I have the BHBE as well.
You will still want to bypass the WH after you drain it; no point in pressurizing that appliance with air for the blow out.
After you turn on the compressor, you want to go to each faucet and open the cold side and the hot side separately. The way you have it listed now, you have all faucets open while the compressor runs. I don't think it will work that way because you won't be able to build enough pressure in the system to push the water out.
You'll want to begin with the furthest faucet from the city fill (that'd be your kitchen sink) and work your way to the rear of the trailer, one valve at a time. End with the low point drains, and don't forget your toilet, shower and outside shower. I will typically go back and do it one more time just to be sure.
Your low point drain valves are located below the vanity in the bathroom. They are T-valves that you pull up on to open. Careful seating these because they have a tendency to leak.
You will not be able to hook your hose adapter up to the fresh tank fill. That system is not designed to be pressurized, and so the fill is just a vented opening. To drain the fresh tank, I would raise the street side of the trailer a bit using leveling blocks (intentionally out of level with the low side toward the curb-side) and open the "other" low point drains to drain the fresh tank. They are 1/2 turn ball valves below and to the left of the main entry door. Drain this tank and run your water pump dry first thing in the procedure.
Also, you may want to wait until you have blown out your lines to dump your tanks (or leave them open for the process until you go to dump your AF in the p-traps). You'll have a little water in there, which just means you'll need more AF because of some dilution.
Other than those little tweaks, I think you have a pretty good system down.
Check out this video for some reference:
https://youtu.be/m7SB7ho6-c8