Weather sealant protection for 1994 Jay series 1207

[jdlx277]

My new to me 1994 1207 will not have to be stored outside.But I feel it would be a good idea to caulk the roof middle seam and the sides.Also found a small crack in back corner.Where PO must have bumped into something.What would be the best product for this and will.Wetting finger and leveling it in place like you do a widow work?If so do they make a RV caulk that dries clear?

I have checked the underside of the floor.The plywood looks and feels good.But up near the front there is a area that is soft not rotted soft.Just there is no cross member in that area and the floor gives.My fix for that is a jack placed in the middle of that area with a wood block against the floor.Without much pressure applied just enough to act as a support.

Should the bottom of flooring be under coated or have a sealant like Thompsons deck water sealant applied to it?Or does the flooring need to breath?The building that I store it in has a gravel floor and is not heated.Moisture dampness can come up at different times of the year.So I might try to lay down some old carpet under camper to try to keep dampness from getting on bottom of camper.The building is 48x80x16 so no way will I be pouring concrete.

[bankr63]

For your resealing you will probably want to use Dicor sealant. This is the go-to for rubber roofs, but fairly certain they use the same for fiberglass pup tops. It is self-levelling, so no "wet finger" required if used sparingly. Never seen it in clear however (usually white, but I do see it in gray on amazon too).


Hard to say if this would work for a crack. Dicor probably flows a bit too much to do gap coverage, so if the crack is open much it may not work. You might want to use something more like an exterior butyl caulk for that if it is gapped?


I can't see any problem with sealing the wood on the underside of the floor. Both our Jayco's have had the wood coated with a black sealant from the factory. For the soft spot, you might want to consider gluing a cross brace in place for the length of the spot rather than setting up a jack each time, seems like a more permanent solution. If possible you could also attach it through a frame member with a bit of angle iron (bolted or/and welded).


IMO, carpeting would just hold the moisture underneath once wet. Gravel drains pretty quickly once the water abates. Many of us park outdoors year round and worry about water infiltration from snow and rain, but I've never really worried about standing water on the ground.

[Levinehikeski]

Use a tarp instead of the carpet