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Old 01-02-2012, 07:52 PM   #1
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Andersen weight distributing hitch

I just read about this hitch in the Feb. issue of TL. It took me a few minutes to figure out how it worked . Watch the promo they have on YouTube and tell me what you think. Sorry I don't have the link but if you google it you will see their hitch which uses tension on a chain instead of spring bars . The hitch ball is unique because it is tapered at the lower end. The tapered end is covered with a friction material that acts like a brake. The chains attach to a triangular plate that in turn attaches to the bottom end of the hitch ball, acting like a yoke and providing the weight distribution .This hitch is quite ingenious. Sorry if this is confusing but you really have to see it to appreciate it. I don't know if this would tow better than a regular set up but I think the time putting tension on the chains would leave you no further ahead than having spring bars to deal with. I do like the way the rest of the system works and wonder if it would equal the duel cam hp anti sway system.
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Old 01-02-2012, 08:11 PM   #2
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Here is the link to their website.

It looks interesting. It looks lighter and way easier to set up but I have three concerns. One is the friction material under the hitch ball. I wonder how well that will wear. There is a lot of pressure being put on it. Will the warranty cover excessive wear on the friction material and the mating hitch components? The urethane pucks are also a concern. Suspension components that use something similar have has reports of the pucks weathering. The one that really bothers me having the brackets for the pucks clamped to the frame. One hitch brand that uses similar clamps has had problems with them shifting. This hitch puts even more stress on the clamps.

I would have to hear from people who have actually used one for several years before judging it. Until then, the jury is out for me.
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Old 01-04-2012, 02:54 PM   #3
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More info on hitch

Richard,

Thank you for contacting us in regards to our Weight Distribution Hitch. *I will go question by question and feel free to call at any time if any of the answers confuse you.

How many sold? For competitive reasons in the towing industry we will not release ''hard" numbers, but we sell some every day.

Reviews? We have not received a written review from any customers. *We do receive great verbal reviews at shows and over the phone.

Warranty covers and not covers? The warranty covers the product for functionality but will not cover any rust as most of this is made with plated and powder-coated steel that will rust. *Urethane springs, polyethelene friction pad, etc. are all covered under the warranty to be replaced for life to the original owner.

Will brake pad need replaced, and if so how much? The limited lifetime warranty covers the friction pad that is placed in between the ball combo and the ball housing, which means it will be replaced for free and we pay the shipping on all warranty items.

If I buy it and do not like it can I return it? As of right now we are running a 'try before you buy' program which will give you a 45 day trial period. *You simply place the order with a credit card on file that will be billed on the 45th day if you have not gone through the proper chain of returning the product to us.

*The Urethane spring is common to see in agriculture implements. *

US/CAN Price discrepancy....I know shipping is a part of the equation, as all of our products are free shipping, but I will need to talk to the powers to be on why so much more for Canadian Pricing over US.

--
Dave Anderson|*
Andersen
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Old 01-04-2012, 03:41 PM   #4
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One thing`s for sure, its different then anything I`ve seen before! I`m still trying to figure out the concept, but I`m a bit slow with new things.....
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Old 01-04-2012, 03:49 PM   #5
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At first glance I question it's ability to provide the required forces through a TV's receiver to transfer back the same weight removed from the TV's front axle..., especially with the heavier tongue weights. As far as sway control, I still see the ability for possible coupler-over-ball movement.

I need to noodle over this one for awhile.

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Old 01-04-2012, 06:28 PM   #6
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It's not that hard to figure out (it's one heck of a lot simpler than the Hensley; I still haven't sorted that one out although there is no doubt it works well). The urethane pucks (springs) provide the weight distribution same as spring bars. When the trailer tongue tries to push down on the hitch ball, it tries to tighten the chains. The urethane springs resist that motion without being a rigid connection (a good thing). By effectively transferring some of the tongue weight to the front wheels of the tow vehicle, sway is less likely to occur. An example how that prevents sway is if you ever have driven a vehicle that has so much weight in the back (like a pickup with too much weight at the back of the bed behind the axle), the front rides high. Without enough weight on the front end, it feels like you are driving on ice and it is hard to keep the vehicle going where you want it to, especially at higher speeds (don't ask how I know this).

Also, as the trailer turns, one of the chains will transfer more force to the urethane springs (while trying to turn the ball), causing further resistance to the turn which adds to sway control. The action here is similar to the dual cam action of the Reese Dual Cam hitch.

Further sway control comes from the brake media between the hitch ball shank and the drawbar. The hitch ball and shank are one piece that is tied to the triangular piece the chains attach to. This forces the ball and shank to rotate with the trailer tongue (which also explains why they can claim it is no longer necessary to grease the ball although there still will be a small bit of movement; I would grease it anyway using a light layer). Since the ball shank is tapered, fitting into a tapered socket with friction material (think brake pad or shoe lining), any weight pushing down on the ball increases the amount of friction, resisting turning. Turning can still occur but the resistance damps any swaying. The effect is the same as friction type swaybars.

The theory looks good. At my age, I especially like the idea of less weight although the Reese Dual Cam, once set up, looks like it would still be easier to hitch up (other than the weight) since, as long as the weight distribution of the tow vehicle and the trailer do not change, the previous adjustments would still hold. I'm still concerned how well the friction material between the hitch ball shank and its socket will hold up with the weight of the tongue wedging it between the shank and socket. that is a lot of pressure. I'm also concerned with how well the urethane springs hold up in weather. MorRyde and Dexter (yeah, I know, now Lippert) both use similar springs in their axle equalizers and have had problems with them failing due to weathering. Even though the Andersen urethane springs are guaranteed for life, that doesn't do you much good when you are bombing down the road in the middle of nowhere (btw, there is a Nowhere, AZ; it's well named) on Friday evening of a three day holiday weekend and a spring fails (having spares on hand would help). I'm still concerned how well the clamps that anchors the urethane spring attachments will stay put. The Reese Dual Cam both clamps and bolts their mounts to ensure they stay put. The Equalizer Four Point uses a similar clamp that receives less horizontal forces against it and there have been numerous reports of it shifting when in use. Only time can tell if these concerns are valid so, being from Missouri (seriously, I am), I would want to see reports from people who have used this hitch over a long period before choosing it over one with a proven track record, like the Reese Dual Cam. I am going to be watching this because, if it holds up over time, it could be better for me than the Reese Dual Cam (mostly because of the reduced weight; old age stinks!).
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:40 PM   #7
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OMH --- Over My Head. Let me know how this one turns out.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:07 AM   #8
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OMH --- Over My Head. Let me know how this one turns out.
Way over my head also. I'd have to see to belive.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:26 AM   #9
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I just read about this hitch in the Feb. issue of TL. It took me a few minutes to figure out how it worked . Watch the promo they have on YouTube and tell me what you think. Sorry I don't have the link but if you google it you will see their hitch which uses tension on a chain instead of spring bars . The hitch ball is unique because it is tapered at the lower end. The tapered end is covered with a friction material that acts like a brake. The chains attach to a triangular plate that in turn attaches to the bottom end of the hitch ball, acting like a yoke and providing the weight distribution .This hitch is quite ingenious. Sorry if this is confusing but you really have to see it to appreciate it. I don't know if this would tow better than a regular set up but I think the time putting tension on the chains would leave you no further ahead than having spring bars to deal with. I do like the way the rest of the system works and wonder if it would equal the duel cam hp anti sway system.
Wow nice find let us know how it works at only $499 Retail and can handle up 14,400lbs
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:01 PM   #10
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Thanks for the feedback. Just a few thoughts about this hitch. The urethane springs are welded to the bars attached to the trailer frame. The friction on the ball is proportional to the tongue weight of the trailer. It is the tension on the chains that provide the weight distribution. The tension would have to be added and removed each time trailer is hitched up and then unhitched. Like the dual cam system the more the trailer is out of true the more force is applied to bring the trailer back into a straight line. This cannot be said of most other trailer hitches.
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:17 PM   #11
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Here is how the Hensley hitch works thanks to Lego.

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Old 01-06-2012, 12:40 AM   #12
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This is another video from Sema, second topic in video. Just found this which confirms my theory how this thing works.

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Old 01-06-2012, 07:18 AM   #13
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Here is how the Hensley hitch works thanks to Lego.

Interesting. The demo doesn't really show how it works, only that it does, something that has been well established by numerous reports from those who have already used it. Again, being from Missouri, the demo leaves me a bit skeptical about its validity, especially since it is possible the demonstrator could have applied different torque on the trailer for each demo unit. Also, the demo was on static models, not ones moving down the road when sway occurs. Pity I'm not into legos. It wouldn't be hard to replicate the demo. Maybe someday when I don't have something better to do.

The only complaints I've seen about the Hensley-Arrows are the expense (yowch!), and the paint job not holding up and wear on some of the internal components (although they are replaceable). Components and paint can be replaced but it is a chore. A major concern for me (other than price and maintenance) would be the weight; not because I would have to deal with it everytime I hitched up or disconnected (not having to deal with much weight when hitching up or disconnecting is one of the plusses of the hitch) but because the extra weight of the hitch gets added to the tongue weight.

ProPride makes a similar hitch that is slightly less painful to purchase (you have to hold up only two banks instead of three) and seems to be getting better reports on the paint issue.
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:20 AM   #14
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It looks like it will be a great product, but I have a few concerns as well. I have an Equal-i-zer and like most others with it, I have had issues with the brackets on the tongue shifting due to continued use. The Equail-i-zer brackets are only supposed to weight-supporting and provided some friction. The Anderson hitch sure would be putting a lot of pressure on those brackets, and not downward pressure, it would be constantly trying to pull the bracket forward. I'd think the brackets would need to be welded or cross-bolted through the frame to prvenet them from slipping forward.

Also, does the owner have to adjust the hitch with a socket every time they hook up and disconnect? I'm sure you'd get used to it, but the thought of having a dedicated socket and rachet on hand at all times is a pain. I assume it would also lend itself to subtle differences each and every time you hook up. I'm sure you could mark the threads or something but could you really get it dead on every time? One benefit though is if your load changes, you can easily adjust it for each trip.
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:44 AM   #15
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This is another video from Sema, second topic in video. Just found this which confirms my theory how this thing works.

Now that was an interesting video. The demo Mr. Anderson gave went a long way to show how easy it would be to unhitch although I wonder how tricky it would be to put the plate the chains anchor to back in place when rehitching. I was concerned about backing off the adjustment on the chains but I wonder if jacking the tongue high enough would make that unnecessary, same as some people have reported doing so on conventional hitches to avoid having to use a cheater to release the latches on the spring bar chains. I'm definitely going to be watching for reports from people who have actually used it.

The really interesting part of the video was the alternate fiver hitch. That would have taken care of one of the four reasons I don't want a fiver (the others being I wouldn't be able to keep my shell, the increased weight, both "tongue" and overall, and the steps inside the fiver): the massive hitch hogging space in the bed of the tow vehicle. Being lighter, the part in the bed would be easier to remove although at seventy pounds, it is still too heavy for me (I wonder if one could use the front of the fiver to hoist it up enough to drive out from under it then lower it to the ground, then drag it under the trailer). For someone as healthy as Mr. Anderson that would be huge, though. I also found the ease that the bed could be made flat again to also be impressive although I would be concerned that dust from carrying a load or few of dirt could jam the inverted ball in its socket (some duct tape could prevent that). I also wonder how drop in and, especially, spray in bed liners would hold up to the pressure of the frame when hitched up. This Missouri born, old broad would have to see some reports from actual users to pass final judgement but it appears this hitch as all the avantages of a gooseneck conversion without the potentially catastrophic stress on the pinbox and frame those conversions are plagued with.
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:14 PM   #16
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I just received a instruction Manuel and some answers to more questions that we had about this WDH. I'm not able to copy over the PDF for some reason , but if your interested in more info I will be glad to forward it to you if you send me a email address. If you would rather contact the company yourself, they are pretty quick with a reply. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-10-2012, 09:31 AM   #17
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The hitch looks like it is a unique design of the WD friction hitch that would make it easier to back without disconnecting.

My question after seeing the video would be the ball friction and how it fits into the containment? I have Blue Ox gooseneck ball that pulls out and flips over. Moisture, dirt and rust in and around the ball and containment continually causes problems when I am trying to remove the ball. Once the side of the ball becomes scratched, scarred and marred I wonder if it would operate as smoothly as it does on a new hitch? I just spent several hours trying to get my Blue Ox gooseneck ball out of its containment that is similar except it quarter turns and releases. It is an interesting new concept though.
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Old 01-11-2012, 08:48 PM   #18
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Richard,

Thanks for forwarding the Anderson WDH Installation Manual.



After reading the manual, IMO this is one of those products that I have to see up-close and installed on a TV/TT, rather than even attempt to breakdown how the physics works and effectiveness of the product under variable TV/TT combinations plus weight considerations.

I'm really interested in seeing the effect of the forced "leveraging" at the tension plate and the collar welded to it, as well as the three associated connecting pins. I also question the ability of the two set screws of holding the frame brackets in place (eliminate movement), and only a single set screw on a "C" channel TT A-frame.

I hope I get an opportunity to see one of these in action this summer, thus taking some of the speculation out of my thinking.

Bob
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:08 PM   #19
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Mine as well buy one Bob and do some real world testing for us. If it works, you`ll have a lighter WD and sway system, and a spare. If not, well, hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. You`ll have an interesting report for us anyway.
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Old 01-11-2012, 09:37 PM   #20
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Mine as well buy one Bob and do some real world testing for us.....snip
Lee,

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