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Old 04-21-2011, 09:02 AM   #1
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RV Wiring diagram (white board diagram).

.

Recently, I've been seeing a few questions about 110/120V and 12V wiring questions. "What powers what and how a `customized` Power Converter can be installed?" type questions. With shared info from their many replies, I created a little diagram. Some folks (like me) understand white board diagrams much better then text words. Hopefully, the below diagram helps others as well.

Also: If below diagram can be improved (or corrected), please send me a PM (Private MSG). I'll update my MASTER with needed corrections / improvements and with Forum's Admin's help, update this thread.

thanks.

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Old 01-06-2014, 08:54 PM   #2
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Spike,
Could you tell me about the wires that I see coming from where the thermostat is? I have 2 red (1 thick, 1 thin), 2 white (1 thick, 1 thin) a green and a blue. I wasn't smart enough to take a pic of the wiring before I disconnected things. Now I'm all messed up and I need help. I need to know which is which, please.

Thanks so much!

Lisa
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Old 02-26-2014, 12:35 PM   #3
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RV wiring diagram / whitboard diagram

YOU ARE THE MAN! This is beautiful! I have spent days, hours reading blogs and asking questions trying to figure out what is happening to my power or lack of. This is very inderstandable for us newbees.

All of this stems from when I disconnected from campground pwr. and lost all 12v supply. I checked batt. connections and fuses,
underframe grounds. (batt. was 12.6v). After a stop on the way home I had all my 12v power back. After arriving home, again I didn't have 12v power. I plugged in 110v from the house and had all services. Unplugged house power and still no 12v pwr.

Dropped RV off a service center the next morning. After a tech heard my writeup he said "its your converter, bring it around back."
He couldn't get the two fuses out and said they were melted in place and I had know 12v power coming out. I OK'ed the changout of the 45 amp converter and told him that I would like the old unit when I returned.

I came by two days later and was presented a bill for $378.00. I had to ask for the old converted and it took about 10 min. to bring it up frount. Hooked up the RV. Noticed inside that both outside and inside light switches were ON, but no lights. Tried to start the fridge but no lightoff, again no 12v service. I checked batt. voltage, it indicated 12.6v.

Brought tech out and he pulled batt. cover and found voltage OK. He them tugged on batt. cables and one came off the battery.
He then crimped on a new lead and now every thing works great. I ask him about the converter changout and he said it was bad anyway.

After a few days of research and talking to the converter manafacturer, I decided to plug in the converter. No power on the output terminals. I opened the lid on top and everything looked brand new. No dust, no smell, just new looking. However I did notice one of the two heavy wires going onto terminal blades was pulled off and hanging free. I pushed it back on and checked the other one.
They were both on tight and now hard to pull off. I plugged the unit back in and now it is putting out 13.6v as advertised. Also there were no fuses melted in place but they were hade to remove for inspection.

What would be you take on this? Jaycoman
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Old 02-26-2014, 02:09 PM   #4
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rvwink, I must admit when I started reading your post and stated everything worked when plugged into shore power and then stated the tech said your converter was bad my first thought was "That tech just screwed him over". After reading the entire post I was convinced I was right.

If it were me I would give him ONE chance to make this right. If he doesn't then file a complaint with the BBB (Better Business Bureau). Come back here and post who this dealer/RV facility was so others may be warned of his incompetence.

On an additional note, the diagram shows the tongue jack wired to the converter. It is not done that way. The jack is wired directly to the battery. I submitted the correction to him but he has not corrected the diagram.
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Old 03-08-2014, 06:52 PM   #5
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Spike99, or other knowledgeable members, I'm wondering about the distribution route of the 12VDC. Does DC power from the converter route up to the battery disconnect switch first, then back to the fused distribution center ?

In my old TT, I did not have a disconnect switch so I'm unfamiliar with the layout.

Today, while working up front in the new FW, I turned off the battery switch, and all DC devices in the FW shut down, even though I still had shore power up.

Kinda of a Master kill switch?
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:21 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmooney View Post
Spike99, or other knowledgeable members, I'm wondering about the distribution route of the 12VDC. Does DC power from the converter route up to the battery disconnect switch first, then back to the fused distribution center ?

In my old TT, I did not have a disconnect switch so I'm unfamiliar with the layout.

Today, while working up front in the new FW, I turned off the battery switch, and all DC devices in the FW shut down, even though I still had shore power up.

Kinda of a Master kill switch?
The 12VDC goes from the TT's battery charge converter/controller (120VAC powered) to the 12VDC distribution panel. The battery feeds back to the distribution panel.

The battery switch goes between the battery and the inline fuse by the battery(s). The fuse goes between the switch and the 12VDC distribution center. Not sure why you lost 12VDC power when you did.

- Check to see if your 120VAC breaker that feeds the controller may have tripped.
- Check the main 12VDC fuse from the controller.
- With the battery disconnected see if you get 12VDC at the controller
Don
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spike99 View Post
.

Also: If below diagram can be improved (or corrected), please send me a PM (Private MSG). I'll update my MASTER with needed corrections / improvements and with Forum's Admin's help, update this thread.

thanks.

Spike - Are you the owner of this DIAGRAM. I really like this drawing... I have been pointing to this drawing for years and have even discussed changes with the owner. Don't know if that was you I was talking too or not. The owner did come up with an alternate drawing which I didn't like as well as this one so never did much with it.

This drawing you are referring to here has been in circulation for years on the GOOGLE IMAGES... At least three years for me referring to it...

I probably should go back in my responses and get the owners real name... Seems like it was a corporation that originally distributed this drawing.
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Old 12-08-2014, 12:21 PM   #8
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My problem with this drawing is that it shows a direct connection to the battery from shore power. This would put 30 amps of uncontrolled charge on the house battery whenever plugged into shore power. Though I have not had the time to do a full rundown on my Litehawk 24RK, a cursory inspection indicated no 12V power at the battery terminals when plugged into shore power though all the house 12V works fine (battery removed). I'm thinking there are a set of diodes or a disconnect switch that I haven't found. Where I'm parked, I have no 120 volts available so I'm installing a 30 watt solar panel with controller. I'm hoping I can plug it directly into the vehicle power cord that normally hooks up to the truck while towing.
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Old 06-20-2016, 08:43 AM   #9
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2017 Redhawk

My TV is wired through the Air Conditioner circuit breaker and my inverter only powers the attic fan function of the air conditioner. Anyone out there have a suggestion as to why this is?
TV works fine on shore power and generator, but outlet is dead when inverter only is available. ( No, I didn't mess with the safety ignition interlock. ) Thinking someone had a bad day at the plant. Your thoughts out there?
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Old 06-20-2016, 11:26 AM   #10
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The other thing this diagram is missing is the Transfer Switch, which comes into play when you plug into shore power.
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Old 08-05-2016, 08:22 AM   #11
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Missing link

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spike99 View Post
.

Recently, I've been seeing a few questions about 110/120V and 12V wiring questions. "What powers what and how a `customized` Power Converter can be installed?" type questions. With shared info from their many replies, I created a little diagram. Some folks (like me) understand white board diagrams much better then text words. Hopefully, the below diagram helps others as well.

Also: If below diagram can be improved (or corrected), please send me a PM (Private MSG). I'll update my MASTER with needed corrections / improvements and with Forum's Admin's help, update this thread.

thanks.

So Spike, where is the link or picture for your drawing located? I would love to view it. Thanks ....... Swampy
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Old 04-12-2017, 08:10 AM   #12
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Battery Disconnect Switch Problem

Just purchased a 2007 Melbourne and have a problem:


When filling up propane I hit the battery disconnect rocker switch so that no power was on while filling. When we got to new site...nothing came on but the plugs, convection oven, TV....when I would hold the disconnect switch on all the power would come on, so I thought the switch was bad, not realizing it was a rocker type and didn't click on and off. Went to auto parts store and got a on & off switch (not rocker type) it worked and all power came on. Next day went off again except plugs, tv, confection oven....went and got a rocker type switch...still no power....repair guy came and everywhere showed power including solenoid near battery and the converter....only place no power was at the switch....so we assume there is a disconnect between switch and battery and it is locked in disconnect mode for battery power. When generator is on the same only plug power. No battery power, but 120 from power pole. So we don't know where else to check, etc. Any suggestions would be helpful.
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Old 07-13-2017, 09:04 AM   #13
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Am I missing something? I do not see a link for the wiring diagram. Has it been removed since the original post?
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Old 07-13-2017, 09:33 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Frank&Joy View Post
Am I missing something? I do not see a link for the wiring diagram. Has it been removed since the original post?
Read this link It may explain why you can't get the wiring diagram link


http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f1...tml#post539734
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Old 11-21-2018, 03:13 PM   #15
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12volt plug

I am new at this so.... Is there a 12volt plug somewhere in a 2018 White Hawk 23' TT? Dealer said there was one behind the TV but it was not a plugin (cig lighter plug). I am looking to put a small 300watt inverter in and it has a cig lighter type plug. Any thoughts?
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Old 05-13-2019, 02:39 PM   #16
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so based on the original diagram, the batteries are recharged by 1) shore power via the DC converter (into/out of the distro panel), 2) trickle charged by the tow vehicle, and 3) solar, correct?

And none of the 110 outlets are hot unless 1) plugged into shore power, 2) on generator, or 3) if an inverter is installed and drawing batt power, correct?

Also, if the batts are dead but connected, and the camper is connected to the tow vehicle, then power to the camper is possible because tow vehicle power is being channeled through the batts and into the camper...and that is only possible if the batts are connected to the camper per normal - IOW if the batts removed...and the camper was connected to the tow vehicle...then the camper would not have any power from the tow vehicle because the batts are not 'in the loop', correct?
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Old 12-02-2019, 04:28 PM   #17
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I am in the middle of replacing the smaller WF panel/converter with a WF-8930/50 and a Progressive Dynamics PD-9280 converter. All is OK except I have a few 12VDC wires that do not appear to go to fuses. After much thought, they must be the external trailer/camper wires like running lights, backup camera, brakes, etc. that the in-line CB under the trailer frame at the tongue. I upgraded all of the devices on the tongue already. I removed the 4x4 handy box with water-tight trailer 7-way terminal box w/ breakers. There was an in-line CB that is now gone.

Did that in-line CB feed the exterior trailer devices that seem to route through the electrical panel area? Make sense? Some please educate me on what Jayco intended.

BTW, I upgraded to include an AIMS Inverter, solar panels and other misc features. I designed a 300lb 100% extending drawer-type electrical panel area that ;lives in the large storage area next to the tongue. It's work well so far. It allows me to pull all of the electrics out to service, etc.

Advice on the 12VDC branch circuits and trailer wiring needed. Any drawings out there?

Thanks,

Billy
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Old 03-21-2020, 12:36 PM   #18
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electrical problems

My 2019 seneca 37K microwave oven will not work as it trips the breaker shutting off both the microwave and the refrigerator. It does this with the residential refrigerator turned on or off. Does anyone know if the refrigerator and microwave should be on separate circuits? Also where can the correct circuit diagram be found for this coach? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-13-2020, 11:48 AM   #19
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You're gonna want that 75a fuse to be the only thing connected directly to the battery - the rest of the wires and fuses can go through it. Also, size the fuses based on the max capacity of the wire you're using. And size the wires based on the amperage that circuit will run as well as the voltage drop from the amps+distance traveled.
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Old 07-13-2020, 01:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrievousAngel View Post
I am in the middle of replacing the smaller WF panel/converter with a WF-8930/50 and a Progressive Dynamics PD-9280 converter. All is OK except I have a few 12VDC wires that do not appear to go to fuses. After much thought, they must be the external trailer/camper wires like running lights, backup camera, brakes, etc. that the in-line CB under the trailer frame at the tongue. I upgraded all of the devices on the tongue already. I removed the 4x4 handy box with water-tight trailer 7-way terminal box w/ breakers. There was an in-line CB that is now gone.

Did that in-line CB feed the exterior trailer devices that seem to route through the electrical panel area?
Make sense? Some please educate me on what Jayco intended.

BTW, I upgraded to include an AIMS Inverter, solar panels and other misc features. I designed a 300lb 100% extending drawer-type electrical panel area that ;lives in the large storage area next to the tongue. It's work well so far. It allows me to pull all of the electrics out to service, etc.

Advice on the 12VDC branch circuits and trailer wiring needed. Any drawings out there?

Thanks,

Billy
You need to put that inline breaker back in place. That is the main fuse protecting the battery and all the 12 volt systems. Without it you might just see your rig go up in smoke.
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