Stabilizer Jacks

[BigJohnD]

I know I'm not the only one who's done modifications to these things. Obviously, the way Jayco frames sit so high, the stabilizer jacks are quite worthless. So, I do have ideas, but want to see what everybody else is doing. Bolting blocks or spacers to the bottom of these maybe? Taking them off and adding a jack more suitable (did on my father in laws jayco). What's the ideas on the street for these things? I've already got homemade cross stabilizers in the making, (think JT strong arms, homemade), but the way these jacks are stock, you better be close to level if you want them to touch the ground.

Any ideas from the shade tree engineers?

[Charolaisbreeder]

Upon arrival at campsite I walk around camper and then tell the wife how many plastic blocks with a flat cap I need at each location. She gets them out of the zipper bag and drops them at each location. This stops the need for going so high on the jacks keeping them more stable and it keeps the jacks from sinking if you are on a wet pad. Prior to buying the plastic units we just used some 2x8 boards cut about 8 inches long but much easier to have the stackable bag of plastic base units and 4 good tops that lock on them. Many manufacturers make these type of units - just find the ones on sale.

As we have some rough road to travel parking our rig on the farm, I bent one jack and had to replace it a few weeks ago. Don't want them dropped any lower when in travel position!!!

In addition we found a set of the Xchocks that go between the tires stabilized our unit from doing a lot of shifting and swaying when you walk through it. NOTE: These are used in addition to normal wheel chocks, they do not replace the safety chocks at front and back of wheels to prevent rolling.

[ALJO]

Your right on the ball Charolaisbreeder.
For stabilization; First of all take the bottom play out the (power) jack. Some have play and need a bushing around the jack. Like Charolaisbreeder said: Xchock locks the wheel movement (for safety you still have to use chocks behind the wheel.
Under each (stock flimsy) stabilizer jacks put a 8x6x6 block or what ever you prefer. Just keep things simple. And yes it just goes a bit faster with a drill and socket.....but then you have to watch for a dead battery.
Yes it takes a bit effort to set up camp but that's the fun of camping.
When camping in outer space we don't need all that......we just have to watch debris hitting our camper. A perfect world has perfect people..........none of us are perfect!

[arkhillbilly]

Suggest you kill two birds with one stone. Accordingly, it takes about four inches of wood to protect the jacks from being grounded from lighting. Then all you must be concerned with is the power cable on the ground.

[norty1]

Here is what I made for my rear stabilizers to keep from having to extend them down. I can turn then sideways or on end. They are two 6 in pieces of manufactured floor joists from a contractors scrap pile. I screwed them together side to side and painted them. (They need a new coat).
I have used them for many years.

[BigJohnD]

On the solid legos, I probably got 50-60 or those things, and have had x-chocks since they invented them (the first version). What I've seen, and hoped to see another version here, was something along the lines of what norty has, except permanently mounted to the base of the jack. The ones I saw were 4" or so. We use the Andersen levelers for side to side, and was trying to get away from carrying 24 plus legos. With the camper sitting level in the garage as in the picture, 6 legos per corner is a good average. Not sure if there is an answer, but I never accept what's on the market very well, without thinking, staring, and wondering how I can make it easier, better, and make more common sense. Bad thing is, they don't make a scissor stabilizer for that frame height, but they DO make the other style stabilizers for a 30" plus ground clearance frame. This is what I did to the father in laws. Installed the stabilizers for the taller frame height. So, why in the crap would you use something that's out of it's range on level ground to start with?

[robkelly]

I add lego blocks at each corner, but also added stabilizer bars at each corner, and they made a world of difference. As others have noted, I'd be hesitant to add something to the bottom of the jack for fear of it hitting the ground and causing more damage.

[Big Sky]

I have considered adding a permanent block to the base of the jacks. The problem I would have here in adding any length to the base of the jacks is the potential to bend them on low clearance areas. I too, like Charolaisbreeder, have inadvertently bent a jack just from having it down a few more inches than 100% up. I guess if the terrain you camp in is always level, and paved, that would be a different story. I now carry 6x6 wood blocks and some 4x4 as well. I'm not always in a spot where we can put more than a 2x4 under the foot, it's just not enough clearance. We always like something under foot. Best of luck, curious as to what you come up with.

[ALJO]

Why they have those (flimsy) stabilizer jacks a foot from the bumper beats me? From an engineering point off view they can be at least 3 ft. from the back and front. Now they are easy to knock of under certain conditions. All they are is what the name says; stabilizers. First of all we have a jack on the front, thus the front ones go easy 4 ft in. For units over 30 ft myself I would put 6 on and have the one's close to the axle heavy duty.

[Big Sky]

Originally Posted by ALJO

Why they have those (flimsy) stabilizer jacks a foot from the bumper beats me? From an engineering point off view they can be at least 3 ft. from the back and front. Now they are easy to knock of under certain conditions. All they are is what the name says; stabilizers. First of all we have a jack on the front, thus the front ones go easy 4 ft in. For units over 30 ft myself I would put 6 on and have the one's close to the axle heavy duty.

Do you have pics of your set up?

[ALJO]

My 198RD I got in late August and we used it for a couple of weeks in 2 separated trips. It is now in storage in my Yard with (already) lots of snow on it. We live at 1138 mtr./ 3732 ft. Have done some mod's and maintenance already to make this TT our own. My family was asking for pic's too, but have to wait till spring. The 198RD pulls nice and easy to maneuver, but I still debating the crawl over queen bed situation. We'll see how that annoys next year.
Used to have a ALJO 5er made at the OR coast with 3 slides. It had lots of problems with the slides (leaks). Many times back to the factory in the first year, it was one of their first with slide outs in the 90's. It also went a bit like a dog on the road till I adjusted the suspension.
Have to wait until Easter before I can take the 198RD out on a trip again. It always is our first trip out in the spring.

[SailandPaddle]

I used scraps of 4X4 cut to be 10" long. Though I like the norty1's answer a lot better.

[qwed94]

Absolutely carry some wood or legos to rest the stab jacks on. I carry some 2X4s some 4X4s and some 6X6s with me just for that reason.

Do not, I say Do Not try to make spacers so they will sit farther off the frame.
1-it might make them not stabilize as well
2-it might make them sit closer enough to the ground that you end up scrapping them and bending them. (I replace bent stabs every week)

[BigJohnD]

Maybe for some, ground clearance is an issue, for us it is not. Keep in mind, we've owned a class A MH, class c MH (VERY low), 2 fifth wheels, a pop up and now 3 bumper pulls. Never have I had the luxury of this much ground clearance that the Jayco has. The class C was the worst, and auto-level up jacks on our 40' fifth wheel was in second place. So, that said, if I had a spacer it would not be an issue in our travels. This Jayco is practically 4x4 height to us. I probably won't add anything, but I have seen it done, and wanted opinions. That I got for sure. Most say don't do it. If I engineer something, I'll be sure to post picutres and accept all criticism well.


In the end, Jayco needs to go with a different jack for a larger clearance frame. They make them, use them dog gonnit.

[rick danger]

I'll have to take a look exactly how they are when I get mine. I wonder if you could make a spacer between the trailer and the top of the jack to lower it, but have the top of the jack attatch to the spacer/lowerer with a hinge so the stabilizer could swing up and store horizontally. Might even get more clearance than the stock settup. Might not have to crank the stab. up all the way either.You would have to figure a way to hold the jack in it's swung up/ stored position. Then again there might be something in the way ,

[Curious by Nature]

I removed the 24" jacks and installed 30" ones. The less blocking I have to carry, the better. The 30" only add 1/2" in depth when retracted, and are rated 1500 lb more than the stock stabilizers.

[BigJohnD]

Curious by Nature, did you go with the scissor type, or a different style? Also, were they BAL or another brand? The stock ones on ours don't say BAL, but they look similar. Curious on the mounting holes or what you bought.


If I were to go with a new set of stabilizers, it'd probably be the BAL 30930, which are the 30", but not scissor type. I put the lower profile version of those on my FIL's Swift, which sits low to start with. Still undecided. It's low on the priority list, but always thinking, brainstorming and doing homework way ahead of time.

[Curious by Nature]

This is what I ordered. They are the scissor type, I stayed with that type because of easy, quick setup and didn't want to lose rear clearance when towing. I haven't mounted them yet, winter arrived before the jacks did.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...ack-pair/71251

[Curious by Nature]

Winter is finally over, got to installing the 30" jacks last weekend. Fairly easy, just transfered the top brackets from the originals to the 30", and bolted them back on. Video here:
https://youtu.be/RIQ1OiWcXck

[BigJohnD]

Thank you for that follow up. I never thought about swapping the top piece out to make those work.