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12-04-2014, 08:25 AM
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#61
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Florien, LA
Posts: 1,872
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Curious how easy the underbelly is to remove where the fresh water tanks are? I've removed several, but not this one. We have yet to put any water in the tanks, but I already know I want to isolate one of them. Hoping the gauge is on the same tank as the suction. I hate this design already.
__________________
John and Rebecca Dickson
Emma-13 / Little John-10 / Iva-7
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat FX4, CC LB PSD, DRW
2015 Jayco Jay Flight 28BHBE (#8)
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12-04-2014, 10:40 AM
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#62
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Fort Wayne
Posts: 1,271
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Well the section i removed i had to take the 5/16 screws out that were along the edge and remove the screws on the lp blocks to pull them down then just started working the corrugated out of the channel and pulled it down enough to get to what i needed to
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12-04-2014, 10:41 AM
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#63
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Fort Wayne
Posts: 1,271
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Hard to isolate because the back one is hooked to the Guage front one is the fill ... cause i thought. About that
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12-04-2014, 10:44 AM
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#64
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Florien, LA
Posts: 1,872
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Which side does the pump pull from? If fill and pump are tied to the same one, I'd be ok as I can deal without the gauge, or always add one.
__________________
John and Rebecca Dickson
Emma-13 / Little John-10 / Iva-7
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat FX4, CC LB PSD, DRW
2015 Jayco Jay Flight 28BHBE (#8)
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12-04-2014, 11:49 AM
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#65
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Sparta, TN
Posts: 1,174
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In mine there is a Tee in the line that connects the two tanks which goes to the pump.
I guess since my furnace thread has migrated to the water system I can consider my thread hijacked.
__________________
Chuck - Sparta, TN
2012 Jay Flight 22FB, 2 x Honda EU2000i
2013 GMC Yukon XL Denali AWD
EDUCATION is what you get when you read the fine print.....
EXPERIENCE is what you get when you don't.
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12-04-2014, 01:35 PM
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#66
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Fort Wayne
Posts: 1,271
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On mine the fill is on front tank and the draw is on front tank t fitting the gauge is on. Back tank , i have a 338 rets though yours might be set up different
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12-04-2014, 01:37 PM
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#67
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Fort Wayne
Posts: 1,271
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Yeah sorry tn i had posted originally in a thread i started on water tanks lol
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12-04-2014, 04:59 PM
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#68
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Yakima
Posts: 37
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The discriptions about the setup are pretty consistent. A T fitting for the pump side is not what i would have envisioned. For those of you wanting to isolate a single tank, sensor probes are really easy to install. Cost about 2$-$5 each on eBay. I have no ideah how mine is setup but I do only have one single petcock drain. There are 2 vent hoses poking out too.
When they had my under body open, I notice that they cut the corrugated material for access and then taped it up with that underbelly duct tape on steroids. A guy could probably cut in an access door of sorts just like that. I have no doubt I will be in there shortly. We dry camp deep in the mountains for 5-7 days at a time. The 88gallon capacity was a huge buying point for me. But it would be cool to be able to isolate if it was a short weekend trip. 40 would be plenty for one weekend.
Maybe ditch the T fitting and put a 3 way valve on the pump so when one tank is empty you can manually switch to the other?
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12-04-2014, 09:24 PM
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#69
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Fort Wayne
Posts: 1,271
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well I still have to believe it is a venting problem on the front tank now but once I try that I am out of ideas ... they should equalize they both fill fine now so in theory they should both empty fine too ... the two tank drains both work to empty the tanks
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12-04-2014, 11:39 PM
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#70
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Yakima
Posts: 37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paintinfool3
well I still have to believe it is a venting problem on the front tank now but once I try that I am out of ideas ... they should equalize they both fill fine now so in theory they should both empty fine too ... the two tank drains both work to empty the tanks
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That is perplexing! If they fill fine why not pump fine. It has to be an air problem like you believe. I have not personally dealt with it yet but I actually find this fascinating.
I wonder if since the tubes you end up pumping from are only 1/2" if just the slightest vent pressure imbalance just causes one side to move more water then the other. Ill bet that if there was a secondary low point water tube connecting the two that was say 1" diameter it would solve the equalization problem.
I am seriously thinking about a mod that disconnects the two tanks, adds a second filler flange and makes them independent of each other. Then have a 3 way valve I can turn when one tank is exhausted. Had 74 F250 with that kind of setup for dual gas tanks. Had an electric switch on the dash to switch the gauge from tank to tank. The valve was behind the seat on the floor.
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12-04-2014, 11:46 PM
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#71
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Yakima
Posts: 37
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It just occurred to me that if there is only one water connection between the two and it is only 1/2" and has a t in it. There would be a slight vacuum from the line going to the pump after it has been primed. That slight vacuum is likely enough to cause a Venturi effect in the T to prevent the movement of fluid between the two tanks. And if that T is closer to one tank then the other it would draw more from one then the other.
I could be way off base, because I'm not sure it it was said weather or not there are more than one water line between the two tanks. And I am sure there are some highly skilled engineers that tested the design, but it sound possible to me.
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12-24-2014, 12:18 PM
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#72
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Fort Wayne
Posts: 1,271
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nope just one ... one t in rear connected via 1/2 pex from a t on front ... pump line comes off front t
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