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12-12-2014, 10:28 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 9
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best way to "finalize" my stabilizers?
Hey all, I'm new here, and this site has been so helpful. Thanks to you all.
I have recently upgraded from a 2009 Coleman/ Fleetwood SeaPine pop up camper to a 2010 Jayco Jay Flight 29rls G2. We love it!
I have a drill with the stab attachment to crank the stabs down, but once I'm down, the drill tops out and I have to just twist the drill to get that extra turn. I feel like it's bad on my drill, so I've tried the 3 foot long hand crank for that final full turn. The crank has horrible leverage, and it is definitely straining/ starting to bend when I do this.
What do you all use for that final turn on your stabs?
Thanks, Josh
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12-12-2014, 10:33 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: MD
Posts: 3,856
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I use a 3/8 ratchet wrench from start to finish...
__________________
2017 JayFlight 28BHBE
2014 JayFlight Swift 264BH (Sold)
2007 GMC 2500 Sierra Classic Crew Cab LBZ Duramax / 6spd Allison
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12-12-2014, 10:37 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 9
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I knew it would be that easy and I was missing something! A ratchet wrench! Perfect!
Thanks! BTW, a drill is soo much easier and FAST for the first part. Why don't' you use that? Try it! BANG!
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12-12-2014, 10:40 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 9
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I am sure I can figure it out, but while I am letting my fingers do the walking, what size is used for the head on the stab? Anyone know without getting up?
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12-12-2014, 10:42 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Near St Louis
Posts: 474
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3/4" I'm pretty sure.
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12-13-2014, 06:15 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: oneonta ny
Posts: 534
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Not sure if you need one for other things, but maybe an impact style gun might work better.
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12-13-2014, 07:55 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Fuquay-Varina
Posts: 437
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Yes, the standard for the stabs is 3/4". I have the adapter for my drill also. VERY nice! The ratchet wrench that came with my x chocks works for the final twist after the drill is maxed out.
__________________
Steve
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2008 Jay Flight G2 29BHS
2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Z71
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12-13-2014, 08:53 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Lower Alabama (LA)
Posts: 2,010
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Both of my trailers came with something along this line. Once the pad is on the ground I give it an additional 1/2 turn. Am I doing it wrong?
__________________
former 2008 Jayco Eagle 29.5 RLS
former 2014 F250 6.7 4X4, CC LB
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12-13-2014, 09:45 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Dale Hollow Lake Tn/Ky
Posts: 2,525
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Ditto on the cordless drill and finish with the supplied Jayco tool. You don't want to over tork the legs [they are not intended to lift just stabalize] or you risk adding a strain to the frame that will cause doors not to close properly etc. I give them an extra twist with the Jayco tool with maybe a little extra on one side that is still a fraction off level. The morning after set up I check out all corners as TT tends to settle due to soft pad or spring/tires that relax.
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12-14-2014, 05:25 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: WV
Posts: 336
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What are you guys using for drills? MY 18V Craftsman will hit bottom and either yank itself out of my hand without a good hold, or break a wrist if I don't stop shortly after hitting bottom lol.
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12-14-2014, 05:55 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Evans, Ga.
Posts: 325
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I have an 18Volt makita drill. It has a clutch to stop it from ripping it out of my hand. Then like most others I finish it off with the Jayco supplied crank handle
__________________
2016 Ford F-250 Lariat 6.7L V8 Diesel
2013 Jayco Whitehawk 26DSRB
Rick
US Army
VN.71-72
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12-15-2014, 12:46 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 9
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Thanks for all the input. I also have the hand-crank that came with the trailer, but mine is very long so there is very little leverage (to even just do 1 full turn), and it is so flimsy that I swear I am going to twist it.
I think it had 2 in the basement when I got it, so I'll check out the other one to see if it's better design and strength. Otherwise, I'll give a socket handle with a 3/4 socket a try.
Thanks again.
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12-15-2014, 04:02 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Hamilton/Cincinnati
Posts: 264
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I use a Black and Decker 20 volt lithium drill/driver with the 3/4" socket. It is deceiving as it is a small drill with a ton of power.
__________________
2014 Jayflight Swift 264BH
2015 Ford F150 XLT 4x4 SCrew 3.5 EcoBoost Max Tow
Equalizer 10K
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12-15-2014, 07:33 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: central
Posts: 32
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I use a 12 volt cordless drill, and thought that it applied enough torque. It would be interesting to know how much torque is best, and use a torque wrench to get a sense for how much that is.
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12-16-2014, 09:36 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Fraser Valley British Columbia
Posts: 767
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I broke the chuck on my Ryobi drill. I know they aren't the best out there, but don't force it too hard. I wind them down tight and use a ratchet to tighten them down.
__________________
2010 Jayco Eagle Superlite 256 RKS
2008 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins
66 nights in 2016
61 nights in 2015
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12-16-2014, 10:58 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: MD
Posts: 3,856
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best way to "finalize" my stabilizers?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chixdigit
I knew it would be that easy and I was missing something! A ratchet wrench! Perfect!
Thanks! BTW, a drill is soo much easier and FAST for the first part. Why don't' you use that? Try it! BANG!
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I don't need an electric drill as I use 6x6x10 pressure treated lumber under my 6 stabilizers so they never have to come down more than 8" or so. Do u have anything under yours? And in my first post I misspoke when I said 3/8. I use a 1/2 ratchet. I usually let my 6 year old daughter finalize it with the ratchet as she loves to help. If your drill can't, maybe something is wrong with it or the operator. No need for electric here. Maybe when I get older or the kids stop having fun helping....
__________________
2017 JayFlight 28BHBE
2014 JayFlight Swift 264BH (Sold)
2007 GMC 2500 Sierra Classic Crew Cab LBZ Duramax / 6spd Allison
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12-17-2014, 08:20 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 572
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I gave up with the drill. I have 4 pairs of 4"x 4"s; 6, 8 ,12 and 16" long. The least amount you extend your stab jacks the better the stability. I have plenty of 2 x 10 x 12's that can be used for leveling or under the stab jacks and tongue jack as well.
So I leave the drill home and used the crank provided by Jayco for the final inch or two. It also will operate your electric tongue jack if it craps out.
__________________
2012 Toyota Tundra 5.7 Litre DoubleCab
6 speed, 4.30 Limited Slip, Tow Package
2013 Jayco White Hawk 27DSRL
2010 Jayco JayFlight 26BH sold
Yamaha EF2000is Generators (2)
1996 Honda CB750 Nighthawk
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12-17-2014, 09:02 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 974
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Stabilizers should touch the ground and remove all the slack in the mechanism, done. The rear ones especially are in the wrong place on the frame to use as jacks unless you want your frame bent for some reason.
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No man has a good enough memory to be a successful liar. Abraham Lincoln
2016 36FBTS Pinnacle
2016 F350, 6.7, 4x4, DRW, long bed
B & W Companion 5th wheel Hitch
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12-17-2014, 09:31 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Arizona City
Posts: 10,165
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I use a 3/4 inch breaker bar with a 3/4 socket to finish up the last bit. works good
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2018 Jayco Jayfeather 27 RL, 2002 Ford excursion, v-10, 3:73 gears 4x4 mine. 2020 Buick Encore Hers, Retired Air Force, now Retired.
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12-18-2014, 08:31 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Vienna
Posts: 2,044
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__________________
Joe Hinson
2010 Jayco Quest G2(SOLD)
2014 Jayco Eagle 33.5RETS
2007 Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins(SOLD)
2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 4WD
:)
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