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12-20-2014, 02:38 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Auburn, AL
Posts: 53
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Battery disconnect switch
I have a new Whitehawk 27DSRL with TWO batteries and want to install a battery disconnect switch. Is there any reason to get the 4 position switch to enable disconnecting battery 1, battery 2, or both? Or just get the 2 position switch to disconnect both batteries at once?
Next question: Blue Sea or Perko or other; which is better?
Does it matter if you place it in the positive or negative line?
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12-21-2014, 09:58 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,643
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I have a somewhat simpler system than cbss, but it works for me. I have three Group 27 12 volt batteries; my system treats them as all one battery - that is, they are all discharged at the same time and all charged at the same time.
I chose to put my battery disconnect (which is a simple on/off switch) on the positive wire that feeds my interior 12 volt system (lights, pump, heater, slide out, propane leak detector, etc.); items which do not go through this distribution system are the front landing legs, the rear electric jack, and the emergency disconnect trailer brakes. So, the interior power consumers are disconnected, but my trailer disconnect brake and the exterior jacks are still connected.
However you choose to connect your system, to be legal (and safer) your emergency disconnect brake system should remain without a switch - that is, it is always connected.
My switch is a Blue Sea switch similar to this one, which had been faultless; I can't comment on the quality of other brands because I just don't know.
__________________
There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.
2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2021 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch
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12-21-2014, 10:26 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL area
Posts: 5,196
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For BEST battery results, longest battery life and ease of operation, leave both batteries wired in parallel and put the battery disconnect switch on the lead feeding the TT from the batteries. This guarantees that BOTH batteries will be charged properly and the Amp hrs are doubled (2 batteries) so there is less of a discharge across the 2 batteries. Once you start using only one at a time there is a good chance that one or both batteries will not receive a full charge and will eventually degrade the battery(s). The TT's battery charge controller on the newer models will easily handle the needed amps.
As for the type of switch... if you are planning on adding additional batteries in the future, I would go with the 2 battery switch, which would allow for more control over multiple battery banks. For your current setup, I would leave the batteries wired in parallel and just use one of the battery connections and if you add additional batteries in the future connect them to the second battery connection.
Just my thoughts,
Don
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12-21-2014, 03:52 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Auburn, AL
Posts: 53
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Thanks guys; it looks like Blue Sea 6006m or 9003e will both work; I assume the 6006m with 300A will suffice for my needs? The Perko is about $20 more than the 6006m; so I'm thinking of going with the smaller 6006m. Any reason to get the larger Blue Sea model? or the Perko?
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12-21-2014, 05:07 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Hartford
Posts: 2,619
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[QUOTE=Mustang65;256529]For BEST battery results, longest battery life and ease of operation, leave both batteries wired in parallel and put the battery disconnect switch on the lead feeding the TT from the batteries. This guarantees that BOTH batteries will be charged properly and the Amp hrs are doubled (2 batteries) so there is less of a discharge across the 2 batteries. Once you start using only one at a time there is a good chance that one or both batteries will not receive a full charge and will eventually degrade the battery(s). The TT's battery charge controller on the newer models will easily handle the needed amps.
As for the type of switch... if you are planning on adding additional batteries in the future, I would go with the 2 battery switch, which would allow for more control over multiple battery banks. For your current setup, I would leave the batteries wired in parallel and just use one of the battery connections and if you add additional batteries in the future connect them to the second battery connection.
Just my thoughts,
Ok! I don"t understand why you need a disconnect switch in the first place
What am I missing?
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WHERE EVER YOU GO....THERE YOU ARE
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12-21-2014, 07:06 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardo
Thanks guys; it looks like Blue Sea 6006m or 9003e will both work; I assume the 6006m with 300A will suffice for my needs? The Perko is about $20 more than the 6006m; so I'm thinking of going with the smaller 6006m. Any reason to get the larger Blue Sea model? or the Perko?
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I think either switch would work for you. I wanted to panel mount my switch on the luan paneling where my power center is located. I wanted just the handle part of the switch sticking out and the switch guts behind the panel. It's easier to do that with the 6006m than the 9003e. The 6006m requires a 1/2" or 5/8" hole for the handle to go through the panel. To panel mount the 9003e you need a hole the size of the circular part of the switch, 2 or 3 inches. Either could be easily surface mounted, if that is what you want to do.
Unless you want to switch power to a very large consumer of DC power, like a very large inverter, 300 amps should well cover your need.
__________________
There's lots of advice and information in forums... sometimes it is correct. For example, all of my posts are made by a political appointee who got the job as a reward for contributions to my diesel bill.
2011 Jayco 28.5RLS; 2021 Chevy Duramax; Pullrite Superglide Hitch
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12-21-2014, 09:28 PM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL area
Posts: 5,196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis b
Ok! I don"t understand why you need a disconnect switch in the first place
What am I missing?
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There are many reasons for a main disconnect switch. If you do not have a disconnect switch, the only way to disconnect the batteries is either pull the main 30Amp fuse by the battery box (on most TT's) or disconnect the battery cable at the battery post. The battery post option is not rated to high because while loosening the bolt the voltage spikes up and down and the TT's electronics do not like that.
So, after awhile by removing the main fuse to shut down the power to the TT, the fuse/fuse holder contacts will start to oxidize and make for a bad connection and causes a heated/ hot fuse case.
Why disconnect.
- If you are leaving your TT in storage for a while the electronics in the TT will drain your battery(s) power to 0. Those radios, fridge circuits, CO2 alarms all use power and will kill your battery in a week or 2 (depending on the type of batteries).
- If you need to clean your battery terminals, it is better to remove the TT's load from your batteries.
- Adding new electronic toys.
- If you have SOLAR it is easier to use a disconnect switch to isolate the batteries from the SOLAR battery charger if working on the circuits.
There are more reasons that others can add....
So most people pull the 30 Amp main fuse at the battery, but the better option is to install a disconnect switch at the battery.
Just my thoughts,
Don
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12-21-2014, 09:55 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Lower Alabama (LA)
Posts: 2,010
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The above "Warning" Movie explains something that I recently discovered. My recently purchased 5th had a weak battery. Rather than relying on a single battery I opted to use two in parallel. I purchased two batteries and jumper cables.
One set of jumper cables was fine but the other required some fine adjustments (bending/crimping, etc) to tighten up.
Different size terminals, who woulda thunk?
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former 2008 Jayco Eagle 29.5 RLS
former 2014 F250 6.7 4X4, CC LB
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12-21-2014, 10:04 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Hartford
Posts: 2,619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVhiker
I think either switch would work for you. I wanted to panel mount my switch on the luan paneling where my power center is located. I wanted just the handle part of the switch sticking out and the switch guts behind the panel. It's easier to do that with the 6006m than the 9003e. The 6006m requires a 1/2" or 5/8" hole for the handle to go through the panel. To panel mount the 9003e you need a hole the size of the circular part of the switch, 2 or 3 inches. Either could be easily surface mounted, if that is what you want to do.
Unless you want to switch power to a very large consumer of DC power, like a very large inverter, 300 amps should well cover your need.
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[QUOTE=Mustang65;256625]There are many reasons for a main disconnect switch. If you do not have a disconnect switch, the only way to disconnect the batteries is either pull the main 30Amp fuse by the battery box (on most TT's) or disconnect the battery cable at the battery post. The battery post option is not rated to high because while loosening the bolt the voltage spikes up and down and the TT's electronics do not like that.
So, after awhile by removing the main fuse to shut down the power to the TT, the fuse/fuse holder contacts will start to oxidize and make for a bad connection and causes a heated/ hot fuse case.
Why disconnect.
- If you are leaving your TT in storage for a while the electronics in the TT will drain your battery(s) power to 0. Those radios, fridge circuits, CO2 alarms all use power and will kill your battery in a week or 2 (depending on the type of batteries).
- If you need to clean your battery terminals, it is better to remove the TT's load from your batteries.
- Adding new electronic toys.
- If you have SOLAR it is easier to use a disconnect switch to isolate the batteries from the SOLAR battery charger if working on the circuits.
There are more reasons that others can add....
So most people pull the 30 Amp main fuse at the battery, but the better option is to install a disconnect switch at the battery.
Got It, Thanks for informing me.
__________________
2015 Fi50 3.5 Ecoboost w/tow max
2018 Flagstaff Super Lite 29RKWS
2011 Jayco 28BHS
2005 F150 Platinum/Roush Package
WHERE EVER YOU GO....THERE YOU ARE
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12-23-2014, 02:34 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Auburn, AL
Posts: 53
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Some people say only hook the switch into the negative side; others say positive side. Does that mean it doesn't matter a whole lot which side?
__________________
Eddie & Liz
Auburn, AL
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2015 Jayco Whitehawk 27DSRL
2014 Ford F150 Ecoboost w/MaxTow & HD Payload
Nights camped in 2015 - 65; 2016 - 61
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12-23-2014, 03:34 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 974
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When switches are used to open the battery circuit then you can open either side, positive or negative. When switches are used in branch circuits then you open only the positive side.
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2016 36FBTS Pinnacle
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12-24-2014, 07:16 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Boise
Posts: 201
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Just a thought.
If the switch is connected to the negative side of the battery and a light or something is switched on it won't be on if the battery is switched off, unless there is a short somewhere, anywhere, then the batteries could drain and a potential fire hazard. If the the battery switch is connected to the positive side of the battery then a short somewhere can't happen.
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12-24-2014, 09:55 AM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL area
Posts: 5,196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imnaha.Mansion
Just a thought.
If the switch is connected to the negative side of the battery and a light or something is switched on it won't be on if the battery is switched off, unless there is a short somewhere, anywhere, then the batteries could drain and a potential fire hazard. If the the battery switch is connected to the positive side of the battery then a short somewhere can't happen.
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With the switch on EITHER the Positive or Negative side of the battery(s), DISCONNECTS the battery(s) from the TT circuit, eliminating any chance of short to/from the battery. The only other power source, would be the TT's charge controller which will supply power to the TT, with or without the battery connected.
Just my thoughts,
Don
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12-26-2014, 10:59 AM
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#15
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,844
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The battery disconnect switches I have been looking at have a small battery terminal that will only fit on the negative terminal.
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Moderator
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12-26-2014, 07:05 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 22
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Does anyone know if these switches are rated for outdoor use? I didn't see anything about it in the descriptions.
Thanks!
Pat
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12-29-2014, 11:16 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: North Idaho/Arizona
Posts: 5,446
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In the past I have not had a need for a disconnect switch. Now that we leave our trailer in Az over the summer I can see how a switch can make my life easier. This discussion gave me some ideas.
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2017 Silverado 1500 4x4 5.3 with tow package. (no, we don't tow the Jayco with it.)
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Life in the slow lane is still life.
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12-30-2014, 07:42 AM
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#18
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,844
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The one I used is made by Battery Doctor #20188 -,
http://www.wirthco.com/battery-docto..._132-l-en.html
It states "not approved or intended for Marine use". I would not use this one in an exterior application.
The one I used is intended for side mount batteries, I just drilled out the threaded post that I wanted to use and mounted it on the top lugs of my group 24 battery.
Mine came from Northern Tool.
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Moderator
2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
2017- F350 6.7 PSD Lariat FX4,SRW, SB,CC
Hughes PWD SP-50A, TST TPMS
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Can't find what you're looking on JOF? Try Jayco Owners Forum Custom Google Search
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