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Old 11-19-2014, 10:02 PM   #1
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iRV powered off but still lit

Just brought home our 2015 White Hawk 21FBS this week. Hoping for decently warm weather one weekend in early December for the first time out. Until then, got an iRV question. There's no power to the TT and the iRV is powered off. But the LCD screen is still displaying the time and has a slight glow. Assuming it's drawing power from the battery. Is there a way to completely power that iRV down or should we even worry about it. I doubt it's pulling much power kinda like the microwave displaying flashing zeroes. Thanks peeps!
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Old 11-19-2014, 10:13 PM   #2
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It would be difficult to eliminate all the phantom draws in the TT. They will kill a battery in a matter of days. You need to disconnect the battery, pull the 30A fuse at the battery, or install a disconnect switch -- anything to remove power from the TT.
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:57 PM   #3
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Yep same annoyance on my new TT. Don't think it draws much, but add it to what your fridge and lp alarm are likely drawing and it will kill a bat in a week. And you especially want to take care not to discharge your new battery more than about 20% your first 10 or so cycles. Clubhouse made a good suggestion. Pull the fuses or disconnect the battery. Or you can leave it plugged in year round, not the best for battery but these modern charge controllers do a good job. One of those solar trickle chargers would work too but it needs to be at least 60W. Your loads run 24/7 and solar does not. So you need to be making way more amps during the sun hours.

You can get battery disconnect switches at an automotive store. They are pretty simple and work well.

Congrats on the new TT!
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:23 AM   #4
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I put a tool/battery box on our White Hawk with a shutoff switch see the photo. Switch works great plus I can secure the battery and tools I keep in the box.
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:31 AM   #5
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Took me awhile to figure out what a iRV was...hehe...

Finally figured out it is 12 Volt iRV DVD/CD/AM/FM RV Radio Set...

Usually a single battery will only last a few days with all of the parastic power drains in a typical RF trailer.

What you don't want to happen is drain your battery below its 50% charge state (approximately 12.0VDC) which will do performance harm to your battery.

The simpliest thing you can do is just pull the NEG battery terminal. Adding a quick battery disconnect switch would be a good thing to add...

ALot of folks will provide an 10-gauge or 12gauge three conductor extension cord and proper RV Shore Power Cable long 'dogbone type' adapter (WALMART) to the trailer from a garage/house 120VAC receptacle which will keep the trailer on-board converter/charger powered up that will keep the battery charged when sitting in the driveway.

We do this for both our parked trailers 24/7 when parked here at the house using 50-foot contractor type 10-3 extension cords..

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Old 11-20-2014, 08:55 AM   #6
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Thanks for the suggestions! I think for now, we will pull the fuse and eventually install the disconnect switch. Give my DH something to work on...lol! Again, thanks!
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Old 12-02-2014, 08:59 AM   #7
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I put a tool/battery box on our White Hawk with a shutoff switch see the photo. Switch works great plus I can secure the battery and tools I keep in the box.
Rick: I'm loving that box. Would you happen to have any additional photos you could share? I've always wanted a similar setup, and would love to see some of your ideas on this.
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Old 12-02-2014, 10:16 AM   #8
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One of my recent mods [read about doing this on the forum] was to install a toggle cut off switch on the cabinet with the radio. Just don't like disconnecting the battery. All has not been a problem to me since I have an RV shorepower post near where I park/store the TT.

Mod is simple: Just take out the 4 screws holding in the radio and pull it out from the cabinet. ID and then clip the red [hot] wire. Then drill a hole in the side of the cabinet [in my case next to the fireplace] and install the toggle switch. Connect the switch to the open red wires and you're done.

When you drill the hole, be careful not to plunge thru and let the bit tear into the wire bundle behind the radio.
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Old 12-02-2014, 11:40 AM   #9
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Rick: I'm loving that box. Would you happen to have any additional photos you could share? I've always wanted a similar setup, and would love to see some of your ideas on this.
I was thinking the same thing. I'd like to see how that box fits between the tanks and the front wall of the TT. Something like this box is on my list, but it's pretty far down, I haven't even begun taking measurements yet.

For now, I just take my battery with me when I drop the TT off in storage (no power out there) and leave it on a float charger in my garage. Check the water every so often, and it's been a good system for me so far...
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Old 12-02-2014, 01:36 PM   #10
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I put a tool/battery box on our White Hawk with a shutoff switch see the photo. Switch works great plus I can secure the battery and tools I keep in the box.
That is a very nice battery box!
I went a little cheaper route that is all clamp on with no drilling on the trailer. I was also able to get the batteries out of Jack Knife space. I like a box for security. I have had to go pretty extreme with chains and padlocks. But it gets the job dun!
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Old 12-02-2014, 01:47 PM   #11
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That is a very nice battery box!
I went a little cheaper route that is all clamp on with no drilling on the trailer. I was also able to get the batteries out of Jack Knife space. I like a box for security. I have had to go pretty extreme with chains and padlocks. But it gets the job dun!
So... you're running (3) batteries?

I am quite jealous of welding capabilities. That's probably my next "hobby" to help support my other hobbies.
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Old 12-02-2014, 02:28 PM   #12
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So... you're running (3) batteries?

I am quite jealous of welding capabilities. That's probably my next "hobby" to help support my other hobbies.
4 total, the rack adds 2 more one on each side of the 2 it came with. Its kind of a saddle rack.

That was one of the most intricate things i have welded out of steel. I design stuff all the time but I don't actually build it. I was happy with how it came out. My new trailer came with 2 new batteries, and just weeks prior I had purchased two new batteries for my trailer i traded in. Since I had 4 of them all at once, I opted to go this configuration. (4) 12V Group 24 in parallel. When they go bad in a few years I will move up to (4) 6V and have 50% again more overall capacity.
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Old 01-24-2015, 10:56 AM   #13
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Where is the fuse for the iRV? Can't seem to find it anywhere.
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Old 01-24-2015, 10:49 PM   #14
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I believe mine is on the same circuit as the gas alarm.
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