LED lights burning out on 2015 Jay Feather

Marmot · 11-20-2014, 08:39 PM

There are three LED light fixtures on one circuit: one over the couch in the slideout, one in the bathroom and one over the foot of the bed. The light over the couch stopped working this morning and the light in the bathroom stopped working 8 hours later. The light over the bed is still working. The fuse looks good. When I pull the fuse, the light over the bed shines dimly on battery power, but the couch and bathroom lights remain dead. Any idea what is going on? LED lights should work for 10 years at a minimum. My SLX 18 SRB is 3 months old. For those that have not seen the new standard LED inside lights on 2015 Jaycos, they are circular units with 8 LED bulbs, and are hard wired, not plug-in.

clubhouse · 11-20-2014, 08:47 PM

3 mths old this would be a warranty call to the dealer. I suspect something in the circuit is compromised.

**Mustang65** · 11-21-2014, 06:03 AM

Can you see what else shuts off when the LED lights fuse is pulled. Sounds like a wiring problem as the LED's do not totally turn off when you pull the fuse.

Don

RoyBraddy · 11-21-2014, 06:36 AM

There is a difference between LED BOARDs burning out or just not working. In my case I had ordered some LEDs that had built-in regulators and was suppose to work with varing DC VOLTAGE from 9-20VDC or something like that. The problem was for me was these type of LED BOARDs generated RFI signals that interfered with electronics and my Ham Radio equipment including HDTV etc..

I changed these LED BOARDS out for the el-cheapo EBAY CHINA LED boards which solved my RFI Signal problem but now I have unregulated LED BOARDS that are speced to only work with a DC VOLTAGE range of 12-14VDC.

My highest DC VOLTAGE in the trailer is 14.4VDC when in boost charge mode could BURN OUT my non-regulated LED BOARDS. IN fact I have lost a few groups of three LEDs in a roll on the LED BOARDS which reduces the amount of light being produced.

When this gets too bad for me to use I will just simply replace the whole LED BOARD since they only cost around $4.99 each from ebay China.

After reading your symptoms I am not sure if your LEDs are burning out due to higher 12VDC VOLTAGES or some stopped working for some reason due to some ON-OFF problems.

????

Roy Ken

**Mustang65** · 11-21-2014, 09:27 AM

Roy is correct about the regulate vs unregulated LED lights. I ordered 4 from China and noticed that one of them was not the same design (unregulated). Interestingly enough, that one different LED assembly got very warm and eventually stopped working. They replaced the one that went bad with a regulated one like the others, and it does not heat up much either.

I also noticed this weekend I have a LED fixture with a few non-working LED's in it..... It looks like they only work for about 2 years.. I uess I will have to design/build my own LED assemblies.

My interest is WHY the LED's still light up (dim) when the fuse is pulled, as there should not be a complete circuit at that point. Do you use a generator for AC? Any possibility of AC voltage surge? Not sure if the TT's battery controller will absorb any spikes.

Don

Marmot · 11-21-2014, 10:24 AM

The trailer is on shore power and is first plugged into a Progressive Industries EMS PT30C, which is reporting no errors. There is no generator. The remaining light fixture on the problem circuit glows when the fuse is pulled. That is obviously not battery power as I said earlier, as the circuit is broken when the fuse is pulled. There are only 3 lights on this circuit (fuse #3) and two have failed. I really appreciate the helpful comments!

herewego · 11-23-2014, 05:40 AM

Bought all of our Led replacments from our local RV dealer 23 Lights almost 400 Bucks ..But no problems at all !!!

**Mustang65** · 11-23-2014, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marmot

T That is obviously not battery power as I said earlier, as the circuit is broken when the fuse is pulled.

Can you pull the connector to the LED that is dim after the fuse is pulled and see what voltage is on the wires feeding the bulb... LED's unlike the old small neon bulbs do not light with induction so I would probably eliminate that as a source... still sounds like a wiring problem to me.

Try pulling each of the remaining 12 volt fuses one at a time to see if there is another circuit that may be affecting this circuit. If it still is not totally off, try the AC breakers.

Just my thoughts,

Don

David472 · 11-23-2014, 11:33 AM

Roy, I would try a zener diode along with an appropriate sized dropping resistor, to build your own over-voltage protection of the LED light. Should be no RFI-EMI from that.

Another possibilty for early failure of an LED board assembly is cold or cracked solder joints. Especially considering the bouncing and vibration going down the road.

RoyBraddy · 11-23-2014, 12:00 PM

David472 - Well this was back in 2010 when I convertered over to LEDs boards in my POPUP. After I dropped the regulated type boards for the cheap ebay china boards I ordered 5-6 extra boards thinking they would be replacements boards for future failed ones. So far I haven't had to replace one. I do have one board with two groups of three leds off.

Guess I'm still money ahead with the cheap ebay/china group haha...

Thanks for the ZENER DIODE comment.

Roy Ken

Paintinfool3 · 11-23-2014, 12:25 PM

to me it sounds like a backfeed or lack of ground somewhere ... not sure on those circuits how they are run

Marmot · 03-05-2015, 10:48 PM

The LED units (4) were replaced under warranty. I removed them and took them to my dealer, then installed the new lights. I think Jayco picked the wrong supplier for their LED lights. Normally you would get many years of service from an LED. I suspect that all of these lights will eventually fail soon after the warranty period. If so, I will replace them with units that have a replaceable LED bulb (as I mentioned earlier, these original units have the LED bulb array hard wired). These are only about $10.00 each from Amazon.

The good news is everything is working fine now and the electrical system is not at fault. Thanks to everyone who responded.

DanNJanice · 08-05-2016, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marmot

The LED units (4) were replaced under warranty. I removed them and took them to my dealer, then installed the new lights. I think Jayco picked the wrong supplier for their LED lights. Normally you would get many years of service from an LED. I suspect that all of these lights will eventually fail soon after the warranty period. If so, I will replace them with units that have a replaceable LED bulb (as I mentioned earlier, these original units have the LED bulb array hard wired). These are only about $10.00 each from Amazon.

The good news is everything is working fine now and the electrical system is not at fault. Thanks to everyone who responded.

I just had two of the "puck" style bulbs go out on my last trip. Trailer is 16 months old. The two that failed are just dim, not completely off. One of them is over the kitchen sink area and the other is over the dinette table. Both are mounted to a wooden surround and have a small round glass shade.
Sadly, most of the compact fluorescent and LED bulbs I have seen fail prematurely due to poor design/manufacturing. I sure am glad I bought a pile of Edison bulbs for the house before they banned them!

ctbailey · 08-05-2016, 06:09 PM

I've got the same issue, I just ordered two LED boards from M4.

http://www.m4products.com/

They haven't arrived yet, so I can't speak to their effectiveness. I am planning on soldering them into the existing hard-wired fixtures. I purchased the regulated ALPLATE 24-5630. $11 each.

Craig Bailey
New England
2007 Chevy 2500HD crew
2015 Jayco Jayflight 32BHDS

ctbailey · 08-12-2016, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctbailey

I've got the same issue, I just ordered two LED boards from M4.

http://www.m4products.com/

They haven't arrived yet, so I can't speak to their effectiveness. I am planning on soldering them into the existing hard-wired fixtures. I purchased the regulated ALPLATE 24-5630. $11 each.

Craig Bailey
New England
2007 Chevy 2500HD crew
2015 Jayco Jayflight 32BHDS

Those al plate assemblies worked perfect! Not a direct plug in, but if you have a soldering iron you can replace the OEM lights

Craig Bailey
New England
2007 Chevy 2500HD crew
2015 Jayco Jayflight 32BHDS

**Mustang65** · 08-12-2016, 11:05 AM

4 years ago I replaced the bulbs in the TT with China Specials.. began replacing them one by one as the started failing... The first sign is that the clear lens cover gets hot.. then the LED's start dying one by one in the unit..

So, a few years ago I replaced a few with M4 LED's, to test them out and they were SOOOOOOO much better. I tried the COOL White, but DW thought they were way to BLUISH... Tried the COOL WHITE, DW thought they were to YELLOWISH, which left me with NATURAL WHITE that are 840 (Calculated) Lumens each. There are 6 in the living area and 4 in the bathroom. Plenty of light. Over the sink, I put in 2 COOL WHITE LED's which makes the food preparation a lot easier.. DW is extremely happy now.

The temperature of the M4's, after being on for 7 hours, is 78 degrees. So, I grabbed one of the old China Specials and plugged it in.. 108 degrees after 10 minutes.

I am now looking at the newer version below which are about 1600 (Calculated) Lumens for the living area. Can always wire in a dimmer if necessary.

http://www.m4products.com/alplate-24...luminum-plate/

Don

Grandpa · 08-13-2016, 03:01 PM

We've had several go out on our 2015 Seneca. It appears to me that the diodes on the original lights just start falling off the board. Usually the lights will be about half-bright for a while, then fail completely. Jayco sent me a few replacements and the diodes look like much higher quality on them. I suspect that all of the original lights are going to fail one by one...

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