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Old 12-07-2014, 09:46 AM   #1
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Servicing Leaky Bathroom Faucet

Our 2012 22FB has a leaky bathroom facuet. (both hot & cold sides) I need to change it prior to an upcoming trip we're planning down south. The faucet drips both on top and underneath when either side is opened.

Not knowing exactly where the leak is coming from I'm guessing that I will have to remove & pull the basin bowl up from the countertop in order to service the faucet itself. (Y/N?) I tried negotiating a good look with a mirror from underneath inside the vanity cabinet but that was inconclusive at best.

Once I loosen the bowl from underneath (which I really would rather avoid) how much 'play' and movement is there with the PEX water lines underneath? How serviceable is the faucet
itself? Or is it intended to be cost-effective to merely be a replacement item? Has anyone gone and changed out their faucet fixture for a premium stainless one? (It looks to be a standard 4 inch-on-center measurement)

Suggestions from anyone who has already worked on this particular fixture before would be most helpful. I do have to say that the trailer has served us very well. But maintenance like this is, of course, expected.

Thanks.
Ed
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Old 12-07-2014, 10:39 AM   #2
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I was able to reach the flange nuts on my last trailer by following the line up to the faucet with my hand. Replacing the faucet with a Home Depot sale item took about 30 minutes and one of the best mods done to the trailer. A buddy cut his water lines and made extensions that he attached to a new faucet before dropping it in place and after tightening the faucet, used shark bite connectors to splice into the original lines.
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Old 12-07-2014, 11:52 AM   #3
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X2 on what stingray said. I would just replace the entire faucet. You should be able to do this without removing the basin.
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Old 12-07-2014, 04:50 PM   #4
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ID:	16127Stingray is right. If you follow the supply lines up you will feel a large nut that connects the supply line to the faucet. Back off the nuts and lift off the faucet. Then replace it with something beside the Jayco Junk.
Put some plumbers putty, caulk or silicone between the counter top or bason of the new faucet to set and seal the unit. Remember to only HAND tighten the supply line nuts.
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Old 12-08-2014, 10:47 AM   #5
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I replaced my bathroom lavatory faucet after my first outing. There are a few other threads on this sight that deal with this subject. Most people find the spout too short on the factory faucet; we tend to get water all over the countertop just trying to rinse our hands off. I went with a single handle, brushed nickel faucet from Menard's. It was their cheap store brand, but hey, it's better than the one that came in the trailer.

It's pretty tight to operate inside the cabinet, so I'd recommend getting a "basin wrench" - $8 - $12 at any hardware store. As others have said, don't remove the sink! Just follow the water lines up with your hand while guiding the basin wrench into place. Remove the water line nuts and spud nuts (the large nuts that hold the faucet to the sink) from the old faucet to remove it. I found that my sink is such thin plastic, that there wasn't enough thread on the new faucet valves to tighten the faucet down to the sink. I just picked up 4 fender washers to use as spacers (two on each side), and that allowed me to tighten the spud nuts for a nice tight fit. If the water lines on your new faucet go through the center hole of the sink, the faucet will come with a tie-down bracket, so you may not encounter this issue.

Just a couple of other points:
1) My new faucet's spout is so long (or rather, the sink is so small), that now I get water all over the countertop in front of the sink, rather than behind it! Oh well!
2) Because the tail piece is glued to the sink, you won't be able to remove it and use the tail piece/pop-up drain that comes with your new faucet. You may be able to find a hole plug to fill the hole in the faucet where the pop-up stem is suppose to go. If not, a dab of silicone sealant will prevent water from dripping down through that hole.
3) If you have an acrylic sink or your sink is mounted underneath your granite or Corian countertop, do not use plumber's putty to seal around the bottom of the faucet. Plumber's putty will stain all three types of products.
Instead, use clear silicone sealant, or the vinyl flange that comes with most modern faucets.

It's really quite an easy job, but don't tell the DW! Stay in the trailer for a couple of hours with a cold one watching the game. Let her think it took you all afternoon, but you were glad to do it to make her happy!
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Old 12-08-2014, 02:19 PM   #6
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It's really quite an easy job, but don't tell the DW! Stay in the trailer for a couple of hours with a cold one watching the game. Let her think it took you all afternoon, but you were glad to do it to make her happy!

That's devious; I like it!
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Old 12-08-2014, 02:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrascal View Post
It's really quite an easy job, but don't tell the DW! Stay in the trailer for a couple of hours with a cold one watching the game. Let her think it took you all afternoon, but you were glad to do it to make her happy!

That's devious; I like it!
I'm on way out to look at that sink right now and I know it's at least 2 trips to the hardware store before I take it apart. Check your local supermarket for parts it's just over from the Beer section.
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Old 12-08-2014, 08:56 PM   #8
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Brownie has a lot of good points in post #5. I had a hard time removing those original spud nuts that hold the taps in place. Just couldn't get my hand to function up in that tight spot. Then I just removed the thin top board of the self...small u shaped staples are what holds it in place. Was able to get a small adjustable wrench up there and break the spud nuts free. Put in a complete new set of 4'' taps. Pulled the small staples out of the self and just lightly glued it back in place. Big improvement.
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Old 12-08-2014, 09:45 PM   #9
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Thanks for the very helpful suggestions. Will change out the faucet fixture and then use flexible S/S braided water hookup lines. Hopefully I can get the nuts loosened without too much trouble. Thanks.
Ed
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Old 12-09-2014, 07:51 PM   #10
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Replaced the bathroom faucet in our White Hawk. Easy to do. Used standard 4" replacement brushed nickel from Home Depot. About $50.00 If you want name brand like Delta will be about double the price.

No reason you should replace supply lines. Hand tighten all the plastic fittings.

Upgraded faucet big improvement as stock faucet is so small.

You might also check your other water fittings. The fitting on the back of our toilet was loose and caused a small leak on the floor.
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:27 PM   #11
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The faucet replacement is complete and was quite easy. I used a bathroom faucet from Lowes, model #64374. ('Project Source' brand) I was able to easily remove the plastic nuts securing the water lines (used a basin wrench to gently get them loose and tighten up the new ones.) Then the flange nuts securing the faucet to the basin came off easily as well. The new faucet was a drop in replacement. This particular faucet seems to have a MUCH smoother and easier rotation of the water knobs than the stock fixture that Jayco installs. And the price was only $18.46. I can only imagine what an RV dealer would have charged for such a service repair.

Project complete. No problems. No leaks. Thanks for the suggestions.
Ed
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:54 PM   #12
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Way to go Ed. Thanks for checking back with a report.
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:53 AM   #13
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I just did this on the bathroom and kitchen faucets. What an improvement over the original junk, using Peerless and American Standard. Did need a 3/8x1/2 coupler.

The timing was lucky. The P-trap was coming loose from the sink drain.
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Old 12-19-2014, 03:15 PM   #14
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We need a LIKE BUTTON, Took my wife about fifteen minutes. Good job Steamboat and ceKKK
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