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Old 09-23-2012, 08:09 PM   #1
Kevin21
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Hot water tank drain plug

Am close to winterizing and am not sure how to drain the hot water tank. Does anyone have a picture or is there just one plug that you can remove?

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Old 09-23-2012, 08:36 PM   #2
Crabman
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There are several different models that Atwood and Suburban make. The one in the pic is similar to what I have, a 6 gallon gas/electric DSI Atwood. The drain plug is on the lower left and is plastic and takes a 15/16th" socket to remove. I use a 1/2 inch ratchet with extension. I remove the plug and open up a faucet to make sure it drains all the way.

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Old 09-23-2012, 10:06 PM   #3
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Our tank is a 10 gallon and it also has a plastic drain plug. It is either a 13/16 or a 15/16, I can't remember which. I usually open the air valve on the upper part of the tank. You can just open a hot water faucet in the trailer.
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:15 AM   #4
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Because plastic threads eventually deteriorate with remove/replace cycles, I replaced mine with a brass plug that has a T valve in it. That way it never has to be removed - just opened, along with an interior HW faucet. These are available cheaply at most hardware stores.
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Old 09-24-2012, 05:03 AM   #5
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Just remember brass and aluminum are not friendly to each other; throw heat into the mix and you're asking for trouble. That is why they put a nylon plug in there at the factory. I would recommend buying one or two plastic plugs and chuck 'em if the threads get buggered up and put a new one in. You could buy a nylon bushing and still put a brass T-handle drain valve in it if you wish.

I worked at a plant that made air con tubing and heater pipe for cars. Once a machine had run brass tubing you couldn't use it for aluminum tubing. If one tiny shaving of brass gets embedded in the aluminum tubing, it will eat a hole in it eventually.
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:16 AM   #6
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If you have a 4 prong lug wrench, one of the larger ends will fit this plug. No need to buy one if you don't already have it. Be sure to open a vent hole, the relief valve or a faucet or it will not drain.

I always put a sign on the switch to warn anyone about turning it on without water.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:37 AM   #7
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I keep a couple of spare plugs in my "parts" box. I also have a flushing wand (similar to the black tank wand but smells better) for the water heater. After I drain and flush I hook the wand up to compressed air and blow out a little more water. Plug her up and she's ready for bed.
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:07 PM   #8
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You may have low point drains under the camper that will empty the water heater. If you don't remove the plug or anode rod and let the water drain out. Then using a water heater tank rinser ( http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...k-rinser/49070 ) or spray the water from the hose into the tank to flush any gunk out of the water heater.
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:43 PM   #9
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Thanks everyone.

I had a Class C a few years ago that had a pet**** for draining but didn't see one on the Jayco. Must have been a cost saver to remove it.

WKRP
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Old 09-24-2012, 04:45 PM   #10
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I got censored for an actual word, that is an actual part. Oh well, you know what I mean.

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