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Old 10-20-2020, 06:44 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by 01tundra View Post
That's very true, the trailer has become my hobby for both using and upgrading.

Switching to these reduced our tongue weight by about 120 lbs and this trailer is TW heavy. It also gave me a place to store dirty levelers and wheel chocks instead of having to wipe them off every time I put them away in the front pass thru. Between those two reasons and the fact that I don't have to worry about keeping up with water level and with the rate that they charge I can easily justify the purchase.

These batteries will switch from trailer to trailer with us in the future.

I mean, if you really want to start counting dollars.......when you see the RV dealership just keep on driving, just like the boat dealership, new car dealership, HAM radio website, fly fishing shop, mountain bike shop,......
Agreed.
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Old 01-08-2021, 10:23 AM   #22
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snip...... the trailer has become my hobby for both using and upgrading.........snip
That sums it up nicely

Once my two Interstate 6V's start showing signs of 'age' (like myself), I plan to go Lithium as well.

Bob
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Old 01-25-2021, 12:45 PM   #23
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Since my other thread was started for the old Trojan battery install I figured I'd start a new one specifically about our LiFePO4 system, especially since there's a lot of questions out there about them now.

This is a small and simple system because that's how we camp, we typically only average around 10Ah of energy usage per 24 hrs when dry camping since we are typically outside most of the time. We really only use a few lights, USB charging, water pump and the little bit of power for the fridge on propane and the LP detector. I've installed switches for the stereo standby mode, refrigerator door heater, etc. so we have total control over everything in the trailer, our resting (parasitic) amp draw is zero with everything turned off, although the only time the LP detector is off is during transit (propane tanks are always turned off while traveling), so with the detector on our parasitic draw is 0.1A per our Victron BMV-712.

I installed two 100Ah batteries in a rear storage cabinet right next to the converter to minimize charge wire length. All power wiring between the batteries and shunt/rear power post are 1/0 Copper. The 12V positive/negative wires serving the converter originate from the factory negative bus and Blue Sea power post located behind the converter. I used 1/0 to connect the factory negative bus to the chassis. The 1/0 is attached to the factory bus bar with large screw-on lugs. I used short (approx. 16") dual 6AWG cables to connect to the fuse block terminals. This was the largest wire that I could cleanly route through the fuse panel area. I backfed the trailer with the factory 8AWG charge wire from the power post with a dedicated 40A Blue Sea breaker. I reused the factory front battery isolation switch as a terminal post on one side for powering the tongue jack, break-away controller and TPMS booster. The former front battery box now serves as a great place to store levelers and wheel chocks.

The factory WFCO 55A converter was replaced with a PD4655L Wildkat converter, which allowed me to reuse the factory breaker/fuse panel. When set in Li mode the converter charges at a constant 14.6V. I typically keep the batteries charged to 90% SOC and disconnected via a Blue Sea 300A master disconnect switch while connected to shore power at home or at campsites with hook-ups. I only turn the batteries on during transit to power the emergency break-away brake controller. If we are going to dry camp I charge the batteries to 100% SOC prior to leaving home, which takes maybe 15 minutes. It's typically recommended to not keep the batteries stored at 100% SOC if they're not going to be used for a while. It's also not recommended to keep a bulk charge on the batteries for more than 2-3 weeks. It's OK to keep a float charge of 13.6V max on them, but this converter doesn't have that mode while in Li mode and it's not really needed. I could run it in normal mode and force it into float mode via the remote pendant, but that's too much trouble with no real benefit for us. WFCO does now make a Li charger that has bulk and float modes and Progressive stated that they have one in the works, but I see no real need for it personally. When initially charging the converter is able to push 56 amps into the batteries and slowly tapers to almost 0 amps once the batteries reach 14.6V.

I also installed a disconnect switch up front that controls whether I allow the truck to charge the batteries or not via the alternator. Since the resting voltage for the batteries is 13.4V at 100% SOC, I don't want the truck drawing the trailer batteries down. We don't do trips with multiple dry camping locations and long drives between and there's zero amp draw on our batteries while in transit, there's no real need for a DC-DC charger.

For solar we have a 200W Renogy Eclipse solar suitcase with the two 100W panels wired in series. We use a Victron MPPT SolarSmart 75/15 controller that's mounted inside the front pass-thru. I mounted the controller up front because we used to have two Trojan T-105's on the tongue. When the batteries were up front I ran a dedicated 1/0 Copper cable between the batteries and converter in the back of the trailer, so when I relocated the new batteries to the rear I repurposed the 1/0 as the connection between the solar controller and batteries. Since we use the factory SAE solar plug on the front side of the trailer everything works out good, I did rewire between the SAE plug and controller with 10AWG wire. This solar system is relatively small for two 100Ah batteries, but since we have no plans to ever run an inverter and want to stay with a suitcase style solar system it all works out for us. Plus recharging 10-15Ah with LiFePO4 is pretty fast with decent sun. I think with our use we can leave our generator at home now when we do 10 day dry camping trips, which is the ultimate goal for Fall/Winter/Early Spring camping.

So this isn't an ideal system for folks who are heavy energy users, but it should be very solid for our use.















Good afternoon,

I recently read your post about you upgraded battery installation and I was wondering if you wouldn't mind answering some questions that I have?

I am upgrading my 2 lead acid batteries that came with my 2021 Jayco Eagle 330rsts TT with 2 battle born 100ah batteries. The coach comes with a 1200w Xantrex Freedom X inverter for the residential refrigerator. Though I do not have solar, it is solar pre-wired but at this time I am not installing any panels. Because it appears that my installed inverter is just that and not a charger/inverter combo, what then charges the batteries in these coaches, the converter? and if so do you know if the settings can be changed to adjust for lithium batteries. Very new and learning the electrical game of campers!!

thank you in advance for any and all information you can provide!

Shawn
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Old 01-25-2021, 12:53 PM   #24
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Good afternoon,

I recently read your post about you upgraded battery installation and I was wondering if you wouldn't mind answering some questions that I have?

I am upgrading my 2 lead acid batteries that came with my 2021 Jayco Eagle 330rsts TT with 2 battle born 100ah batteries. The coach comes with a 1200w Xantrex Freedom X inverter for the residential refrigerator. Though I do not have solar, it is solar pre-wired but at this time I am not installing any panels. Because it appears that my installed inverter is just that and not a charger/inverter combo, what then charges the batteries in these coaches, the converter? and if so do you know if the settings can be changed to adjust for lithium batteries. Very new and learning the electrical game of campers!!

thank you in advance for any and all information you can provide!

Shawn
If your inverter isn't a combo charger then I would guess that you should have a converter installed at the power center where the breaker panel is. I'm not sure what brand/model the converter would be but it's likely a WFCO. You can purchase a replacement converter section rated for Li batteries that slides right in where the factory one is mounted, which is what I did. I don't know for sure, but I doubt the factory convertor would have the Li option.

Or you have the option of getting a deck-mounted convertor. Since you already have an inverter I imagine you wouldn't want to trash it to purchase a combination inverter/charger, but that's also an option.
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Old 01-27-2021, 12:27 AM   #25
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I just replaced my factory battery with a 100 ah lithium battery. I also installed a dc to dc charger and replaced the converter.
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Old 01-27-2021, 08:34 AM   #26
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I just replaced my factory battery with a 100 ah lithium battery. I also installed a dc to dc charger and replaced the converter.
You're going to love it, the recharge rate is amazing.
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Old 02-06-2021, 11:14 AM   #27
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I'm a full timer and am planning to upgrade to 2 100ah BB lithium as well. I checked on my converter and I don't need to change it. So I was going to just swap the current batteries out with the lithium, and I believe I should be good to go.....I am new to these batteries (not to solar), so when I see these posts with all the extra things you added, it gets me worried I am missing something. Am I??

I currently have......
380W solar
Renogy Rover 40A MPPT controller
2-12v Group 27 flooded batteries

I only use about 14ah a day when boondocking, but with 2 BB lithium I'll be able to use a bit more

Thx!!
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Old 02-06-2021, 11:34 AM   #28
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Extra things as in what?

If you have LiFePO4 batteries I highly recommend you install a monitor, ours is a Victron BMV-712.

I installed the DC-DC charger so we could actually charge our battery while driving. If you have roof-mounted solar panels and good weather it may not be worth it in your case, but since we use a solar suitcase we needed it. The factory charging capability of a tow vehicle is a trickle charge at best, we can now supply a constant 25A @ 14.4V to our batteries while driving.

I changed the converter so I could provide a constant 14.4V to the batteries, if your converter doesn’t do that you won’t ever achieve cell balance, unless you’re using your solar to charge them.
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Old 02-06-2021, 01:21 PM   #29
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You added all the switches and whatever. My solar is roof mounted. I dont need it to charge while driving. My converter will charge at 13.6 unless I push a button that will put it into boost mode 14.4. But I am usually not hooked up so my solar will take care of it. Guess I will be good. ��
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Old 02-06-2021, 01:36 PM   #30
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You added all the switches and whatever. My solar is roof mounted. I dont need it to charge while driving. My converter will charge at 13.6 unless I push a button that will put it into boost mode 14.4. But I am usually not hooked up so my solar will take care of it. Guess I will be good. ��
Not sure what you’re referring to?

I have a master battery disconnect switch, which everyone should have.

I have a master trailer breaker and solar breakers, which everyone should have.
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Old 03-13-2021, 12:26 PM   #31
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Thanks a lot for your posts, truly respect the workmanship and thoughtfulness that went into this.

I am wondering if you or others can guide me in one area of my TT LiFePO4 and solar install--specifically the tow vehicle interaction, and backfeeding the connection to original battery location/ebrake, etc. There is info on the web, but hoping to find more later model Jayco-specific info and photos.

Priorities:
  • Preserving ebrake power source and power tongue jack
  • Preserving TV directed lighting/signalling/braking to TT
  • Not screwing up the TV alternator and onboard electronics
  • No additional circuits from TV battery, my TV is not mod-friendly!
  • Works with my current equipment (see below)
Like to have:
  • Remove both tongue-mounted LA batteries (LiFePO4 are inside now)
  • Retain Solar-on-the-side as an auxillary solar input if I am in the shade and want to supplement with portable panels.
  • I don't think I will NEED TV charging of batteries, but wouldn't MIND having it if it comes with no risk to TV or TT. Clearly I would need to have some way to boost voltage and live within the ampacity of current TV wiring.
  • Clean install, with efficient cost
So a lot of this relates to how the 7 pin umbilical and the factory battery connections to TT are wired to the trailer at the Aframe, and how to manage isolation (or not) to the TV.

Current Equipment:
  • 2017 Jay Feather 23BHM
  • 2 x 120AH LiFePO4 (from cells) with 2 x BMS, in parallel for 12V
  • 2 X 100W panels with 20A MPPT SCC (all Rich Solar)
  • Kisae Inverter/Charger with integrated smart switch
  • All the breakers, fuses, switches to integrate this in found space inside
Inverter and batteries feed the original WFCO panel, with converter disconnected because the Kisae handles charging when connected to shore power.


I was going to similarly backfeed to the Aframe using the factory wire, now FROM the panel area/bus, adding a fuse. But how do I deal with TV isolation (or not?)


Quote:
Originally Posted by 01tundra View Post
I backfed the trailer with the factory 8AWG charge wire from the power post with a dedicated 40A Blue Sea breaker. I reused the factory front battery isolation switch as a terminal post on one side for powering the tongue jack, break-away controller and TPMS booster. The former front battery box now serves as a great place to store levelers and wheel chocks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 01tundra View Post
I installed the DC-DC charger so we could actually charge our battery while driving. If you have roof-mounted solar panels and good weather it may not be worth it in your case, but since we use a solar suitcase we needed it. The factory charging capability of a tow vehicle is a trickle charge at best, we can now supply a constant 25A @ 14.4V to our batteries while driving.

I changed the converter so I could provide a constant 14.4V to the batteries, if your converter doesn’t do that you won’t ever achieve cell balance, unless you’re using your solar to charge them.
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Old 03-13-2021, 02:03 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by lateott View Post
Thanks a lot for your posts, truly respect the workmanship and thoughtfulness that went into this.

I am wondering if you or others can guide me in one area of my TT LiFePO4 and solar install--specifically the tow vehicle interaction, and backfeeding the connection to original battery location/ebrake, etc. There is info on the web, but hoping to find more later model Jayco-specific info and photos.

Priorities:
  • Preserving ebrake power source and power tongue jack
  • Preserving TV directed lighting/signalling/braking to TT
  • Not screwing up the TV alternator and onboard electronics
  • No additional circuits from TV battery, my TV is not mod-friendly!
  • Works with my current equipment (see below)
Like to have:
  • Remove both tongue-mounted LA batteries (LiFePO4 are inside now)
  • Retain Solar-on-the-side as an auxillary solar input if I am in the shade and want to supplement with portable panels.
  • I don't think I will NEED TV charging of batteries, but wouldn't MIND having it if it comes with no risk to TV or TT. Clearly I would need to have some way to boost voltage and live within the ampacity of current TV wiring.
  • Clean install, with efficient cost
So a lot of this relates to how the 7 pin umbilical and the factory battery connections to TT are wired to the trailer at the Aframe, and how to manage isolation (or not) to the TV.

Current Equipment:
  • 2017 Jay Feather 23BHM
  • 2 x 120AH LiFePO4 (from cells) with 2 x BMS, in parallel for 12V
  • 2 X 100W panels with 20A MPPT SCC (all Rich Solar)
  • Kisae Inverter/Charger with integrated smart switch
  • All the breakers, fuses, switches to integrate this in found space inside
Inverter and batteries feed the original WFCO panel, with converter disconnected because the Kisae handles charging when connected to shore power.


I was going to similarly backfeed to the Aframe using the factory wire, now FROM the panel area/bus, adding a fuse. But how do I deal with TV isolation (or not?)
I have done nothing other than solar charger for my LiFePO4 install. My TV (17 F150) will actually pull from the trailer battery on long drives to charge its AGM starter battery. I only get a few amps charging while driving anyways. Small wire doesn't carry much over 20+ feet.
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Old 07-26-2021, 11:04 AM   #33
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It's been a while since I updated this post.

Everything is still working great, although I have made some changes since the last post.

Since I'm utilizing the engine detect option on the Victron DC-DC charger I have removed the disconnect switch I installed in the trailer.

I also installed an Anderson bulkhead plug on the same side of the trailer as the solar controller and rewired the controller.

Ended up removing the PD4655L Wildkat single-stage converter and replaced it with a deck-mount Progressive PD9160ALV 2-stage Li converter.











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Old 08-11-2022, 12:02 PM   #34
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Well.....I'm almost embarrassed to update this post after reading through ependydad's build, but it helps me keep up with all my changes so anyways

I decided to relocate the converter and batteries to the front pass through so I can have everything in one place.

Also upgraded the DC-DC charger from an 18A to a 30A to get the maximum charging capability while on the road.

The system is all connected with 1/0 cable and is super efficient due to all the components being a foot away from each other. The 60A converter pushes up to around 61A to the batteries in Bulk charge mode.

For our style of dry camping this system is a perfect match.











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Old 09-02-2022, 06:01 AM   #35
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Ok.....let's get this out of the way....I admit I have both a problem when it comes to converters. This is the fourth converter I've had in the trailer in the last 3.5 years, and they all still work fine.

I decided to give the new Victron Phoenix Smart IP43 Charger a try since everything else I have is Victron and I like having complete control over my charging system.

Used 1/4" thick steel to fabricated the stand legs, it turned out very solid.

It's really nice having everything on the Victron network, I like to know what's going on.

When set to "power supply" mode the charger provides a constant output voltage based on where you set it. The voltage doesn't fluctuate more than 0.01V regardless of load. I will typically run the charge in this mode with the batteries turned off unless we're dry camping.

When set to "Charger" mode, via the app, it charges the batteries based on the charge profile chosen. I used the preset charge profile for LiFePO4 batteries, which is 14.2V Bulk and 13.5V Float.

The charger uses input data from the BMV.













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Old 09-02-2022, 07:32 AM   #36
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Wow that's pretty cool!! I so wish I could do this (myself) but the wiring is all Chinese to me
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Old 10-16-2022, 09:04 AM   #37
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Just completely gutted and reworked the entire power system in the trailer. Picked up a lot of storage space over the previous install.

All hardware is either stainless steel or aluminum. The backer board is 0.125" perforated aluminum mounted to 1"x1" aluminum extrusion. I put 1/16" Noryl insulating plates under each component terminal section.

It's not a big fancy system like others on here, but it's solid and does a good job for our needs.













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Old 10-19-2022, 09:31 PM   #38
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Love reading about all these upgrades.
I have a 267BHS with thermal covering.
Any advice on how to reroute the battery cables from the a frame to under the bed?
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Old 10-21-2022, 11:09 AM   #39
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Love reading about all these upgrades.
I have a 267BHS with thermal covering.
Any advice on how to reroute the battery cables from the a frame to under the bed?
I'm not familiar with your particular trailer, but ours too has the coroplast belly cover and I learned a lot by just dropping the front area of it down and seeing where wiring could be ran.
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Old 10-21-2022, 03:31 PM   #40
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@01Tundra - Nice install and cleanup! About how big is that Phoenix charger? Just wondering is all this hooked into the mini lite's existing inverter or have you upgraded that as well? To complete this you know you need to add a Cebro to it! (it will even give you remote control over your rig if it has wifi) I am also glad to see someone else use the lync power hack and fuses!

@TBear - As Tundra mentions just drop a portion of the coroplast, usually the front is easier to do, and it will open your eyes to how its all put together. Mine had wires just running on top of it. At some point I need to drop it further and at least zip tie those up, as Jayco didnt... Just in case the plastic ever decides to rip off. You will also be privy to all the holes where existing wire, pipes etc run and usually can fit some additional wires in them.
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