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Old 08-11-2015, 09:32 AM   #11
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I went through the same dilemma!


Plugging the whole RV into an inverter powered by the RV's battery creates a convoluted mess.


On my old trailer, I installed the inverter inside as near as possible to the battery and used the inverter's own outlets to power the microwave or coffee grinder as needed.


The new trailer posed some real headaches! So I chose a completely different route:
- I build a 12VDC genset (plenty of plans for them on teh intarwebs). Topps up the battery because of the 2-5A needed for the gas appliances and safety systems.
- I installed a 15A power inlet on the side of the trailer near the battery box.
- The inlet connects to a quad outlet pack near the kitchen.
No 120VAC is supplied to the trailer's AC system. Any appliance has to be manually plugged in to the quad box.


KISS principle. Every time.
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:53 AM   #12
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Yeah, I understand about being careful what you turn on when the whole trailer is powered from a 1500 watt inverter. I just thought I would be able to do that without much problem. What would happen if say, the a-c, was turned on accidentally ? Is there something on the inverter that would trip? Problem for me is there are things all over the trailer I want to power with the inverter ac. I have a sat. clock in the bedroom thats 110, I want to plug in my sound machine in the bedroom. Coffee maker in the kitchen, cell phone/computers charging wherever. I dont use the fridge exept at campgrounds with electric ,and If I want hot water I'll fire up the gen.
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Old 08-11-2015, 11:53 AM   #13
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Your reasoning for why to power all your outlets makes sense. Most inverters in the event of a overload will shut off; just one more specification to check.

What size battery bank are you planning on? 6 volt or 12 volt batteries? Also, what wire size do you plan to use to supply the 125 or so Amps your inverter will require?
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:06 PM   #14
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A couple things could happen if you turn on the AC.. while being powered by the inverter, the AC's load capacitor could blow and or the inverters fuse you installed or cause damage to the wiring inside the inverter, along with other things, or just blow a fuse, but I am not willing to test that out.

I am looking at an upgrade to my "Not so Automatic Transfer switch". I manually plug the TT's 110VAC control panel into either the Shore Power outlet or the INVERTER outlet. Works for me, but there is ALWAYS room for improvement. The current method for preventing us from turning on the AC when on the inverter is a sign that we hang over the Thermostat that says "NO AC" in big letters. Has worked for the last 3 years.

Since all the CG's that we go to have 50 Amp service, I am thinking of converting the TT to 50Amp service... ahhh but not the normal 50 Amp hookup. One side will utilize the existing 30 amp TT wiring from the 50 Amp shore power receptical and the other side of the 50 Amp service will only supply 110VAC to the AC unit. This way the AC will only work when the TT is using Shore Power. Probably a winter project.

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Old 08-11-2015, 12:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick danger View Post
Yeah, I understand about being careful what you turn on when the whole trailer is powered from a 1500 watt inverter. I just thought I would be able to do that without much problem. What would happen if say, the a-c, was turned on accidentally ? Is there something on the inverter that would trip? Problem for me is there are things all over the trailer I want to power with the inverter ac. I have a sat. clock in the bedroom thats 110, I want to plug in my sound machine in the bedroom. Coffee maker in the kitchen, cell phone/computers charging wherever. I dont use the fridge exept at campgrounds with electric ,and If I want hot water I'll fire up the gen.

To guard against the A/C from being turned on accidentally while the inverter is on, turn off the circuit breaker for the A/C which is likely on its own circuit.

Like Don said above, adding a breaker to control only the converter is very easy. It took less than ten minutes for me.
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:21 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by sebring96hbg View Post
To guard against the A/C from being turned on accidentally while the inverter is on, turn off the circuit breaker for the A/C which is likely on its own circuit.

Like Don said above, adding a breaker to control only the converter is very easy. It took less than ten minutes for me.
I'm pretty sure the converter is already on its own breaker. My concern was(and is) useing the breaker as a switch every night. Will it weaken the breaker over time? That was my only reason for putting it on a switch. I'm the only one who uses this trailer ,so I'm not that concerned with things being turned on that shouldnt be. That said.....I could always make a mistake
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:28 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by RVhiker View Post
Your reasoning for why to power all your outlets makes sense. Most inverters in the event of a overload will shut off; just one more specification to check.

What size battery bank are you planning on? 6 volt or 12 volt batteries? Also, what wire size do you plan to use to supply the 125 or so Amps your inverter will require?
Right now I have two 12v deep cycle marine batteries. Not true deep c
ycle since they have a cca rating right? I was just going to see how they worked first and if I have to I was going to get these http://www.batteriesinaflash.com/dee...ud0aApRD8P8HAQ What size wire should I use for the 12v inverter supply on about a 7 foot run. 6 awg? I have some 10-2 romex for the 110v side
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:31 PM   #18
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The breaker will be ok. At the phone company (power department) I used to turn on/off a 15 amp breaker for a piece of Central office test equipment at least 1x a day for 4 years. It never went bad.
It is not like you have 30 amps continually going through the breaker.
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:45 PM   #19
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You can add a BLUE SEA manual operated 120VAC selector switch that has multiple pole add-on switch layers. This is what one guy did shown here on GOOGLE SEARCH




The wiring in the hard part. You will have to break into the 120V wiring and re-route them...

The multi-switch paths will only turn ON and OFF what you want it to do when on the INVERTER or SHORE POWER..

This is a 3PDT version of the BLUE SEA ROTARY SWITCH


Something like this schematic to give an idea...


I just installed a 600WATT PSW INVERTER and routed two HD extension cords that had multi-head outlets on the ends and ran to the home entertainment center area and the other back to the bedroom night table area. Then I just plug in the things we want to run when camping off the power grid...


Much simpler to do

Roy Ken
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Old 08-11-2015, 02:21 PM   #20
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According to a wire gauge chart from Blue Sea at this link for a 15 foot total distance (7 1/2 feet away from the battery bank for the positive and negative) you'd need 2 AWG for 120 Amps and 1 AWG for 150 Amps. I don't know how many batteries you'd need to supply that much current for a reasonable time, but it'd be more than two.
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