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Old 01-03-2015, 03:01 PM   #1
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30A Circuit Breaker vs 30A Fuse

Anybody tried this on the main battery fuse of your TT? We just got our coach yesterday and I'm already out of fuses! Seems to me an auto reset (type 1) automotive type CB would be just the ticket. What do you think?
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Old 01-03-2015, 03:13 PM   #2
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Do you know what is causing the fuses to blow? Knowing that would be the first step.

In this forum, over extending the electric tongue jack seems to be a frequent cause. Is that what you are doing?
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Old 01-03-2015, 07:32 PM   #3
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You just got Yesterday ??? Is this a new unit ? If so TAke it back ....
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Old 01-03-2015, 08:05 PM   #4
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My trailer came without a factory-installed electric tongue jack, and I'm glad it did. I had the dealer install their aftermarket Husky brand jack, and I've never had a bit of problem with it blowing a fuse. It has an auto-reset circuit breaker, and (to the best of my knowledge) it's never tripped.

I'm certainly no electronics expert, but I don't know why fitting yours with the type you mention wouldn't work.
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Old 01-03-2015, 08:07 PM   #5
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Definitely not normal blowing the 30AMP Battery in-line fuse. I don't think I have ever blown mine on my two trailer.

Some simple things that might blow the 30AMP fuse might be a bad battery with shorted cell, too high DC Voltage coming from the on board converter, battery terminals installed in REVERSE ORDER, something grounded touching the main DC LINE coming from battery bank...

Be sure to check the battery for low fluids. A shorted cell or over charging from the converter will make the battery get real warm to hot and boil out the fluids.

Battery may have been discharged to low from sitting too long in storage prior to you getting it...

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Old 01-03-2015, 10:34 PM   #6
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Well today was spent loading the trailer with our camping gear and fine tuning the WD hitch (Equal-i-zer). I ran the tongue jack in and out multiple times, had the slider in and out twice and had no blown fuse issues. I was careful to not over-extend or over-retract either one. I checked the battery and the jack connections and nothing jumped out at me, everything looked good. I'm stumped, but happy that whatever it was seems to have cured itself. BTW, since this is a new trailer the battery is a new Interstate deep cycle. All wiring was done at the factory and there is no sign of corrosion or rust on any of the connections.

All that having been said, my original question has not been answered. Is there any reason why one could not use a circuit breaker of some sort instead of a fuse?
Thanks for all the input so far.
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Old 01-04-2015, 06:37 AM   #7
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I was thinking about installing a 30 amp one like this http://cdnstatic.hodgesmarine.com/pr.../BLU7181br.pdf but have not for two reasons 1. More expensive than fuses 2. I was going to use it as a battery disconnect, but unlike my boat I have seen several posts stating to put disconnects on the negative terminal?. It is waterproof so you could mount it on the battery box
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:28 AM   #8
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I am not sure if you could but see no reason why you couldn't. I would call a local dealer and talk to their service dept to make sure. They should know.
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:18 AM   #9
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You could go with a circuit breaker to replace your TT's standard inline main fuse, ONLY if you get the MANUAL RESET TYPE and the Amps do not exceed the Amp rating of the TT's specifications (mfr supplied inline fuse). In my EAGLE it is a 30Amp fuse.

The reason for the MANUAL RESET type is if there is an issue (as in your case, unknown cause) and it goes undetected, it could cause some real problems, like burnt wires, electrical shorts due to burnt wires, electronics being trashed...., and the possibility of a fire.

...You still need to isolate the cause of the blown fuses, before it plays hell on your camping trips.

Just my thoughts,

Don
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Old 01-04-2015, 08:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rmgrose View Post
I was thinking about installing a 30 amp one like this http://cdnstatic.hodgesmarine.com/pr.../BLU7181br.pdf but have not for two reasons 1. More expensive than fuses 2. I was going to use it as a battery disconnect, but unlike my boat I have seen several posts stating to put disconnects on the negative terminal?. It is waterproof so you could mount it on the battery box
You could use either style as your disconnect by simply pressing the "Press to Test" button (the red button in the photos that will trip the breaker) and not re-setting. As for putting the disconnect on the negative side, my previous trailer had it on the positive side and I saw no negative consequences (no pun intended). In fact, reading through my trailer documentation for the power control center (Progressive Dynamics PD4000) it tells you how to hard wire in a battery disconnect on the positive side on the first page of the installation instructions so I think you would be okay.
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:04 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Mustang65 View Post
...You still need to isolate the cause of the blown fuses, before it plays hell on your camping trips.

Just my thoughts,

Don
Because it has not happened again since the day of delivery I'm wondering if maybe the individual items, the tongue jack and the slide out, didn't just need to be exercised and loosened up. Broke in, if you will. I'll keep an eye on the things you mentioned though, just in case. Thanks
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:09 AM   #12
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Idd stick with the blade fuse set up and keep searching for the cause if it blowing if continues. Seems going to the CB is just a convient way of band-aiding the issue.
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