Adding a light switch

nylyon · 05-04-2011, 10:23 AM

My new 30.5 BHLT has the read bedroom. Unfortunately Jayco didn't put a wall mounted light switch? This really doesn't make sense because it's obvious that kids will be using this area but anyway...... I want to add a wall mounted light switch but have questions before starting to dig into this. Above the bedroom is the loft. When I remove the cushions from the loft there is a plywood base. I am thinking that I can remove (or at lease partially remove) the plywood base to gain access to the light wiring, but does anyone know what the wall construction is? Can I fish a wire through the wall?

Denise · 05-04-2011, 10:43 AM

I'm going to watch this thread with interest! I would like to see a wall switch back by the sink near the bunks

wiscampsin · 05-04-2011, 11:59 AM

Have you considered using wiremolding. Here's a link.
http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...atalogId=10053
If you search you'll see they make corners,elbows, and other stuff too.

nylyon · 05-04-2011, 12:07 PM

Thank you for the link. I might go that route if attempting to conceal the wiring behind the walls and ceiling fails. I always seem to run into challenges when running wires. I live in a contemporary log house, and running wires in a log home is a real trick!

Hopefully I'll be able to get to this next weekend and get the loft opened up. I think that a worst case would be a hybrid approach, where I can fish some of the wire and use the molding for others. My biggest question is what does the inside of the inside walls look like?

Terry · 05-04-2011, 12:16 PM

Might be a little difficult to fish depending on the wall. They have a lot of cross bracing in them, especially around the bunks for stability. Pull up my doc library (link in sig), goto the Jayco section and you will see two .PDFs on walls. The measurements may not be the same, but the design is probably pretty similar.

Rustic Eagle · 05-04-2011, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nylyon

snip......but does anyone know what the wall construction is? Can I fish a wire through the wall?

Been there, tried it, and will work only under "all conditions perfect". Depends on which wall....., if it's an outer wall, probability is extremely low unless you are able to follow an existing wire path (challenge in it's own right). IMO stay away from outer walls.

Inner walls "may" be doable, but you still have to get "into" the wall through the top wood framing (existing wire path?), and also over to the wall from your light fixture. Intermediate wood cross framing can also become an issue.

You don't want to disturb insulation in the ceiling and/or outer walls fishing wire through either.

Last resort, use the wire-molding as suggested by 'Wiscampsin'.

Bob

nylyon · 05-04-2011, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tafische

Might be a little difficult to fish depending on the wall. They have a lot of cross bracing in them, especially around the bunks for stability. Pull up my doc library (link in sig), goto the Jayco section and you will see two .PDFs on walls. The measurements may not be the same, but the design is probably pretty similar.

Great PDF's. I'll try to get a picture later, but the wall that I am talking about is between the rear bedroom and the living area. It does not run up to the ceiling, but to the floor of the loft. I feel certain that if I were able to lift up the floor of the loft I could get this done all from up top including drilling (with a long extension) any holes in horizontal braces. Of course that would involve removing the railing and the floor of the loft. Lot of work for a switch, but I'm dumb enough to give it a try.

Terry · 05-04-2011, 01:04 PM

You know this got me thinking (yeah I know)...and I googled around -- there are a lot of 12 volt remote control relay system out there for vehicle accessories. You could pull down the light and install the base relay and then modify the remote control to connect to a standard switch. That might be an easier and cleaner solution.

nylyon · 05-04-2011, 01:16 PM

Ok, here's what we're talking about. I want to put the switch on the wall by the ladder. Fortunately I am not dealing with outside walls, or difficult access and that everything can be done from above. The floor seems to be screwed on along with the railing. If they could be lifted up, I think that the wires could easily be run.

Here's the wall where I would like the switch.

Way in the back is where that light is.

This is the floor of the loft.

Spike99 · 05-04-2011, 01:47 PM

How much light and how often is it needed?

If simple low amount of lighting or only for short periods of time, I'd buy a simple low cost "hockey puck" light at my local dollar store. Something that takes internal batteries. For example: http://www.custom-product.com/upload...-light-556.jpg

Within the light, one can use normal or re-chargeable batteries. Do shop around because prices and light assembly does vary. And, I hear LED is low energy usage - which makes batteries last longer.

If needing lots of lighting or one hates dealing with batteries, simply install a "wired" 12V dome light. Something with its own off/on switch. In unable to feed the 12V wires (small 14 guage) behind the walls, use track lighting on the wall surface. Same track lighting one uses for home stereo wires. For example: http://www.reinharttrailers.com/imag...dome-light.jpg
Note: IMO, "generic fit" 12V dome lights at automotive parts stores are much less expensive then same dome light at RV parts store.

Hope this helps in your research....

juicedcummins · 05-30-2011, 09:33 PM

I noticed the need for a switch for the little ones today when loading mine up. They should have put a switch in.

Another thing I noticed was there is only 1 heater duct in the main living area and it is under the t-stat. My next mod will be pulling the bottom of the pantry out and putting in a t and an adjustable vent to the forward side of the pantry. Using adjustable vents there and in the bunk room should work out all right to control and spread out the heat.

nylyon · 05-30-2011, 09:40 PM

I am going to attack this one soon. My last trip I had to turn on and off the light too many times for comfort. I think that they should let the guys who design the cabinets do a little more design on the rest of the camper. The cabinets seem really well made, while the rest of the camper is on the rough side.

I had to repair a shelf, dinette extension, air conditioner mounting, cabinet lock and couch mounting screws and it was only my second time out. Still love the design and most seems well made, but for the cost of this I expect a little more.

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