Anderson levelers

[Edd505]

I just saw a video on Anderson Levelers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4JQV15VzBc

If they work I can dump some of the Lego blocks. Does anyone have experience with the product?

[ecoboosteagle]

I have them and highly recommend them. Very easy to level and they chock as well. You will most likely have to trim a couple of inches but easily done with a hacksaw. They are just a little tight between the wheel wells and when you trim them it makes it easier to drive off with out worrying about them getting wedged between tires.

[motorbreath]

Originally Posted by ecoboosteagle

I have them and highly recommend them. Very easy to level and they chock as well. You will most likely have to trim a couple of inches but easily done with a hacksaw. They are just a little tight between the wheel wells and when you trim them it makes it easier to drive off with out worrying about them getting wedged between tires.

My neighbour scared me off of them, he said that for heavier trailers they tend to sink into the ground since they are more narrow than the blocks. Is that true? I would definitely prefer them over the blocks.

[ecoboosteagle]

they are 6" wide (slightly narrower than my tires - 225 65 15) on soft ground they will sink a bit. I wouldn't say much more than the tire itself. At 99% of the campgrounds that I have been it is packed gravel and I get no sinking

[motorbreath]

Originally Posted by ecoboosteagle

they are 6" wide (slightly narrower than my tires - 225 65 15) on soft ground they will sink a bit. I wouldn't say much more than the tire itself. At 99% of the campgrounds that I have been it is packed gravel and I get no sinking

That is what I figured, I will definitely pick-up a set. It seems that whenever I need to level the trailer one level of blocks is too little, and two levels are too much.

[SilverEscape]

We love the simplicity of them. We came from a single axle trailer using the BAL leveller so wanted something as easy. This is almost as easy as the BAL. Haven't used anything else on a dual axle though, so nothing to compare to in that respect.

[dpi7800]

As far as sinking is concerned the Lynx blocks are open spans with less surface area than the Anderson, so there should actually be less sinking, right. Providing you use the Lxnx brand. Not sure if the other commercially produce blocks are designed any different.

[Lady Fitzgerald]

Originally Posted by motorbreath

My neighbour scared me off of them, he said that for heavier trailers they tend to sink into the ground since they are more narrow than the blocks. Is that true? I would definitely prefer them over the blocks.

Get some 3/4" pressure treated plywood and make a base for each side of the trailer that is long enough span the length of the area the tires set on plus the length of one of the levelers plus a bit added to ensure you won't roll off the end of the base. Make each base as wide as you feel you would need to avoid sinking into soft ground. It wouldn't hurt to bevel the ends but 3/4" isn't all that much of a bump for trailer tires.

Just throw down the bases behind the tire, back up onto the bases until the forward tire is barely on the base, position the levelers on the low side of the trailer, then finish backing up until you are level. If the levelers slide on the bases, stick some antiskid tape onto the levelers.

[herewego]

We started a thread on this a few months back They work great !
my wife and i should get a commission !!!

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f7...ets-24218.html

[donellen30]

Originally Posted by herewego

We started a thread on this a few months back They work great !
my wife and i should get a commission !!!

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f7...ets-24218.html

Thanks to your thread, I bought a set. Love it! So much easier than the blocks. Only have one though, and keep meaning to buy a second one. Only problem we have run into with it is sometimes the chock gets lodged too tightly and we will have to pull the MH up just slightly to be able to pull the chock and back off the leveler.

.

[Lady Fitzgerald]

Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald

Get some 3/4" pressure treated plywood and make a base for each side of the trailer that is long enough span the length of the area the tires set on plus the length of one of the levelers plus a bit added to ensure you won't roll off the end of the base. Make each base as wide as you feel you would need to avoid sinking into soft ground. It wouldn't hurt to bevel the ends but 3/4" isn't all that much of a bump for trailer tires.

Just throw down the bases behind the tire, back up onto the bases until the forward tire is barely on the base, position the levelers on the low side of the trailer, then finish backing up until you are level. If the levelers slide on the bases, stick some antiskid tape onto the levelers.

Another idea occurred to me. Get two sets and bolt them side by side to get double the width.

[glsimms]

I wonder if these will work on my X23B hybrid TT as the wheels are close together? It would be great if I can eliminate the yellow stacking blocks.....

[North of 49°]

Andersen says they can be trimmed to hel

[Edd505]

Originally Posted by herewego

We started a thread on this a few months back They work great !
my wife and i should get a commission !!!

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f7...ets-24218.html

I should have known and searched. With all the good reviews two sets on order

[Buckeye Hunter]

So does anyone actually level with a 4ft level on the side wall? I have used the stick on levels, but since side to side is measured off the front wall, the actual plumb of the front wall is irrelevant. This way would cause a non plumb wall or a bubble under the smooth side or a non smooth wall to throw level off.

[Edd505]

Originally Posted by Buckeye Hunter

So does anyone actually level with a 4ft level on the side wall? I have used the stick on levels, but since side to side is measured off the front wall, the actual plumb of the front wall is irrelevant. This way would cause a non plumb wall or a bubble under the smooth side or a non smooth wall to throw level off.

How else would you level? How do you level your stick on's? Use a four foot level and get the stick on's too match same as I did with the Jumbo on the front of mine. The Anderson looks like I won't be driving on and off to get the JUMBO bubble where it needs to be. I did note each mark on the Jumbo is about 1" so I did have a starting place for leveling. Finished outside I use a leveling app on the phone inside on the counter top. I had doubts on the app but it does work.

[skylarkva]

Originally Posted by Buckeye Hunter

So does anyone actually level with a 4ft level on the side wall? I have used the stick on levels, but since side to side is measured off the front wall, the actual plumb of the front wall is irrelevant. This way would cause a non plumb wall or a bubble under the smooth side or a non smooth wall to throw level off.

4' level in the front luggage compartment- both for side to side and front to back. Comes in handy for leveling my Camp Chef stove too!

[Buckeye Hunter]

Originally Posted by Edd505

How else would you level? How do you level your stick on's? Use a four foot level and get the stick on's too match same as I did with the Jumbo on the front of mine. The Anderson looks like I won't be driving on and off to get the JUMBO bubble where it needs to be. I did note each mark on the Jumbo is about 1" so I did have a starting place for leveling. Finished outside I use a leveling app on the phone inside on the counter top. I had doubts on the app but it does work.

My question is not the use of the 4 ft level, but how it was being used. I understand 4 foot level across the tongue, that is how I level. For mounting the stick on levels I leveled the tongue, then checked in fridge and a couple other places. I have always used the level parallel to the direction I was leveling, not perpendicular. I worked construction for a while. That method of using a level was for checking the plumb of the wall, not the level of the floor. I just have never in almost 40 years of camping seen anyone using a 4 ft level vertically on a side wall to level.

[Edd505]

Originally Posted by Buckeye Hunter

My question is not the use of the 4 ft level, but how it was being used. I understand 4 foot level across the tongue, that is how I level. For mounting the stick on levels I leveled the tongue, then checked in fridge and a couple other places. I have always used the level parallel to the direction I was leveling, not perpendicular. I worked construction for a while. That method of using a level was for checking the plumb of the wall, not the level of the floor. I just have never in almost 40 years of camping seen anyone using a 4 ft level vertically on a side wall to level.

The assumption is the wall is square with the floor so if the wall is plumb the floors level. I might be wrong but even a little out of square I don't think wouldn't matter. We might get an engineer to do the math just how out of square it would need to be to effect the fridge. Ever seen a house the was perfectly square? I open doors in the 5er and they stay put I'm pretty level.

[thearrys]

Does anyone have recommendations for what to do when the Andersen levelers don't give you enough height? Other than find a new campsite that is.