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Old 10-27-2013, 03:51 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by troutslayer View Post
Wow! You have 3/8" plywood??? Our plywood was so thin it only had one side!
I beefed our up to 1/2" and added supports.
We're adding another piece of 3/8" (on top of the original piece) that covers the full bench length.
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Old 10-27-2013, 04:14 PM   #92
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Make the doors for outside storage at least as big as the storage area. It is tough getting things into the storage area through the tiny doors. How about an inspection of each trailer at the factor? I am sure they didn't make a dime on our trailer because of sloppy work at the factory that had to be fixed at the dealers. Our trailer was in for warranty work so many times for so many different things and most of the items could have been avoided with a slower production line and a real inspection. It seems that currently if they leave the factory with all four wheels turning it is ready for sale.
The door on my rear storage is not tall enough, hard to get things in. I notice the later models 28/26BH have a much larger door there now, wish mine had it.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:44 PM   #93
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We really like our 2013 Eagle 284BHS. A few fixes/changes would be nice like others have said...
1) Lights inside the cargo areas, I think they added them for the 2014 but I can't find any wires to tap into to add them myself.
2) Vent Fan in the front bedroom like they have in the bathroom, or at least the wires to add our own.
3) Make the night stands have a top that opens for more storage or laundry use.
4) Better outside speakers
5) Change the tub to a shower enclosure with a door so we don't end up with water on the floor each time we take a shower. Who really take a bath in an RV?
6) AC duct to the lower bunk, gets too hot in there, just not enough circulation without adding a fan.
7) A better design of the pullout tray/bike rack on the back. Have not found a way to put 4 bikes on it securely. Tired of putting a couple inside the trailer when traveling.
Overall we have had good luck with ours and look forward to many years of the family having fun.
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:18 PM   #94
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Already been said but definitely LED lighting, inside and out. Have a Greyhawk 31SS and one of the things I really struggle with is putting in the rear slide transit bar, the space is really tight and it's hard to get one hand in there let alone two. Would be nice to see someone design a slide transit bar that could easily be placed with one hand.
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:24 PM   #95
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Greyhawk 3100SS. Either a bumper that will store the sewer hose or if possible, enlarge the built in hose storage so it will actually hold a real hose with standard fittings.
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Old 01-30-2014, 04:51 AM   #96
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Greyhawk 3100SS. Either a bumper that will store the sewer hose or if possible, enlarge the built in hose storage so it will actually hold a real hose with standard fittings.
X2. Don't you wonder how many times that's been given as feedback?
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Old 05-25-2017, 04:35 PM   #97
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Been a few years since this thread has seen the light of day but instead of starting yet another complaint thread, I thought I would just "pile on" to this one.

I actually have very few complaints about our 2017 Jayco 330RSTS, but choosing the one "pet peeve" that seems to irritate me the most is how Jayco chose to pre plumb the washer hookups in our TT.

A month or so after we took delivery of our TT, we noticed that the Girard Tankless water heater was turning on when we flushed the toilet. WTH??? Long story short, this line, when is left to just lie there (no washer) will over time, tend to collect any and all air in the lines which in turn will cause enough fluctuation of the water in the heater when a faucet/toilet is used, that it thinks someone turned on the heater, even if it's cold water.

In order to bleed these lines, or winterize/flush them, you have to remove everything from that side of the pass thru storage, remove the fasteners holding the lines to the ceiling of the front pass thru, then push the drain pipe and one of the water lines as far over as possible while carefully wiggling the other line/shutoff valve thru the hole they pass thru. Since they go up about a foot into this void behind the closet wall, I haven't found any other way to access the shutoff valves. Once both are carefully brought down into the pass thru, then I have to twist each line about 45 degrees to attach a 10' hose to them so I can bleed them outside the pass thru. Then, not wanting them hanging down into the storage area and twisted like that, you have to again carefully feed them back up into the hole behind the closet wall and re-attach them to the ceiling.

Going to have to do something different with these lines because whoever the engineer was that designed this setup obviously never had any intentions of actually USING it.
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