Atwood Water Heater Leaking - CG6AA-10E

[Ewad]

I'm new to the Jayco owners and posting hoping someone can help with a leaking water heater. I have a 2010 Jayco Jay Flight G2 25RKS

My story: I winterized, and bypassed the water heater. This is the 8th year I have done the exact same procedure.

Today I discovered a small leak in the hot water output (top) connection on the tank. Water was dripping from the bottom of the top tank insert where the PEX female connector screws on. I first thought it was a cone washer that failed and replaced it. Not so much.

I have attached two photos, #1 is an overview of the back of the tank, showing both the cold intake (on bottom) and the hot output (top). #2 is a close up zoom of just the top hot output.

I made two observations for #2 the closeup.

First, the female PEX connector appears to screw onto a gray plastic insert which threads into the tank. I know its plastic, when I had it apart to replace the cone washer. It looks like a plumber’s putty was used to seal the insert.

Second, if you expand the close-up photo for a closer view, you will see a very small horizonal crack just below the insert corner (6'oclock position). This is where I believe the water drip is coming from. To be sure, I used paper towel on the gray outer device treads to see if the cone washer was the source - it was not. The water drip collects right at the crack.

Attwood - Dometic has discontinued this model and I not finding any parts, i.e., a new gray plastic threaded insert for the hot output.

I hoping someone will have some insight that may help me.

When I googled plumbers’ putty, it suggests one reason to use it, was the threads are not bonded and the threaded connection can be removed. Not sure about that.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

[norty1]

That grey fitting is a check valve. Get a new one made of brass and seal it with Teflon tape. Hopefully that will fix you up. I would replace the sealant on the cold side with Teflon tape also.

There are lots of threads that detail the procedure for replacing it on JOF.

[Ewad]

Follow-up to OP. The grey plastic insert thought to be check valve turned out to be a coupler. It backed out quite easily, surprisingly so. I figured that was the reason it was leaking - pipe dope was compromised over the past 12 years.

I had already purchased a brass check valve (CV), so I installed it. I used Teflon thread tape to seal the valve.

After getting the CV installed, I filled the tank, to see if the water leak was fixed -- it was not, and leaked in the same exact spot at the coupler.

I turned on the gas to heat the water to see if heat would help seal the Teflon. It did not. See attached pic. Note what appears as water calcium (?) staining on the tank from the initial leak - which must have been ongoing for awhile.

Removed the CV and re-taped with Teflon tape, using far more than the first attempt. The CV did not seat into the tank flange as far as it did the first attempt - I'm guessing because of the added thickness of the extra tape. The leak reappeared, only much less. I put a wrench on the CV and gave it more torque - its really tight!! At this point, the leak has disappeared.

I initially thought there may be a hair-line crack in the tank CV flange, but ruled that out, because the additional thickness of the re-taped CV would increase the crack, especially so when I torqued tighter.

At this point, the CV is not leaking, but not sure I trust it to hold. I re-heated the tank water and ran really hot water through the CV to see if anything changed - it did not, -- not leaking.

Unless I'm missing something, its matter of keeping an eye on it for leaks.

I'm still puzzled by the new CV with Teflon Tape leaking in the same exact spot as the coupler with Pipe Dope.

Any insight is welcomed!!!

[norty1]

That location is a very common leak point in every rv I have owned. Maybe from the weight and bouncing around but I just check mine every so often and make sure it's tight.

You may have found the sweet spot where it does not leak. Sure hope so.

PS, I think that back in 2010 they may not have put the check valve on but either way it's a place to inspect.

[us71na]

During my engineering career, I worked on a project for a company to eliminate leaks in pipes for the products the company made. What I determined is that Teflon tape does a really poor job of sealing pipes. Yes, almost everyone uses it but it is really a poor sealant. I would suggest getting some 565™ PST® Thread Sealant. Remove all traces of teflon tape from the male and female threads, apply the PST and to the fitting let it set for an hour or so before pressurizing and your leak should be fixed.

[norty1]

I concur!
I use teflon tape and loads of it because it's so easy but it is not infallible and easily replaced with a good grade of pipe sealant , that is heat proof.

[Marcm157]

I use Loctite 565 often - Some of the greatest stuff out there...

[muckinfuss]

Originally Posted by us71na

... What I determined is that Teflon tape does a really poor job of sealing pipes. Yes, almost everyone uses it but it is really a poor sealant.

Couldn't agree more. There are actually several types of T-tape performance specs and blue is recommended for water fittings, yellow for both liquid or vapor gas fittings etc. White tape is spec'd for lubricating threads. Last I knew there were over 6 color codes for specific applications. Most plumbers I know only use enhanced pipe dope for both since it works, is one product does all, is simple to use and most building codes where I've been don't permit tape.

[us71na]

Originally Posted by norty1

I concur!
I use teflon tape and loads of it because it's so easy but it is not infallible and easily replaced with a good grade of pipe sealant , that is heat proof.

Loctite 565 is good to 300 degrees F., your RV water heater should never get that hot.

[muckinfuss]

More better: https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/...e_si_5331.html

RPM International owns the Henkel/Loctite brands and is located 3 miles from my house. A neighbor is the one who recommended this stuff to me about 12 years ago.

[ChrisPinKitchener]

I have exactly the same problem, on what I believe is exactly the same water heater... mine is a 6 gallon in a 2010 Jayco 32BHDS travel trailer (which will remain parked on its current site until I sell it!).

What Check Valve did you use? A link to a spec/purchase location would be most appreciated!

Thanks,

Chris

[ChrisPinKitchener]

Hello all,

My 2010 Jayco 32 BHDS has what I recall is an Atwood 6 gallon water heater, with the 3 separate valve type bypass. Unfortunately, the valve to the top fitting (hot side) is now leaking (fortunately only when in the 'On' position, or we would have no water at all!).

I'm looking to replace this valve, but have questions...
1) What size valve am I looking for? (I have no experience working with PEX, only copper) Any suggestions for a specific valve?
2) What tips are there to remove the hose clamps? I'm thinking hacksaw or dremel and a pair of good pliers.
3) Suggestions on replacement hose clamps... are 'standard' hose clamps good enough?

The sharp-eyed out there will also notice evidence of a slow leak on the hot water fitting. The leak is from the pipe dope around the grey insert to which the 90 degree elbow connects. I plan on carefully removing that fitting and adding more pipe dope and replacing it. Should I replace the grey insert with a check valve, and is there a specific check valve to use?

Thank you for your assistance,

Chris

[JFlightRisk]

Originally Posted by ChrisPinKitchener

I have exactly the same problem, on what I believe is exactly the same water heater... mine is a 6 gallon in a 2010 Jayco 32BHDS travel trailer (which will remain parked on its current site until I sell it!).

What Check Valve did you use? A link to a spec/purchase location would be most appreciated!

Thanks,

Chris

Welcome to the Forum!

This is the check valve I purchased as a spare to replace our OE if and when it fails. Available on Amazon.com.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-P234...7797911&sr=8-3

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by ChrisPinKitchener

Hello all,

My 2010 Jayco 32 BHDS has what I recall is an Atwood 6 gallon water heater, with the 3 separate valve type bypass. Unfortunately, the valve to the top fitting (hot side) is now leaking (fortunately only when in the 'On' position, or we would have no water at all!).

I'm looking to replace this valve, but have questions...
1) What size valve am I looking for? (I have no experience working with PEX, only copper) Any suggestions for a specific valve?
2) What tips are there to remove the hose clamps? I'm thinking hacksaw or dremel and a pair of good pliers.
3) Suggestions on replacement hose clamps... are 'standard' hose clamps good enough?

The sharp-eyed out there will also notice evidence of a slow leak on the hot water fitting. The leak is from the pipe dope around the grey insert to which the 90 degree elbow connects. I plan on carefully removing that fitting and adding more pipe dope and replacing it. Should I replace the grey insert with a check valve, and is there a specific check valve to use?

Thank you for your assistance,

Chris

Welcome aboard!

If you can go to Home Depot, that is where I bought the crimp fittings like you have. I have not seen them at Menards, never looked at Lowes. It is 1/2 pex tubing, there is an irrigation version too, so make sure to grab the correct rings, they are different and irrigation will not clamp down tight enough. They also have a crimping tool (irrigation section), I paid about $12 for mine 5 years ago. The rings are super easy to apply.

To remove the old metal ring, I just used a 6-7" side cutter. and clipped the metal ears off the ring.

As for the fitting at the tank. I had the exact same one leak on me too. First time I just tightened up the pipe nipple. It held nice for a year, than it started leaking again. Second time I removed it, cleaned it, and applied Teflon tape and pipe dope. No more leaks.

Not the tool I bought, but it is very simular
https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-Tools-...17856788&psc=1

[ChrisPinKitchener]

Thank you!

I have ordered appropriate bits (including some Loctite 565) off Amazon; I’ll put my plumbing skills to the rest this weekend.

Funny story: Back in the day I worked as a consultant at the Oetiker plant in Ontario that made most (all?) of the ear type clamps in the North American market. I guess I should have picked up a crimping tool while I was there!

ChrisP