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Old 08-19-2011, 03:07 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by tafische View Post
You need to double check if your 7 pin is putting out 12 volts. By default the GMC +12 is not hooked up - you have to install a fuse in what they refer to as "stud 1" under the hood (I assume it is still the same on a 2011). If it had the tow package - it should have come with a brake controller harness and usually there is a fuse taped to the harness.

There are also two fuses located in your load center that could be causing the issue, but my guess is the under hood fuse.
Does this apply to trucks equipped with the GM integrated brake controller too? My 09 GMC has the integreated brake controller so the harness (per se) would have already been hooked up to the controller. I assumed that the 7 pin would be hot, but since reading this, I'm going to check it out and make sure.
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Old 08-19-2011, 03:43 PM   #12
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The OP indicated he has measured 12v at the 7 pin TV connector, so there must be something else going on. Perhaps tafische is correct and the TV should supply all the TT 12v circuits. Maybe one of the circuit breakers or fuse in the load center panel is to blame?
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Old 08-19-2011, 04:02 PM   #13
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The OP indicated he has measured 12v at the 7 pin TV connector, so there must be something else going on. Perhaps tafische is correct and the TV should supply all the TT 12v circuits. Maybe one of the circuit breakers or fuse in the load center panel is to blame?
I think there is still a little confusion (at least in my mind) -- the OP corrected himself and said his +12v running lights were working, but I am not sure he said he actually measured +12 on the 7 pin.

bklabar - can you confirm if you did in fact measure and get 12 volts across pin 4 and pin 1 of the tow vehicle? If not, that is where I think we need to start.

Quote:
But the propane requires 12-volt to work.
As an aside, actually running the fridge on both propane and 120v require 12 volts -- the control board is twelve volt only, so if you loose your converter and battery power you are also out of luck.

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Does this apply to trucks equipped with the GM integrated brake controller too? My 09 GMC has the integreated brake controller so the harness (per se) would have already been hooked up to the controller. I assumed that the 7 pin would be hot, but since reading this, I'm going to check it out and make sure.
Not sure -- but most GM trucks that I have ever seen did not come from the factory with the fuse installed. I bet there are a lot of folks going down the road not realizing they could benefit from the power provided by the 7 pin!


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Old 08-19-2011, 04:26 PM   #14
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Yes, I have full power at the 7 pin....learned that lesson the hard way about a month ago when I picked the trailer up! GM does not connect the cable due to possibility of corrosion with the connection energized all the time if it's not used. (acording to our local GM service dept.)
As of now, it seems like my TV will only charge the battery, not power the interior...if that's the way it's supposed to be, that's fine, but if not, I'd like to figure out why I can't power anything inside with the TV.
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Old 08-19-2011, 09:19 PM   #15
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bklabar,
fully read below and try this test, and see what you get;
with the 120v power cord connected to shore power, the TT battery disconnected, and the 7 pin TV connector disconnected from the TT, then measure for voltage at the loose TT battery connection. If your converter is working, and the wiring is good from there to the TT battery, you should see the 12 volts. Next, measure for the 12v at the loose 7 pin connector at the TT tongue. These two tests will confirm continuity from the converter to the TT battery and then onward to the TT 7 pin plug. Note; with the TT battery removed from the circuit, I expect the converter voltage will float a little higher, perhaps as high as 15 volts. It is after all meant to charge the battery and does so by supplying a slightly higher voltage. This being the case, I suggest you turn off the fridge, the lights and any other items which use the 12v, during the time you do this test.
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Old 08-20-2011, 01:38 PM   #16
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bklabar,
fully read below and try this test, and see what you get;
with the 120v power cord connected to shore power, the TT battery disconnected, and the 7 pin TV connector disconnected from the TT, then measure for voltage at the loose TT battery connection. If your converter is working, and the wiring is good from there to the TT battery, you should see the 12 volts. Next, measure for the 12v at the loose 7 pin connector at the TT tongue. These two tests will confirm continuity from the converter to the TT battery and then onward to the TT 7 pin plug. Note; with the TT battery removed from the circuit, I expect the converter voltage will float a little higher, perhaps as high as 15 volts. It is after all meant to charge the battery and does so by supplying a slightly higher voltage. This being the case, I suggest you turn off the fridge, the lights and any other items which use the 12v, during the time you do this test.
I have 13.6v to both the battery wiring and the trailer side of the 7pin when connected to shore power. So, I guess that's how it's wired...no direct 12v from the TV to the TT, just to the battery...THanks to all for the help, and input!
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Old 08-20-2011, 02:02 PM   #17
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That does not make sense to me. If it charges your battery and your battery powers the cabin, then it only makes sense that the TV will power the cabin. I verified and that is indeed how mine works.

Your TV should power the cabin.
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Old 08-21-2011, 11:26 AM   #18
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That does not make sense to me. If it charges your battery and your battery powers the cabin, then it only makes sense that the TV will power the cabin. I verified and that is indeed how mine works.

Your TV should power the cabin.
If everything's wired correctly, the TV has to be charging the trailer's battery. Otherwise, the trailer's battery could discharge to the point where there wouldn't be enough power to effectively engage the brakes if the trailer broke away from the TV.

I know it works this way on mine because I've charged the trailer's battery while dry camping by simply connecting the umbilical cord to the TV.
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Old 08-21-2011, 03:47 PM   #19
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That does not make sense to me. If it charges your battery and your battery powers the cabin, then it only makes sense that the TV will power the cabin. I verified and that is indeed how mine works.

Your TV should power the cabin.
It's possible there is diode isolation. This is sometimes used to prevent the lights in the TT from draining the TV battery, for when the TV and TT are plugged together. The Diode would allow the TV to charge the TT battery, but separate the rest of the TT from the TV.

Since the OP has tested the flow from the converter toward the TT tongue and found it to work, and the reverse does not work, I would say there is diode isolation built into that TT.
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Old 08-21-2011, 06:12 PM   #20
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I will put my $ on the fuse at the battery...
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