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Old 08-18-2011, 08:30 PM   #1
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Question bad battery no 12v from TV

I have a quick question....just got back from a trip that was a few hours long, and found the fridge was barely cool. Checked and found that the fuse at the battery was blown... I hooked the truck back up, and realized that there were no lights, or anything else 12v. Shouldn't the trailer have full 12v power from my TV? Or does the break in the battery circuit kill all 12v power to the remainder of the trailer?
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Old 08-18-2011, 08:36 PM   #2
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You need to double check if your 7 pin is putting out 12 volts. By default the GMC +12 is not hooked up - you have to install a fuse in what they refer to as "stud 1" under the hood (I assume it is still the same on a 2011). If it had the tow package - it should have come with a brake controller harness and usually there is a fuse taped to the harness.

There are also two fuses located in your load center that could be causing the issue, but my guess is the under hood fuse.



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Old 08-18-2011, 08:50 PM   #3
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I have the truck all set up....12+ volts at the 7 pin(that was an earlier issue a few weeks ago!) ...once the fuse was back up and working, all 12v items in the trailer worked fine. I also tested the truck power by pulling the fuse and the voltage into the fuse line while connected to the TV as 13v...yet no lights in the trailer...put the fuse back in, lights work...
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:36 PM   #4
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Ok so not sure I totally understand where you are...

Here is how it is setup --

Battery <-> fuse <-> TV power input from 7 pin <-> Load Center reverse polarity fuses <-> Load Center -> trailer lights

If your lights work when hooked to the TV, but don't work unplugged then check the battery/fuse/connectors. They can easily become corroded and even if the fuse it good, it will not work (ask me how I know!). If you have a multimeter, you should be able to put it on the battery and see mid 12 volts when the TV is not hooked up and then high 12 to 13 when the TV is hooked up.



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Old 08-19-2011, 05:26 AM   #5
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my apologies...running lights, signals, etc work fine...its the interior trailer 12v power that does not work when the umbilical is connected to the TV AND the battery fuse is out/blown or battery is disconnected. Should I be getting interior power straight from the TV? I understand that the microwave, television, etc, 120v stuff will not work, but I would expect the 12v things to work.
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Old 08-19-2011, 07:00 AM   #6
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When that fuse is blown you will have no power to the RV... as the cord goes thru that fuse....
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Old 08-19-2011, 10:15 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by bklabar View Post
my apologies...running lights, signals, etc work fine...its the interior trailer 12v power that does not work when the umbilical is connected to the TV AND the battery fuse is out/blown or battery is disconnected. Should I be getting interior power straight from the TV? I understand that the microwave, television, etc, 120v stuff will not work, but I would expect the 12v things to work.
It is my understanding, that the purpose of the 12v hot supply from the TV is for charging the TT battery. I think there is isolation built in at the TT, such that the TV only supplies the TT battery charge, and not the rest of the TT circuits. As I said, this is my understanding of the function, and looking at the wiring circuit would be needed to comfirm if I'm correct.
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Old 08-19-2011, 10:28 AM   #8
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On mine - there is no isolation and the battery fuse just goes to the battery --- so if the vehicle is hooked up and there is no battery (or fuse is blown) - YES - I do get power inside my TT. The +12 7 pin wire basically is spliced into the wire that goes from the battery to the load center.

Did you install the fuse under the hood of your TV? By default the 7 pin is NOT hot on a GMC and you have to install that fuse to make it work.



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Old 08-19-2011, 12:12 PM   #9
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I have a quick question....just got back from a trip that was a few hours long, and found the fridge was barely cool. Checked and found that the fuse at the battery was blown... Shouldn't the trailer have full 12v power from my TV?
Just curious??? My fridge works on 110v or propane. Not 12 volt.
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Old 08-19-2011, 01:00 PM   #10
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Just curious??? My fridge works on 110v or propane. Not 12 volt.
But the propane requires 12-volt to work.
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Old 08-19-2011, 02:07 PM   #11
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You need to double check if your 7 pin is putting out 12 volts. By default the GMC +12 is not hooked up - you have to install a fuse in what they refer to as "stud 1" under the hood (I assume it is still the same on a 2011). If it had the tow package - it should have come with a brake controller harness and usually there is a fuse taped to the harness.

There are also two fuses located in your load center that could be causing the issue, but my guess is the under hood fuse.
Does this apply to trucks equipped with the GM integrated brake controller too? My 09 GMC has the integreated brake controller so the harness (per se) would have already been hooked up to the controller. I assumed that the 7 pin would be hot, but since reading this, I'm going to check it out and make sure.
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Old 08-19-2011, 02:43 PM   #12
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The OP indicated he has measured 12v at the 7 pin TV connector, so there must be something else going on. Perhaps tafische is correct and the TV should supply all the TT 12v circuits. Maybe one of the circuit breakers or fuse in the load center panel is to blame?
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Old 08-19-2011, 03:02 PM   #13
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The OP indicated he has measured 12v at the 7 pin TV connector, so there must be something else going on. Perhaps tafische is correct and the TV should supply all the TT 12v circuits. Maybe one of the circuit breakers or fuse in the load center panel is to blame?
I think there is still a little confusion (at least in my mind) -- the OP corrected himself and said his +12v running lights were working, but I am not sure he said he actually measured +12 on the 7 pin.

bklabar - can you confirm if you did in fact measure and get 12 volts across pin 4 and pin 1 of the tow vehicle? If not, that is where I think we need to start.

Quote:
But the propane requires 12-volt to work.
As an aside, actually running the fridge on both propane and 120v require 12 volts -- the control board is twelve volt only, so if you loose your converter and battery power you are also out of luck.

Quote:
Does this apply to trucks equipped with the GM integrated brake controller too? My 09 GMC has the integreated brake controller so the harness (per se) would have already been hooked up to the controller. I assumed that the 7 pin would be hot, but since reading this, I'm going to check it out and make sure.
Not sure -- but most GM trucks that I have ever seen did not come from the factory with the fuse installed. I bet there are a lot of folks going down the road not realizing they could benefit from the power provided by the 7 pin!






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Old 08-19-2011, 03:26 PM   #14
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Yes, I have full power at the 7 pin....learned that lesson the hard way about a month ago when I picked the trailer up! GM does not connect the cable due to possibility of corrosion with the connection energized all the time if it's not used. (acording to our local GM service dept.)
As of now, it seems like my TV will only charge the battery, not power the interior...if that's the way it's supposed to be, that's fine, but if not, I'd like to figure out why I can't power anything inside with the TV.
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Old 08-19-2011, 08:19 PM   #15
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bklabar,
fully read below and try this test, and see what you get;
with the 120v power cord connected to shore power, the TT battery disconnected, and the 7 pin TV connector disconnected from the TT, then measure for voltage at the loose TT battery connection. If your converter is working, and the wiring is good from there to the TT battery, you should see the 12 volts. Next, measure for the 12v at the loose 7 pin connector at the TT tongue. These two tests will confirm continuity from the converter to the TT battery and then onward to the TT 7 pin plug. Note; with the TT battery removed from the circuit, I expect the converter voltage will float a little higher, perhaps as high as 15 volts. It is after all meant to charge the battery and does so by supplying a slightly higher voltage. This being the case, I suggest you turn off the fridge, the lights and any other items which use the 12v, during the time you do this test.
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Old 08-20-2011, 12:38 PM   #16
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bklabar,
fully read below and try this test, and see what you get;
with the 120v power cord connected to shore power, the TT battery disconnected, and the 7 pin TV connector disconnected from the TT, then measure for voltage at the loose TT battery connection. If your converter is working, and the wiring is good from there to the TT battery, you should see the 12 volts. Next, measure for the 12v at the loose 7 pin connector at the TT tongue. These two tests will confirm continuity from the converter to the TT battery and then onward to the TT 7 pin plug. Note; with the TT battery removed from the circuit, I expect the converter voltage will float a little higher, perhaps as high as 15 volts. It is after all meant to charge the battery and does so by supplying a slightly higher voltage. This being the case, I suggest you turn off the fridge, the lights and any other items which use the 12v, during the time you do this test.
I have 13.6v to both the battery wiring and the trailer side of the 7pin when connected to shore power. So, I guess that's how it's wired...no direct 12v from the TV to the TT, just to the battery...THanks to all for the help, and input!
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Old 08-20-2011, 01:02 PM   #17
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That does not make sense to me. If it charges your battery and your battery powers the cabin, then it only makes sense that the TV will power the cabin. I verified and that is indeed how mine works.

Your TV should power the cabin.



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Old 08-21-2011, 10:26 AM   #18
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That does not make sense to me. If it charges your battery and your battery powers the cabin, then it only makes sense that the TV will power the cabin. I verified and that is indeed how mine works.

Your TV should power the cabin.
If everything's wired correctly, the TV has to be charging the trailer's battery. Otherwise, the trailer's battery could discharge to the point where there wouldn't be enough power to effectively engage the brakes if the trailer broke away from the TV.

I know it works this way on mine because I've charged the trailer's battery while dry camping by simply connecting the umbilical cord to the TV.
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Old 08-21-2011, 02:47 PM   #19
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That does not make sense to me. If it charges your battery and your battery powers the cabin, then it only makes sense that the TV will power the cabin. I verified and that is indeed how mine works.

Your TV should power the cabin.
It's possible there is diode isolation. This is sometimes used to prevent the lights in the TT from draining the TV battery, for when the TV and TT are plugged together. The Diode would allow the TV to charge the TT battery, but separate the rest of the TT from the TV.

Since the OP has tested the flow from the converter toward the TT tongue and found it to work, and the reverse does not work, I would say there is diode isolation built into that TT.
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Old 08-21-2011, 05:12 PM   #20
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I will put my $ on the fuse at the battery...
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