City water to pump use problem.

[coyote1]

Hi to all. New here. Trying to get some insight to a very aggrevating problem. I have a 2012 Jayco Swift. I really like the camp, but there is a problem that no one seems able to diagnose.

I travel all over the U.S. to shooting competitions. Some places have city water hookups and some don't, so it is nice to have the options with the new camp. The trouble is this: My water pump works great when I need to use it, but if I hook up to city water for even a day or two, then go back to using the pump later, the pump is always toast. It runs, but will never build pressure. The dealership replaced 4 pumps when under warranty, but now it's off warranty and a real pain and expensive. They gave me several reasons and told me everytime that it was now fixed. When a new pump is put on, it immediately builds suction and pressure and works fine. Given that new ones out of the box work fine, that negates the "it needs primed" theory. The dealership last time said I needed a pressure regulator and that was the problem. I bought their 25.00 regulator and even turned the pressure way down the last time. The shower barely trickled enough water to take a shower. Sure enouth, when I got back and tried to use the pump, it failed.

It is really quite strange. I don't think the dealership knew what the problem was or maybe they didn't believe me. At this point, I am having to not use the city water hookup at all and just putting water in the tank and using that system. If anyone out there has any idea what could be happening, please let me know. I appreciate it. Right now, I would not buy another Jayco just because of this problem. Thx.

[TWP723]

Sounds like a vapor lock to me. That's what may be killing the pump. Just like a fuel pump on a vehicle can't pull fuel from the tank to the engine without having a vapor valve on the tank. The pump would run and eventually burn up. There's no release of pressure to allow the fuel to flow. I know, it's not an engine but same principle. I'm not really sure if there's a vapor valve on these units to be honest. Maybe some kind of "checkball" or "one-way valve maybe?"

Keep us posted!

[hoppers4]

Wow, 4 pump replacements is huge! In the ten years I've been rving I haven't had to replace a pump. I've even left the pump running dry overnight and it still worked the next day. Is there any chance a valve line-up requirement is being overlooked by you and changed by the dealer without your knowledge?

[coyote1]

The dealership has assured me more than once that nothing needs to be done to switch from city water to using tank/pump and vice versa. How it can possibly effect the pump is beyond me. Thanks for ideas.

[JFlightRisk]

If there's a warranty paper trail from the failed fixes, it might not hurt to run it up the food chain to the regional Jayco Rep, and see if the factory will help, either to fix for good, or re-imburse you for subsequent pumps you paid for. Sometimes the "squeaky wheel", ya know.

[tjpolsin]

- how do you fill your FW tank in the Swift? Gravity fill directly into the tank? or a valve line up change from your city water connection?
- do you have a check valve on the discharge of your pump? on most systems, the pump itself acts as a check valve to prevent city water from flowing into your FW tank.
- the water pump cycles based on discharge pressure. Meaning, if your pressure regulator is set low enough, your pump will cycle on to make up the difference.
- is your FW tank FULL when you try to use it after using city water?
- try opening ALL your faucets when you first turn on your pump. You should hear a change in tone from the pump as the valves are opened, AND you should feel air coming out of the faucets as you open them up.
- the pump SHOULD self-prime and get water flowing.

- write to jayco technical folks and get an answer.

keep us posted once you find the culprit.

Tim

[hoppers4]

This is a stretch, but is there any chance the check valve on the city water inlet is sticking open? This would cause water to flow out of the city water inlet fitting and would be easily noticed but it would cause that very problem as the water would flow out of the inlet instead of into the plumbing.

[coyote1]

Tjp: I have tried it with water in the tank. No difference. I fill with water hose from faucet into Fw inlet on side of camp. Yes, the pump in this case is the check valve. I just got back from a trip using the city water hookup for a week (phoenix). Back in Wyoming and tried to winterize by normal way of bypassing hot water tank and using winterizing hose. Put hose in a gallon of rv anitfreeze and turn on pump. No pressure same as always. I emailed service@jayco.com so we'll see if anything happens. I couldn't find anything on a regional center.

Hoppers: I would say that it has SOMETHING to do with the city water hookup check valve like you had suggested. How it can damage the pump so quick is beyond me. Thanks for help guys.

[ALJO]

Look for any problems in the hoses from the suction point. How shorter the hose to the pump how better it is. Also a hose with a bow up can give air pockets. If it draws air for a long period it will ruin the pump. Keep your pumps and put in a new kit so you always have a backup. They really should have back up valves in the tank to make it a better system. In old trailers of the 70's they had FW tanks inside the units and the pump suction was always level with the bottom of the tank. Good luck with all the testing.

[LiftedAWDAstro]

When you are hooked to city water, you don't turn the pump on do you?

When you try the pump sucking from the fresh water tank, do you open a nearby faucet to allow the air to purge out?

When you say the pump is ruined, do you mean it is totally fried or just isn't building pressure?

[RoyBraddy]

This is a typical water flow chart for trailers. Note the one way valves especially between the pump and city water port. This is what keeps the water pump sending fresh water out the city water port when you are not hooked up.

The only time I run my water pump is when i have water in the fresh water tank when camping at no hook up places. I don't need the water pump to presuure up anything when connected to city water. It has its own pressure...



Roy Ken

[Jagiven]

Never have heard of 4 bad pumps! You can buy a rebuild kit.

When on city water connection, do you run the pump?? The answer should be no. I have left mine on for a day or so, running dry and have never had any issues. I have heard of others who have left them on for a week running dry and no issues.

I think it is time to do some serious diagnostic work. My guess would be your pickup tube, is cut very square and it vibrates down to the bottom of the tank while traveling and cannot pick up. However, that does not explain not being able to suck out of the winterizing port.

I will assume your TT is similar to my HTT in how it is plumbed. At the city water connection if you remove the rubber filter washer, there is a one way valve right behind itto ensure water does not exit the TT when using the pump. Remove the washer and use a screw driver to push the valve in a little bit to make sure it works. Then I would check the filter screen right before the pump. You should be able to unscrew it without tools, remove it, check the screen for debris, clean and reinstall. If the clear housing is foggy or full of fine looking fractures replace it. Air will leak in (I had this happen to me) and you lose prime and pressure. Next I would check your winterizing bypass valves at the pump. I have never tried to take one apart, or even if you can, if not; open and close them a few times. I’m suspecting that one of them may not be closing all the way, there might be construction debris such as pipe tape or plastic stuck in the valve keeping it from closing all the way, or damaged the plastic ball, allowing air to pass by. Next lightly tug on the pickup tube (FW tank), I am not sure how it goes into the tank, maybe the hose was cut perfectly square and it vibrates down and becomes blocked as it is bottoming out on the tank. If none above works, remove the pump, on a table outside, setup the pump, with your 12V battery and some hose and bench test it. Can you pump water from a 5 gallon bucket? If so, then the issue is not the pump. If the pump does not work, you can buy a rebuild kit. I would buy the kit, carefully open the pump, and examine what appears to be wrong, rebuild it. A rebuild kit would be a lot cheaper than a new pump.

Good luck, this sounds like a unique issue, could happen with any TT from any vendor.

[coyote1]

No, I don't turn the pump on at that point. Pump runs at that point, but no pressure. New pump=instant fix. Tech from Jayco is helping me get this fixed. We'll see what problem is maybe.

[coyote1]

Jayco had me to take it to a local shop. They are pretty sure the reason for all of this is that the pump is located above the fresh water tank and everytime I use the city water hookup or let it sit for a while, the water all drains out and down into the tank. Current pump is still good apparently and worked after a prime. They are going to lower the pump so I don't have to prime it everytime I use it.

[Scoutr2]

Hmmm. I'm not buying the "tank is lower than the pump" theory. ALL fresh water tanks are below the pump on travel trailers and 5ers. The pumps are mounted in a cabinet or space above the trailer floor. Tanks are mounted below the floor. It might be a priming problem, but something else is causing that.

Tell them to check and see if the one-way tank valve (check-valve between the pump and the tank) is missing, or stuck open. If it's missing or stuck open, that would allow the water to drain back into the tank.

But even then, most all pumps I've seen will draw water without being primed.