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Old 12-04-2010, 08:31 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by cciparts View Post
Reading all the great suggestions on Winterizing has inspired me to publish the importance of Seam Checks as part of your procedure.
That's excellent information! Thanks for your time and effort for presenting it.

Can you go one step further for the "do it yourselfers" and provide some information on how to prepare the areas to be recaulked along with any hints/tips for making the job a success? Surely you're not just applying new caulk over the old. So, what tools, solvents etc. are best for removing the old caulk and preparing the surfaces for the new?
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:20 AM   #12
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That's excellent information! Thanks for your time and effort for presenting it.

Can you go one step further for the "do it yourselfers" and provide some information on how to prepare the areas to be recaulked along with any hints/tips for making the job a success? Surely you're not just applying new caulk over the old. So, what tools, solvents etc. are best for removing the old caulk and preparing the surfaces for the new?
To scrape the old caulk use a plastic putty knife or plastic scaper. DO NOT use metal. To prep and clean the area we use alcohol wipes.

Since you are using self leveling caulk on the roof seams, you can get away with layering over the old caulk. Never go more than a couple layers though.

Also, let me share a secret to cleaning the roof. Don't be fooled by people telling you to go buy rubber roof cleaner. The procedure we have used for the past 37 years works perfectly well; 5 gallon bucket of water, 3 tablespoons Dawn Diswashing Detergent and a soft bristled automobile wash brush with a telescoping handle. That's what you should use to clean your roof and sidewalls.

Another question people ask me is, "what do we use for black streaks"? First off, if you wash your roof a couple times during the season that will cut down on your black streaks. We use a product called Crown RV & Boat Cleaner (Black Streak Remover). It is made in Nicholasville, KY and we haven't found anything that can beat it. It has a 100% Satisfaction Guarantee. If you aren't satisfied they will refund 100% of your retail purchase price. We have NEVER had a customer take them up on that.

Yes, we sell Crown. I don't want Rolly to think I am here for profit so I'm not going to post a link to the crown. If anyone is interested in a link to the product on our website just PM me and I will send you one.

Hope you find this useful.
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Old 12-04-2010, 01:17 PM   #13
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Thanks, Wes, for the information and advice. I'm sure I and everyone else will put it to good use.

I try to scrub the roof once a year (usually before I send the TT for its winter vacation in a limestone mine). However, I've always used Spic 'N Span and a regular household scrub brush. I'm not sure how this compares to Dawn or whether I've been using the wrong cleaner for the last 10 years but I've never noticed any problems. Any thoughts... comments?
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Old 12-04-2010, 01:52 PM   #14
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Thanks, Wes, for the information and advice. I'm sure I and everyone else will put it to good use.

I try to scrub the roof once a year (usually before I send the TT for its winter vacation in a limestone mine). However, I've always used Spic 'N Span and a regular household scrub brush. I'm not sure how this compares to Dawn or whether I've been using the wrong cleaner for the last 10 years but I've never noticed any problems. Any thoughts... comments?
As long as it is non-abrasive all is fine. The problem with abrasives on a rubber roof is the membrane. There is a very thin coating on the rubber. You want to make that coating last as long as humanly possible. If you use anything abrasive it wears the coating off the membrane and that is not a very good thing. Of course they make a roof paint for repairing small areas, but I assure you it isn't as good a protectant as the factory coating. If what you are doing works, by all means keep it up. Our preference is Dawn. We like the grease cutting ability of a dish soap and if the truth be told, the cost savings as well.

Like you, I am sharing years of knowledge with all that view this board. Everyone has their way of doing things that work well and most of us have learned the hard way. If we share enough of what we have learned maybe others won't make the same mistakes we made in the past.

I share from a Dealer point of view, only our philosophy is a little different than most; If we can save you a buck and teach you a shortcut, more than likely we earn a customer for life. That's the Evan Cunningham way.
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Old 12-05-2010, 11:45 AM   #15
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As long as it is non-abrasive all is fine. The problem with abrasives on a rubber roof is the membrane. There is a very thin coating on the rubber. You want to make that coating last as long as humanly possible. If you use anything abrasive it wears the coating off the membrane and that is not a very good thing. Of course they make a roof paint for repairing small areas, but I assure you it isn't as good a protectant as the factory coating. If what you are doing works, by all means keep it up. Our preference is Dawn. We like the grease cutting ability of a dish soap and if the truth be told, the cost savings as well.

Like you, I am sharing years of knowledge with all that view this board. Everyone has their way of doing things that work well and most of us have learned the hard way. If we share enough of what we have learned maybe others won't make the same mistakes we made in the past.

I share from a Dealer point of view, only our philosophy is a little different than most; If we can save you a buck and teach you a shortcut, more than likely we earn a customer for life. That's the Evan Cunningham way.

Sure glad to have you on here.... THANK-YOU Thank-you thank-you
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:11 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by cciparts View Post
As long as it is non-abrasive all is fine. The problem with abrasives on a rubber roof is the membrane. There is a very thin coating on the rubber. You want to make that coating last as long as humanly possible. If you use anything abrasive it wears the coating off the membrane and that is not a very good thing. Of course they make a roof paint for repairing small areas, but I assure you it isn't as good a protectant as the factory coating. If what you are doing works, by all means keep it up. Our preference is Dawn. We like the grease cutting ability of a dish soap and if the truth be told, the cost savings as well.

Like you, I am sharing years of knowledge with all that view this board. Everyone has their way of doing things that work well and most of us have learned the hard way. If we share enough of what we have learned maybe others won't make the same mistakes we made in the past.

I share from a Dealer point of view, only our philosophy is a little different than most; If we can save you a buck and teach you a shortcut, more than likely we earn a customer for life. That's the Evan Cunningham way.
I also echo the thanks for you posting here. It is good to have an expert that can help and also destroy myths. Thank you!!!
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Old 12-06-2010, 07:36 AM   #17
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Just a Side Note...

Now I've gone and done it. LOL

My boss was reading my posts on the board this weekend and now he tells me I may be giving seminars on preventing water leaks at the 2011 Louisville Boat & RV Show. Guess I better freshen up on running a bead of caulk, after all, it's gotta look pretty when your on TV.
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Old 12-06-2010, 02:36 PM   #18
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Now I've gone and done it. LOL

My boss was reading my posts on the board this weekend and now he tells me I may be giving seminars on preventing water leaks at the 2011 Louisville Boat & RV Show. Guess I better freshen up on running a bead of caulk, after all, it's gotta look pretty when your on TV.
Ya never know when the boss might be watching! He knows who`s naughty and nice! Looks like you`re the new leak seminar guy.
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Old 12-08-2010, 04:50 PM   #19
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I was also told to use Dawn dishwashing liquid. Seems to work great for roof, and awnings. We use Snap Seal for the sidewalls, windows, fiberglass caps and wheels. It is really great stuff. Also works well on black streaks. It is a tar and bug remover with wax. It is easy on and off! We also use it to clean the corporate jet I fly. It is a great cleaner and leaves a wax finish behind. It will bead anything from water to bird crap. It can be found at topoftheline.com. If you use it you will love it! I also agree it is nice to have a pro on here!
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Old 02-25-2011, 04:55 PM   #20
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I was told not to cover your trailer, cause as it goes through temp changes it will cause it to sweat causing mildew and mold problems. Its best to leave it uncovered and let it breathe. My 2cents anyways
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