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Old 03-15-2015, 08:55 PM   #1
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De-winterizing-peace of mind

Ok, I'very been reading my manuals and on here. When I bought my 28BHBE, it was already winterized from the factory (picked up in Jan), so I haven't pushed water through it yet.

I've gone through for the hot water heater and installed the plug, and turned the valve to "inline" and ready for flow. And this valve is a PIA to get to in the small crawl space!!!

In this pic of the water pump assy, I see the bottom valve is "inline" and ready for flow.



Is there anything else I need to look at before hooking up water? I've read where to turn the cold on first and flush, then the hot. And once the hot water heater is filled, I can light it and test for hot water.

I didnt get a chance to look and see my low point drain area though.

Thanks for y'all's help.
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Old 03-15-2015, 09:15 PM   #2
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I would flush all your lines before switching the bypass on the hot water heater. No need to put any antifreeze into the hot water heater. after you flush the system with fresh water, then you can change the bypass on the HW heater.

Don't forget to sanitize the system after you flush all the antifreeze out.
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Old 03-15-2015, 10:19 PM   #3
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Your low point drains will be in the bottom of the vanity in the bathroom. And do flush the lines before switching bypass on water tank.(it will take a long time to flush the antifreeze out of there without draining it)
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Old 03-16-2015, 06:18 AM   #4
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Swinepartner, I know how you feel about the hot water heater valves; being right handed and trying to work those valves is no fun! I am thinking of a mod to access them from under the bottom bunk; maybe a hinged trap door. If i come up with an easy solution, I will post it here. Has to be a better way.
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:09 AM   #5
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Mine has an access door to the hot water heater and electrical junction right behind the large hinged door under the mattress.
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:13 AM   #6
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S.Chandler, do you have a 28BHBE, and did it come stock with the access door?
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:21 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t2daniel View Post
I would flush all your lines before switching the bypass on the hot water heater. No need to put any antifreeze into the hot water heater. after you flush the system with fresh water, then you can change the bypass on the HW heater.

Don't forget to sanitize the system after you flush all the antifreeze out.
X2.
I did not do this one time and had all kinds of antifreeze in the hot water system. Had to do a lot of flushing to get it all out. Now, I flush before switching the hot water heater over and no problems.
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NY RVer View Post
S.Chandler, do you have a 28BHBE, and did it come stock with the access door?
I have the 28BHBE Elite and yes it came standard with the access door
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:41 AM   #9
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S.Chandler, do you have a 28BHBE, and did it come stock with the access door?
My 28BHBE also has a small access port under the bottom bunk. Has a finger hole cut in it and everything. You just reach in there, grab the far edge of the mattress, fold it over toward you, lay down on it and you have GREAT access to the winterizing valves. Easier than pie!

It's going to take some time and A LOT of water to sanitize your water system. Your trailer has 2 40 gallon tanks and you want to be sure you sanitize the entire tank, so you want to fill them all the way with your diluted bleach solution. Then you turn on the pump and run it through all your pipes, let it sit at least 4 hours, then drain it all. This takes a LONG time if you just use the built-in drains. Sometimes I try to expedite the process by running at least one faucet. Otherwise, I just walk away and do something else for a while. Then you fill it all again at least once for the rinsing process.
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:42 AM   #10
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One thing I noticed though is that trailers seem to be like snow flakes, no two are made exactly the same.
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