Definitely going to need a photo of your setup. See sample image below. As you explained it, I'm unsure if you literally have tanks separated by some distance...one on one side of the rig and another on the other side...or if you have a conventional two-tank setup on the tongue with a regulator that can switch from one to the other or both at once.
Show us what you have.
Meanwhile, two-tank regulators can leak. Any regulator can leak. The one on my 2020 Jayco was recalled due to leaks...and mine leaked enough that you could smell it.
And that's an important point...you can smell leaking propane. It stinks a bit like rotten eggs. A slow leak makes a little odor. Outside on a breezy day, the odor can be carried away by the wind. But if you sniff around closely, you'll smell it.
The best test for leaks is a
spray bottle with soapy water...dish soap and water. A typical spray bottle might hold 8 to 12 ounces, but don't fill it all the way. Put a few ounces of water in the bottle, add a good squeeze...one teaspoon of dishwashing detergent...then gently swirl the bottle to mix the contents without making it foam up. Wait an hour or so for the bubbles in the bottle to subside. Now spay all suspected joints, including the regulator body itself, the connections to the tanks and the tank valves, and watch for bubbles. Bubbles mean a leak. This is one of the methods pros use to test for leaks.
While you're at it, test the rest of your propane plumbing and appliances.
Your propane lines and "manifolds" should all be fully exposed under the trailer. They are not covered with the coroplast, because that would contain a propane leak that could build up to the point of an explosion. So crawl under there and spray all manifolds (metal blocks that have several connections for distribution) and other connections (say to the aux propane port for a gas grill) AND any areas on rubber hoses or pipes that appear to have been subjected to wear from road vibration.
Also note that, while this is NOT ABSOLUTELY GUARANTEED, it very
unlikely that you have a leak inside your rig (furnace, stove, hot water heater, fridge?), because the propane detector would have sounded an alarm. This assumption is better with the stove and the furnace. But the hot water heater and an absorption (propane) fridge are both vented to the outside, so the propane detector might not sense a leak. But the detectors are pretty sensitive. If you have ANY doubts, I would urge you to do the soapy water test on connections to all appliances...AND on the burner orifices on your range and oven, hot water heater and fridge. Removing the burner tubes to get at the orifices is easy and will enable you to spray onto the orifices and verify that your burner valves (controls) achieve a full shutoff of the gas. Getting to the orifice on the furnace is far more difficult, but the range, hot water heater, and fridge orifices are easy to get to. Test them with the spray, then wipe off the soapy water so the soap doesn't goop up the orifices.
If you have a conventional two-tank setup, this pretty much covers any potential for leaks.
__________________
Jim Moore
SW Colorado - 4-Corners Area
2020 Jayco X213 Rear Slide
2006 RAM 1500 with Firestone Airbags No WDH
400 watts of solar on the roof & 200 watt of suitcase 2 x GC2 batteries
Starlink Gen-3 running from a 500 watt pure sinewave inverter
Boondock almost exclusively on the shores of
Lake Vallecito
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