EZ Lube maintenance

[Forester2]

I sent an email to Dexter yesterday asking if Lucas Red and Tacky was approved. Got a very prompt reply with the chart you have of approved grease. They didnt say anything directly about Lucas but its not on the chart.

[norty1]

I believe the specs would be more valuable that their list.

[Forester2]

Just find it odd that the Lucas seems to be sold by everybody for wheel bearings but is not on Dexters list

[norty1]

$$$$$$$$$$ somehow!

[SmokerBill]

Originally Posted by norty1

$$$$$$$$$$ somehow!

It's always about the money.

Everything's about the money.

[Cincinnati Kid]

So it looks like Dexter grease is made by Mystic. Hard to tell exactly which formulation, but it is a lithium complex, #2 grease.


https://www.docs.citgo.com/msds_pi/M20113.pdf

[craigav]

It is my belief that any high quality, lithium based, name brand wheel bearing grease will work just fine. I also believe that bearing and seal failures are rarely caused by choosing the wrong grease and more commonly caused by overheating the bearings due to incorrect brake controller settings or riding the brakes too long. Whenever the bearings and spindle gets too hot, the oil separates out of the grease and with an EZ-Lube setup there is a lot more oil (grease) in the hub and the rear seal isn't designed for oil especially hot oil, not too mention the seals lose their ability to seal well when under very high temperatures.

Whenever I see a picture of all of the brake components covered in grease, many will say the rear seal failed, which is not necessarily wrong, but the reason why it failed is commonly that the hub and grease got way too hot which caused it to fail. Not that this is the only reason, just a common reason. ~CA

[Ceimo]

Originally Posted by TVB

Can someone please explain-dispel-clarify the mysteries behind maintaining the EZ Lube hub (specifically greasing). I am a fairly mechanical person that has heard/read everything from NEVER do this yourself you will blow out seals to easy peasy task that takes minimal effort and skills. I am leaning towards doing this myself because customer service sucks. My understanding is that I jack up one side, put in grease while rotating the tire until the old grease is squeezed out and the new grease starts coming out and your done. Am I missing something? Thank you for any input, encouragement, discouragement, or other. Camp on RVers!

Watch a YouTube video, it is super easy.

[Hollander Mutthaulers]

I have serviced EZ lube hubs before, but...

We average about 8,000 miles per year on our trailer. Every spring I bring it to South Kent Alignment, Frame and Brake. For a reasonable price these skilled, experienced, knowledgeable, friendly professions repack or replace the bearings and check out the brakes. I still check for hub heat when we travel, but the peace of mind of having the bearings and brakes serviced by a top-notch shop is well worth the cost. And, just in case, I carry a complete set of bearings, race, seal for both hubs in my parts kit.

[mtjag7]

I tried the EZ Lube method and failed the first and only time I've used it. I saw someone in this string mention temperature and going slow, and I would definitely encourage to take heed of those two things. The day I did our TT, the temperature was about 55 degrees and I put in a tube of grease in each side in about 8 minutes each, all the while rotating the tires. I never saw grease coming out, so a few days later, removed the hub to find the seals pushed out and a tube of grease (glob) hanging in the brake compartment. I removed all of that and used a can of brake cleaner to clean them out. BTW, before taking the wheels off, I called Dexter and got two different answers from their tech support with one saying the the hub assembly could hold an entire tub of grease because they only lubricate the bearing before assembly; and the second tech told me that it should only take a few squirts for the grease to come out. Both were wrong.
My advice if that is what you are looking for, is to do this on a warm day, jack the wheels off the ground, and while rotating, put in a stroke of grease about every 10 seconds. Then, I would only put in maybe 10 strokes and do that slowly. I don't know this would even work, but likely, it the seals are going to hold, they should hold. Finally, when I called Jayco, the dealer told me they never put in more than 5-6 strokes of grease in EZ lube axles. Best wishes.

[Bugman]

Looking at the Dexter list, I used the Mobil1 Synthetic Grease on mine . Readily available at my local AutoZone. Took almost three tubes for all four wheels. The original grease was just a little darker so it was easy to know when to stop. I don't assume to know better than the Dexter engineers so it's no question I'm gonna use only what they have on THEIR list, not what some armchair scientist on the internet thinks is best. Don't want to find out on the side of the road that he was full of crap.

[Marcm157]

Originally Posted by Bugman

Looking at the Dexter list, I used the Mobil1 Synthetic Grease on mine . Readily available at my local AutoZone. Took almost three tubes for all four wheels. The original grease was just a little darker so it was easy to know when to stop. I don't assume to know better than the Dexter engineers so it's no question I'm gonna use only what they have on THEIR list, not some armchair scientist on the internet.

Sometimes the best advice comes from us "armchair scientists" as we are not beholden to anyone other than ourselves. Don't discount much of the advice you get here. I have fabricated MANY tools over the years to circumvent the "engineers" designs on vehicles after they came back from their liquid lunches and decided to put parts in places no human should ever have to reach....

[Bugman]

Originally Posted by Marcm157

Sometimes the best advice comes from us "armchair scientists" as we are not beholden to anyone other than ourselves. Don't discount much of the advice you get here. I have fabricated MANY tools over the years to circumvent the "engineers" designs on vehicles after they came back from their liquid lunches and decided to put parts in places no human should ever have to reach....

I don't deny there's good advice here, and recognize all-too-often, it IS about the money. But, coming from my experiences in the Aviation industry, I will ALWAYS use what's recommended by the OEM, not what someone else "thinks" might be better. You know it's true if you see it on the internet, right?

[joe w]

I have been using Lucas Red-n-tacky for well over 4 years now and have approximately 26K miles on our rig. The Lucas grease meets and exceeds (drop point) the specs specified for the axels.

[videoarizona]

Well I know this will raise some eyebrows:

I own a sailboat and a travel trailer. Each has dual axles. Both are over 2.5 tons.

1: I've used the SuperTech Marine grease for years. Sold at Walmart. High temp rating. Resists salt and fresh water intrusion. Stays put. Nice blue color.
2: I've regreased the boat trailer three times since 2004. It has been across country twice. In salt and fresh water multiple times..... And I mean lots of times.
3. Trailer is on year 4 with no bearing issues and no regrease. I will have to deal with trailer shortly as a seal has started leaking.

Secret is simple.
Use only USA bearings and seals.
Hand pack only. Make sure you clean the spindle and bearings!!!
Run bearings slightly loose.
Leave them alone. If you wish to check bearings, do so. But make sure you don't introduce any dirt anywhere!

Not one bearing failure since 2004 on sailboat. (Knock on wood). And no bearing failure yet on trailer. And I live in Arizona. We have heat. Especially in the summer on the freeways!

Now I know this goes against all rules... But I had a long conversation with a bearing expert years back. That person recommended that I do just what I wrote above. People who have bearing failure most likely either tightened the bearings to tight or overloaded the axles. ( Or used chinese bearings). The two most common causes of bearing failure. Keeping bearings clean is a "warning " when you take them apart. Under normal use, they should stay clean if hub is maintained. Stay away from those issues and your bearings should last a lifetime.
So there ya go.
No I won't use the factory way of adding grease. I'll repack by hand when the time comes. I like getting grease in my fingernails. I know I've done the job right!
FWIW,
David

[Mountain Mike 57]

Originally Posted by TVB

Can someone please explain-dispel-clarify the mysteries behind maintaining the EZ Lube hub (specifically greasing). I am a fairly mechanical person that has heard/read everything from NEVER do this yourself you will blow out seals to easy peasy task that takes minimal effort and skills. I am leaning towards doing this myself because customer service sucks. My understanding is that I jack up one side, put in grease while rotating the tire until the old grease is squeezed out and the new grease starts coming out and your done. Am I missing something? Thank you for any input, encouragement, discouragement, or other. Camp on RVers!

I read this the other day: "People hire mechanics because they don't work on their cars themselves. I hire a mechanic BECAUSE I worked on my car myself".

[Weatherman1]

Originally Posted by TVB

Can someone please explain-dispel-clarify the mysteries behind maintaining the EZ Lube hub (specifically greasing). I am a fairly mechanical person that has heard/read everything from NEVER do this yourself you will blow out seals to easy peasy task that takes minimal effort and skills. I am leaning towards doing this myself because customer service sucks. My understanding is that I jack up one side, put in grease while rotating the tire until the old grease is squeezed out and the new grease starts coming out and your done. Am I missing something? Thank you for any input, encouragement, discouragement, or other. Camp on RVers!

Here is to all the naysayers out there that have a problem with the EZ lube system.

1) Would you rather have permanently sealed bearings?
2) Any grease change is better than the alternative.
3) Bearings will fail no matter what you use or how you use it. (It's called manufacturing defects and it is on purpose)
I've had bearings fail even on the ones I hand packed
4) Pump slowly while spinning the wheel and don't forget to wipe off the hub of excess grease
5) In my day, Timken was one of the manufacturers of choice and not sure if they still exist
6) follow the instructions and you'll be fine

[Route 66 Traveler]

This topic is like so many others; we each have our own opinions as to what is best and whatever works for you, that's great

In my case, as I've said more than once, I prefer to use the system Dexter invented, the EZ Lube system.

It has worked for me for the past 6 years and I will continue to use it. Twice a year I raise the trailer...by the frame..remove two tires so that I can rotate them, and proceed to add Red n Tacky #2. I place a small cardboard box under the the wheel to catch the old grease. As my wife slowing rotates the wheel I slowly pump in the new grease, watching the color of the grease falling from the hub as we go. It is visually obvious when the new grease begins to appear, the color changes from dark purple to red. Last time it took about 1/2 tube per hub.

Before removing the tire I rotate it listening for any unusual noise, like dragging brake shoes, magnets, or a noisy bearing. I also check for minimal free play in the bearings. If I hear anything unusual or something that doesn't feel right, then yes, I will remove the hub for further inspection.

Trusting a shop to do it right is always a gamble. I once saw a 5th wheel pull into a truck stop to get fuel....missing the rear wheel and hub on the right rear axle. The driver had no idea where it came off...his only comment was "I just had them serviced before I left home" The spindle had twisted right off the axle and what was left was a pretty blue color....a sign it had been VERY hot. Hopefully the rolling tire didn't kill anyone.

Do it anyway you wish, but do it by the book with no short cuts.