Fool the fridge?

[M&M]

The fridge doesn't work if parked on a slope. When we pick up the camper from the storage lot and bring it the house, which requires parking it on a slope
(not that steep, but enough), I'd like to leave it hooked up to the truck, and let the fridge get cold overnight. But, I have to unhook, put a block under the post and crank it up to level. Is there any way to override, adjust, or fool the fridge into thinking it's more level? I realize it's a safety feature of some sort, but seems a very little margin with the slope.

[Grumpy]

Not a safety feature, but a gravity feature. An RV fridge uses a water ammonia mixture so if you're off level enough it doesn't flow back down to the boiler.

How far off level?

Norcold recommends that their refrigerators operate within 3 degrees off level side-to-side and 6 degrees off level front-to-back.

Side to side would be "front to back" on the RV

[Route 66 Traveler]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Norcold recommends that their refrigerators operate within 3 degrees off level side-to-side and 6 degrees off level front-to-back.

Side to side would be "front to back" on the RV

Wouldn't that depend on the orientation of the fridge? I have a rear kitchen so the door of the fridge faces the front of the trailer. A side mounted fridge would have the door facing the side of the trailer. Regardless, I try to keep it level all of the time. How long can it run without damage if it exceeds Norcold's recommendations?

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Route 66 Traveler

Wouldn't that depend on the orientation of the fridge?

True, but since most are on the side I posted that for an easy reference. Some have interpreted side to side as meaning drivers side, passenger side.

[Route 66 Traveler]

So, how long would be too long at a site that's not level, or would it be better to just turn it off? Sometimes while traveling we stop for a break, and sometimes the trailer is obviously not level.

[sturgissteele]

If just a rest stop, even if it turns off, stuff will be kept cold for quite a long time. I wouldn't worry about it too much. For in the driveway, I have to do the same thing and I just keep it level. Plus, we're usually in and out of it for packing purposes, anyway.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Route 66 Traveler

So, how long would be too long at a site that's not level,

Hours...

[2edgesword]

The fridge works by evaporation and has to be level to work properly. You will cause expensive damage running the fridge while not level for any prolonged length of time.

[2edgesword]

BTW, there are level requirements for front to back and side to side so leveling is important no matter what orientation the frig is in.

[Xboaters]

Originally Posted by 2edgesword

The fridge works by evaporation and has to be level to work properly. You will cause expensive damage running the fridge while not level for any prolonged length of time.

I understand that running the fridge unleveled has caused some refers to catch fire.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Xboaters

I understand that running the fridge unleveled has caused some refers to catch fire.

Never heard that in 40 years. They just quit circulating and the only way to correct is to take them out and turn them upside down.

[M&M]

That darn gravity thing again... I'm not sure the exact degrees, but I have to crank it up about 3 inches above the hitch ball and the fridge will run. I really didn't think there'd be a way to solve it, but thought I'd throw it our there. I've figured out you have be be part McGuyver, part Tim "the Tool Man" Taylor when you camp, and you never know what things people think of.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by M&M

That darn gravity thing again... I'm not sure the exact degrees, but I have to crank it up about 3 inches above the hitch ball and the fridge will run. I really didn't think there'd be a way to solve it, but thought I'd throw it our there. I've figured out you have be be part McGuyver, part Tim "the Tool Man" Taylor when you camp, and you never know what things people think of.

Can you pull the truck wheels up on blocks?

[M&M]

I had a similar thought, but was thinking car ramps might work.

[Robby]

Originally Posted by M&M

The fridge doesn't work if parked on a slope. When we pick up the camper from the storage lot and bring it the house, which requires parking it on a slope
(not that steep, but enough), I'd like to leave it hooked up to the truck, and let the fridge get cold overnight. But, I have to unhook, put a block under the post and crank it up to level. Is there any way to override, adjust, or fool the fridge into thinking it's more level? I realize it's a safety feature of some sort, but seems a very little margin with the slope.

I have had similar issues when using propane to fire up the frig. What i do now is plug it into ac which uses the compressor and it fires right up. Then when you leave shift it over to propane. It works every time for me.

[Murff]

As for running level; our first travel trailer was a 1979 Nomad Bunkhouse. The only way to keep the fridge cold, was to have it lean out of the enclosure an inch and a half at the top. Put a 3/4 inch board under the back "feet' and anchored it and then had the trailer sitting 3/4s of an inch off level when camped.

The cooling process was pretty particular.

Murff

[Marcm157]

Originally Posted by Robby

I have had similar issues when using propane to fire up the frig. What i do now is plug it into ac which uses the compressor and it fires right up. Then when you leave shift it over to propane. It works every time for me.

RV refrigerators that cool with propane / electric (Ammonia / Water) don't have compressors.

[norty1]

Originally Posted by Robby

I have had similar issues when using propane to fire up the frig. What i do now is plug it into ac which uses the compressor and it fires right up. Then when you leave shift it over to propane. It works every time for me.

You rigs fridge has a compressor on AC and gas?

[SkyBound]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Never heard that in 40 years. They just quit circulating and the only way to correct is to take them out and turn them upside down.

It is my understanding that the fire danger comes from running the fridge unlevel while on propane. There is a flame inside a burner tube that is centered when level. When the fridge becomes unlevel, the flame begins to angle towards a sidewall of the tube, and if significant enough, touch the burner tube sidewall and heat it up to the point that surrounding material can ignite.

Someone correct me if I am wrong.

[Camper_bob]

Absorption fridges need to be relatively level so the Ammonia doesn't pool after it has condensed back to liquid form on its way back down to the absorption chamber and then the boiler.

Apparently, if this pooling occurs, it can cause at best a loss of cooling efficiency, and at worst a fire. If the ammonia or hydrogen are allowed to escape through a leak and find an ignition source, it could cause a fire. Or so I've read...

ETA: That pooling can contribute to a leak in the system from what I understand.

I've never heard of the flame being off-center of the boiler to be a cause fire, but I suppose it could?

Bottom line is that if you can't get the fridge to within the 3 degree side/side or 6 degree front/back spec, you should turn it off. There's no point in trying to "trick" it into continuing to run in an out of spec level situation. If it has a protective mechanism designed to save itself, why would you want to defeat that and let it destroy itself?

Like if you disable the low-oil shutoff on a generator; it's still going to seize, but it would've been able to shut down and avoid destruction if you hadn't defeated the safety mechanism.