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Old 02-06-2018, 06:16 PM   #21
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I bought mine refurbished from SuperGen products in NY cheap.
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Old 02-07-2018, 01:27 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by kayakterp View Post
Can anyone guide me into a purchase of a new/used generator
Finally thinking of trying to boon-dock - I don't need the top of the line just need to know what I can get by with at a low budget. Hoping to stay under $500 (if possible?)
Only have 1 AC (13,500) and microwave that I'm guess I got are the big draws on my 30amp TT
I don't have any experience with generators so I'm not sure of the ratings, classifications, etc of what is needed?
Are the ones with 'inverter' mean they are the quiet ones? Is that the only advantage to them? I know I don't want the loudest ones out there but don't think my budget will allow all the amemnaties.
Been doing some looking on Craigslist but don't know what the numbers reflect for power, etc?
I think I just need something that will keep my battery charged and run A/C. My fridge and heat can run on LP gas if needed but it would be nice to know what generators can handle fridge, small electric heaters, microwave, during Spring & Fall when A/C is off? Hoping to do short 2-day weekends
Thanks in advance for any help
I have one of the Predator generators from Harbor Freight and it's working great. They make two different sizes and go on sale fairly often

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Old 02-07-2018, 02:07 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by kayakterp View Post
Can anyone guide me into a purchase of a new/used generator
Finally thinking of trying to boon-dock - I don't need the top of the line just need to know what I can get by with at a low budget. Hoping to stay under $500 (if possible?)
Only have 1 AC (13,500) and microwave that I'm guess I got are the big draws on my 30amp TT
I don't have any experience with generators so I'm not sure of the ratings, classifications, etc of what is needed?
Are the ones with 'inverter' mean they are the quiet ones? Is that the only advantage to them? I know I don't want the loudest ones out there but don't think my budget will allow all the amemnaties.
Been doing some looking on Craigslist but don't know what the numbers reflect for power, etc?
I think I just need something that will keep my battery charged and run A/C. My fridge and heat can run on LP gas if needed but it would be nice to know what generators can handle fridge, small electric heaters, microwave, during Spring & Fall when A/C is off? Hoping to do short 2-day weekends
Thanks in advance for any help
A lot of the time you won't need or be able to run your A/C off your generators. For example in State Parks hours will be limited and you won't be able to use them to run A/C at night.

The Honda website has a good table with approximate wattages of different items you would use in a camper to help you decide how large of a generator you will need.

You'll want to the inverter model to protect all the electronics: TV, radio, microwave, iPhones etc. in you camper.

For our purposes I really like the light weight of our Honda 2000 watt generators. For most dry camping, I pull out one 40 lb generator and it is sufficient to power almost everything in camper (except A/C) as long as we don't use microwave at the same time as toaster/coffee maker/electric water heater. If it is hot weather and we are somewhere I can run a generator during the day, I can pull the other 2000 watt out and hook it together for 4000 watts of peak power to run everything. Honda just came out with their updated 2200 Watt generator so you may be able to get a good price on a 2000watt. You can buy one now to charge batteries etc. and if you really need it, buy a second companion model to run the A/C etc.

Larger 3000-4500 watt generators will have the disadvantage of heavier lift in and out of truck but will have the advantage or larger gas tank for longer run time and possibly quieter depending on the model. If run time is a concern, you can also get extended gas tanks that feed into the generators.
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Old 02-07-2018, 02:30 PM   #24
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Inverter generators are like traditional generators because they produce AC power, which is then converted to DC power before being converted back to AC. This produces a smoother, steadier flow of power. The conversion also allows the generator to be more fuel efficient, as well as operate more quietly than standard models.

Generators use a motor attached to an alternator that produces electricity. The motor must run at a constant speed (usually 3600 rpm) to produce the standard current that most household uses require (in the U.S., typically 120 Volts AC @ 60 Hertz). If the engine’s rpm fluctuates, so will the frequency (Hertz) of electrical output.

An inverter gives you a sine wave like you would find at home. It also gives you the cleanest power for your electronics (TV, computer, microwave, radio, AC, etc).

Since a generator produces unfiltered AC, any fluctuation (over or under voltage and change in AC frequency) puts your electronics at risk. As a ham operator, I've seen radios worth more than $1k destroyed using a generator when the engine went off speed. And that was using a generator properly maintained for emergency operations.

Inverters, besides being quieter, normally have an eco mode to sip fuel, then automatically run themselves up to higher speeds (without changing the AC and frequency output) when placed under a heavier load. They drop back to eco mode when the power load (need) drops off.

Check out Champion. I own two 2KW inverters with the parallel adapter (gives me over 3.6KW output with 30amp plugin) and a dual fuel (LP/gas) 3500/3100 inverter. The later will support out TT (AC, TV, microwave, computer, lights) though I cannot run the microwave and AC at the same time due to the power draw, no big deal for us.

Another thing, most home backup generators that can support a whole house are inverter type. (Generac as an example).

Figure out what your needs are and buy a unit to match (or a bit over).

One other thing to consider. A dual fuel unit is easier to winterize or put away if you don't use it on a regular basis. If you use LP, you don't need to drain the fuel tank, carb and lines. Less soot and acids in the oil. And after the break in period, (first 5 hours and then drain) use the proper weight synthetic oil. Holds up better in an air cooled engine than dinosaur oil. I carry a 20lb bottle to use with our 3500/3100 KW inverter. And I have the ability to tape LP off the external accessory port of the trailer.
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Old 02-07-2018, 04:30 PM   #25
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^ great write-up and explanation.
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Old 02-08-2018, 12:28 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kayakterp View Post
Can anyone guide me into a purchase of a new/used generator
Finally thinking of trying to boon-dock - I don't need the top of the line just need to know what I can get by with at a low budget. Hoping to stay under $500 (if possible?)
Only have 1 AC (13,500) and microwave that I'm guess I got are the big draws on my 30amp TT
I don't have any experience with generators so I'm not sure of the ratings, classifications, etc of what is needed?
Are the ones with 'inverter' mean they are the quiet ones? Is that the only advantage to them? I know I don't want the loudest ones out there but don't think my budget will allow all the amemnaties.
Been doing some looking on Craigslist but don't know what the numbers reflect for power, etc?
I think I just need something that will keep my battery charged and run A/C. My fridge and heat can run on LP gas if needed but it would be nice to know what generators can handle fridge, small electric heaters, microwave, during Spring & Fall when A/C is off? Hoping to do short 2-day weekends
Thanks in advance for any help
There are online calculators out there to help estimate power needs. Otherwise here's some quick advice:
* Plain Jane generators are cheap, loud and not very fuel efficient.
* Inverter generators are more expensive, more quiet, more fuel efficient and are generally easier on electronics.
* Do your generator research. 2000W does NOT mean you get 2000W to use for all your stuff.
* Most generators use gasoline for fuel but some will allow propane. Propane does not provide as much power as gas.

Good Luck
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Old 02-08-2018, 05:45 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Ottawasteve View Post
A lot of the time you won't need or be able to run your A/C off your generators. For example in State Parks hours will be limited and you won't be able to use them to run A/C at night.

The Honda website has a good table with approximate wattages of different items you would use in a camper to help you decide how large of a generator you will need.

You'll want to the inverter model to protect all the electronics: TV, radio, microwave, iPhones etc. in you camper.

For our purposes I really like the light weight of our Honda 2000 watt generators. For most dry camping, I pull out one 40 lb generator and it is sufficient to power almost everything in camper (except A/C) as long as we don't use microwave at the same time as toaster/coffee maker/electric water heater. If it is hot weather and we are somewhere I can run a generator during the day, I can pull the other 2000 watt out and hook it together for 4000 watts of peak power to run everything. Honda just came out with their updated 2200 Watt generator so you may be able to get a good price on a 2000watt. You can buy one now to charge batteries etc. and if you really need it, buy a second companion model to run the A/C etc.

Larger 3000-4500 watt generators will have the disadvantage of heavier lift in and out of truck but will have the advantage or larger gas tank for longer run time and possibly quieter depending on the model. If run time is a concern, you can also get extended gas tanks that feed into the generators.
This....it’s exactly what we did as well. Works great, easy to handle, and economical to operate. I also picked up the extended range fuel tanks and can go for days without refueling.
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Old 02-08-2018, 08:24 AM   #28
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I picked up a 3400W Champion for the times I need my air conditioner or other high draw appliances, and will keep an eye open for a used little 1000W-2000W inverter generator that's smaller and lighter for when I only need basic AC power.
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Old 02-08-2018, 09:38 AM   #29
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Has anyone had any experience with FIRMAN?
Firman 4000-Watt ECO 4000RE Gas Remote Start Portable Generator
This is for sale on CL in my area and planning to go look at it & hear how loud it is this Saturday
Thanks
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Old 02-08-2018, 10:19 AM   #30
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Dual Fuel

Also wondering if anyone has any experience with the dual fuel generators that can use propane as well as gas?? It seems that would be a good backup if you run out of gas?
Would our extra propane connector at the rear of the TT be sufficient to run a generator or should I bring a 5 lber from my backyard grill?
Do these generators generally run good on propane like they do on gas?
Thanks
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Old 02-10-2018, 08:48 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by kayakterp View Post
Also wondering if anyone has any experience with the dual fuel generators that can use propane as well as gas?? It seems that would be a good backup if you run out of gas?
Would our extra propane connector at the rear of the TT be sufficient to run a generator or should I bring a 5 lber from my backyard grill?
Do these generators generally run good on propane like they do on gas?
Thanks
I have a dual fuel and have only run it on propane. Yes, the output is lower (3400 gas vs 3100 LP), but I don't have to worry about gasoline going stale, varnish when gasoline dries in the carb, fuel in lines, etc. if you don't use it for an extended period or store until next time needed. With LP, when you shut down the gas, the fuel system is clean and dry, ready for the next time (verified by Champion tech support). And I always have the option to use gasoline if needed.

Running on LP is cleaner, a bit quieter, and for me, easier. I plan on tying into the TT LP system at the port for an external grill. In talking with my LP dealer, I should be able to run a line (without regulator) to the inverter.

I do carry a 20 pound LP bottle (BBQ grill size) to run the inverter at this point and after setting up using the TT tanks, will continue to do so. Remember, I will be drawing down fuel for the hot water heater, stove and furnace, so the "BBQ" bottle will be a backup. Plus it's easier to pop into the back of the pickup and get it refilled.

A tip--if you are transporting a 20 pound LP tank, carry it in a plastic milk case. Makes it easier to tie down and keep it from moving around. A real, heavy duty dairy milk case will hold up much better than those plastic storage bins you can buy at Wally World, Ikea, Target, etc.
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:58 AM   #32
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Thank you ifallsguy. Very much appreciate your feedback!
Never have owned a generator before I haven't really considered the maintenance of cleaning the carb & fuel lines after each use.
My TT came with an extra LP line that goes to the back of the trailer near the bumper. Do you think that would be sufficient to use to keep the generator going at full power (meaning whatever full power is for LP gas vs gasoline) or do I need some kind of regulator/adapter somewhere (at the front tank or at the end of the line) to keep the gas line pushing propane???
I have two 30# tanks at the front of TT. I could always get another BBQ grill 5# tank (I thought they are 5# but maybe they're more?)
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:47 AM   #33
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Thank you ifallsguy. Very much appreciate your feedback!
Never have owned a generator before I haven't really considered the maintenance of cleaning the carb & fuel lines after each use.
My TT came with an extra LP line that goes to the back of the trailer near the bumper. Do you think that would be sufficient to use to keep the generator going at full power (meaning whatever full power is for LP gas vs gasoline) or do I need some kind of regulator/adapter somewhere (at the front tank or at the end of the line) to keep the gas line pushing propane???
I have two 30# tanks at the front of TT. I could always get another BBQ grill 5# tank (I thought they are 5# but maybe they're more?)
If you use the generator/inverter on a regular basis (every few weeks or so), then draining isn't necessary. It is for longer periods of nonuse. Just another thing to keep in mind when you put it away. I try to run my gas powered units every month or so for at least 5 minutes. And my fuel is stabilized to help keep it from breaking down.

I haven't tied into the accessory port yet. but I've spoken with several LP "experts" (my LP supplier, RV service manager and people with bumper grills) and all said the port should support the generator/inverter.

You don't need a regulator on the generator/inverter since your trailer regulator will supply the line at the proper pressure. I am purchasing a line that ties into the port and has a quick connect for the power plant.

Remember to figure in getting the generator/inverter away from the trailer due to exhaust. Make sure you also point the exhaust away from the trailer.
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Old 02-12-2018, 02:11 PM   #34
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Sounds good, thanks for the information
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Old 02-12-2018, 05:17 PM   #35
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Cheap means noisey and they are known as contractor type. You will be the most hated camper in a 5 mile radius.
At NASCAR camping we call them "screamers".
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:06 PM   #36
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I never worried about fuel left in mine unless it was going to sit for a week or more. If leaving it sit I'd just turn it off with the fuel shutoff. I also added Stabil to the gas for the generator.

Propane seems convenient....as long as you know you have enough. If Iwere to run on propane I'd use a separate 5gal (20lb) tank. Easy to get refilled/replaced. Not cheap if you have to use the replacement cylinders. Another reason I like gas is I can get it just about anywhere.
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Old 02-16-2018, 03:41 PM   #37
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I'm on year 3 with my Champion 3100W invertor. Starts easily, runs flawlessly, very quiet, and is strong enough to run the AC:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBDCE1S...a-272823971906


Yes I have been looking at getting a generator and this look good, how long can you run it on a tank of gas and how do you carry it?
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Old 02-16-2018, 04:07 PM   #38
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About 4 hours when the A/C is running and around 90F or 32C
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Old 02-16-2018, 04:20 PM   #39
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Inverter generators are like traditional generators because they produce AC power, which is then converted to DC power before being converted back to AC. This produces a smoother, steadier flow of power. The conversion also allows the generator to be more fuel efficient, as well as operate more quietly than standard models.

Generators use a motor attached to an alternator that produces electricity. The motor must run at a constant speed (usually 3600 rpm) to produce the standard current that most household uses require (in the U.S., typically 120 Volts AC @ 60 Hertz). If the engine’s rpm fluctuates, so will the frequency (Hertz) of electrical output.

An inverter gives you a sine wave like you would find at home. It also gives you the cleanest power for your electronics (TV, computer, microwave, radio, AC, etc).

Since a generator produces unfiltered AC, any fluctuation (over or under voltage and change in AC frequency) puts your electronics at risk. As a ham operator, I've seen radios worth more than $1k destroyed using a generator when the engine went off speed. And that was using a generator properly maintained for emergency operations.

Inverters, besides being quieter, normally have an eco mode to sip fuel, then automatically run themselves up to higher speeds (without changing the AC and frequency output) when placed under a heavier load. They drop back to eco mode when the power load (need) drops off.

Check out Champion. I own two 2KW inverters with the parallel adapter (gives me over 3.6KW output with 30amp plugin) and a dual fuel (LP/gas) 3500/3100 inverter. The later will support out TT (AC, TV, microwave, computer, lights) though I cannot run the microwave and AC at the same time due to the power draw, no big deal for us.

Another thing, most home backup generators that can support a whole house are inverter type. (Generac as an example).

Figure out what your needs are and buy a unit to match (or a bit over).

One other thing to consider. A dual fuel unit is easier to winterize or put away if you don't use it on a regular basis. If you use LP, you don't need to drain the fuel tank, carb and lines. Less soot and acids in the oil. And after the break in period, (first 5 hours and then drain) use the proper weight synthetic oil. Holds up better in an air cooled engine than dinosaur oil. I carry a 20lb bottle to use with our 3500/3100 KW inverter. And I have the ability to tape LP off the external accessory port of the trailer.

I like that do you have any pics of your setup, I'm looking on getting something and yes we will be running the ac.
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Old 02-16-2018, 05:31 PM   #40
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13K A/C runs at 11.8 amp (122 Volt) but startup is double with the standard capacitor.
Running the A/C figure about a liter an hour with the temp mentioned.
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