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Old 07-09-2015, 09:10 PM   #11
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Forgot to mention that when the pump is powered it will run until the lines are pressurized.
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Old 07-09-2015, 09:13 PM   #12
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Again, thank you guys for the help! I think it was more a matter of the pumps needing to fully pressurize. I learn something new (many new things) every day with this rig!
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:06 PM   #13
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You may have an air bubble in the hot water heater. If that's the problem, the air acts like an accumulator and the pump is trying to pressurize the tank.

Shut off the HW heater and open a HW faucet to let some cold water in the tank. After the water cools down, open the relief valve on the HW heater (outside) and see if you can purge the air.

You could also have a bad pressure switch on the pump. It can be adjusted, but it's tricky and best done by the dealer. My brand new Outback did that the first day at home. Had to make the 90 mile trip back and they just replaced the pump. Never had a problem after that.
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:49 PM   #14
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My RV has 3 switches. You have to shut it off with the one you turned it on with.
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Old 07-10-2015, 01:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoutr2 View Post
...
You could also have a bad pressure switch on the pump. It can be adjusted, but it's tricky and best done by the dealer. My brand new Outback did that the first day at home. Had to make the 90 mile trip back and they just replaced the pump. Never had a problem after that.

Man, I hope a brand new class A doesn't have a bad pressure switch. I'm leaning more to the air bubble somewhere.
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Old 07-10-2015, 04:19 PM   #16
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Is the pump a shurflo 4008? If so it may just need adjusting. It has a pressure switch and a bypass valve that can be adjusted as well.
Ours will run and run as it pumps water through the bypass valve. We have a big accumulator tank (4gallons) and I think this exacerbates the problem. I bought a new pump thinking the old one crapped out and the new one did the exact same thing.
I fiddled with the adjustment screws for a while and got it working but the pump really makes a racket just before it shuts off.
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Old 07-10-2015, 06:53 PM   #17
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The comments about the pump switches is important.

Many TTs have more than one switch ( convenient )

But they are usually in parallel , so any one switch on, the pump is on. All switches must be off for the pump to be off (. They are not lazy man like two light switches in your home )
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Old 07-10-2015, 09:37 PM   #18
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Even with both switches in the down position, the light stays on on both switches.
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Old 07-10-2015, 10:02 PM   #19
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My pump started running way to long after shutting off a faucet. I replaced the check valve and the water pump valve assembly and it fixed the problem. The water pump valve assy. is made of rubber or silicone, and had become hard compared to the new one. It wasn't sealing as it should.
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Old 08-02-2015, 11:54 AM   #20
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So we had this happen again. This time it continues despite trying the above. Neither of the switches make a difference. I finally pulled the wire from the pump so it won't run!
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