hitches, sway control

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by David472

Here's the follow-up with my plans here, which may be of interest to rog4kneer.
I went to see our Jayco dealer, asking if we could get the Reese Dual Cam for our 22FB trailer. The technician there was not sure there was enough room on the TT tongue for that system. The propane tanks may interfer. He suggested the Equal-i-zer brand. This is the other system which Crabman and Healthi mentioned. The Tech was certain this system would easily fit our trailer tongue. So, the Equal-i-zer WDH with integrated sway control is what I'm going with.

The old style 26001 Reese dual cam systems use U bolts to hold the cam arms which sometimes interfere with the propane tank bracket. I have this system and had to raise my tank bracket with spacers to allow for the u bolts to go under them. The newer 26002 system bolts on the bottom of the frame, so not sure how the tanks would interfere with that, unless the tech is thinking the snap up brackets may be in the way, but they can be adjusted back and forth. The Equalizer would of course remove doubt on this. I have a camping buddy who has the Equalizer and he likes it just fine, both good systems. Just thought I would clarify the two Reese systems.

Here is a link to the old style 26001 like I have :http://www.rvstuffusa.com/dualcamswa...olbyreese.html

And here is the newer 26002http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distr...e/RP66072.html

[Bob Landry]

I'm using a single friction bar with my 2FB and I have no sway that I know of. That said, I don't know if it's the sway bar working or a correctly loaded trailer. If the traile is loaded right, you probably don't need sway control, but how do you determine that? I don't know. I have a new Outback on the way that's going to be around 7500lbs dry, and I'll probably go to a dual cam for that one.

[Bob Landry]

Originally Posted by Crabman

The old style 26001 Reese dual cam systems use U bolts to hold the cam arms which sometimes interfere with the propane tank bracket. I have this system and had to raise my tank bracket with spacers to allow for the u bolts to go under them. The newer 26002 system bolts on the bottom of the frame, so not sure how the tanks would interfere with that, unless the tech is thinking the snap up brackets may be in the way, but they can be adjusted back and forth. The Equalizer would of course remove doubt on this. I have a camping buddy who has the Equalizer and he likes it just fine, both good systems. Just thought I would clarify the two Reese systems.

Here is a link to the old style 26001 like I have :http://www.rvstuffusa.com/dualcamswa...olbyreese.html

And here is the newer 26002http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distr...e/RP66072.html

There's very little if any at all adjustment in the cam up brackets. They have to be positioned so that they pull straight up on the WD chains. The WD bars are 30" long so there's no interference with the propane tanks. Should there be, they are easy to reposition. The Dc brackets mount on the frame approx 18" from the center of the hitch ball and mount under the beam of the frame, so there's no chance for interference there either.
I want the tech who installs my stuff to know how it works. I think I would have asked for a different one.

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

I'm using a single friction bar with my 2FB and I have no sway that I know of. That said, I don't know if it's the sway bar working or a correctly loaded trailer. If the traile is loaded right, you probably don't need sway control, but how do you determine that? I don't know. I have a new Outback on the way that's going to be around 7500lbs dry, and I'll probably go to a dual cam for that one.

I think you`ve got it right, Bob. A trailer with a properly adjusted WD system, TV, load, and tongue weight should not sway under normal conditions even without sway control. If it does, you need to find and correct the reason for the sway. The sway control is for those unforseen outside forces that could cause sway under certain conditions like heavy cross winds, or braking going down a steep grade or anything else man and nature can throw at you.

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

There's very little if any at all adjustment in the cam up brackets. They have to be positioned so that they pull straight up on the WD chains. The WD bars are 30" long so there's no interference with the propane tanks. Should there be, they are easy to reposition. The Dc brackets mount on the frame approx 18" from the center of the hitch ball and mount under the beam of the frame, so there's no chance for interference there either.
I want the tech who installs my stuff to know how it works. I think I would have asked for a different one.

Come to think about it I see what ya mean, the brackets should be straight up from the cams for optimal performance. Mine are. I have seen some have the brackets off center toward the back of the trailer with the chains at an angle, but that`s probably incorrect. -Lee

[David472]

Originally Posted by Crabman

The old style 26001 Reese dual cam systems use U bolts to hold the cam arms which sometimes interfere with the propane tank bracket. I have this system and had to raise my tank bracket with spacers to allow for the u bolts to go under them. The newer 26002 system bolts on the bottom of the frame, so not sure how the tanks would interfere with that, unless the tech is thinking the snap up brackets may be in the way, but they can be adjusted back and forth. The Equalizer would of course remove doubt on this. I have a camping buddy who has the Equalizer and he likes it just fine, both good systems. Just thought I would clarify the two Reese systems.

Thanks for the all descriptive web links Crabman.
The Dual Cam we looked at today was the U-bolt style. The Tech was quite willing to go with that, if I would be willing to accept the possible, I said possible, tank relocation, as you have done. In the end, it was my decision to go with the Tech's suggestion of the Equal-i-zer brand for simplicity. As you said, both have been shown to work well, and that's what I've heard from quite a few people in the last few days.
Thanks also to the others who posted, and I hope rog4kneer circles back to read more.

[Crabman]

I think you will be well satisfied with the Equalizer. Happy camping.

[llerberg]

All good to know. We are getting a new Equilizer with our new TT next month. Hopefully, that combined with the integral F150 sway control we'll be in good shape for pleasant towing.

[clutch]

All of the weight distribution hitches are good. Some are more suited to one trailer than another. All with anti sway controll will do a good job.

[earl9653]

I use the 1k/10k Fastway e2 hitch. It's a WD with 2 point sway control. For the last 4 weeks I've been pulling my 2011 Flight 22FB over 3k miles with a 2011 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel. The hitch has performed great. I bought it for $390 and easy to self install.

Here is the link for info: http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/e2/

[Bob Landry]

Originally Posted by earl9653

I use the 1k/10k Fastway e2 hitch. It's a WD with 2 point sway control. For the last 4 weeks I've been pulling my 2011 Flight 22FB over 3k miles with a 2011 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel. The hitch has performed great. I bought it for $390 and easy to self install.

Here is the link for info: http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/e2/

You got enough truck for that trailer?

[Denise]

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

I'm using a single friction bar with my 2FB and I have no sway that I know of. That said, I don't know if it's the sway bar working or a correctly loaded trailer. If the traile is loaded right, you probably don't need sway control, but how do you determine that? I don't know. I have a new Outback on the way that's going to be around 7500lbs dry, and I'll probably go to a dual cam for that one.

I stumbled across the reference to the single friction bar I referred to in an earlier post; I know where I got the info from now....

Back in Sept '09 I had emailed our dealer regarding the major sway we were having with the Huskey WDH with single bar they installed. I had quoted a paragraph in the Huskey User Manual that came with the hitch. It stated that anything longer than 26' should have two stabilizing bars. Of course, it probably was just relating to their product.

[Ranger431]

I had an Equalizer on my first Jayco (232 HTT) and it worked very well. When I got my 32BHDS I went ahead and got a Hensley Arrow, which also works very well

[Denise]

Originally Posted by healthi

When we returned home, the Equalizer was installed. We could back up without disconnecting them, and even nicer, our sway was essentially gone on the interstate's and in wind. The front of our truck also rode lower. Anyhow, the Equalizer works well for our tv/tt set-up for those reasons. We did have a failure with our Equalizer and there is an easy fix for this which I should post in a new thread

Finally remembered to start a thread regarding a fix for older Equalizers if they "fail". Here. Hope this helps

[earl9653]

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

You got enough truck for that trailer?

Planning to travel through the Rockies so wanted enough truck plus enough to handle a larger TT or 5thW if we wanted to up-size. So far I'd say it's "enough truck" :hihi:

[Seann45]

Originally Posted by Ranger431

I had an Equalizer on my first Jayco (232 HTT) and it worked very well. When I got my 32BHDS I went ahead and got a Hensley Arrow, which also works very well

I thought my old setup was good... till I added the H.A. What a difference.

[David472]

I would love to have a H.A. hitch,
but alas, my budget does not yet allow for the $3500 cost.

[Seann45]

Originally Posted by David472

I would love to have a H.A. hitch,
but alas, my budget does not yet allow for the $3500 cost.

watch places like E-bay... can pick them up for $1000.00 on there... I lucked out and got mine for $350.00