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Old 11-27-2012, 01:22 PM   #11
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snip..... My problem is the dry TW plus an expected or reasonable load puts me up to or beyond the 1400 or 1500# spring bars that are available out there. My bottom mount coupler won't allow me to get a Reese with 1500#....snip
Hmmm, never had a problem with my 1,500# bars with my bottom mount coupler (lots of clearance). Oh, Reese does have 1,700# bars.

I actually prefer Jayco's design of the bottom mount couplers, especially on the taller TT frame set-ups.

Bob
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:29 PM   #12
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To clarify, here`s where I`m coming from on this. My TT has GVWR of 7500lbs. The axles are rated 7000 lbs, 3500 each and the tires I believe combine at about 7200 lbs. Now we all know that 10 to 15% will be on the tongue so all the weight is not on the tires or axles. But I do not like to cut things that close, which is why I suggest the axles, tires, springs should be rated to carry the full GVWR of the trailer. Perhaps a bit of overkill but that`s the way I would build one.
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:23 PM   #13
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Stop using "rubber" roofs and stop the mandatory options. I will soon be a former Jayco motorhome owner because the Greyhawk doesn't have a fiberglass roof and because it does have a number of required options that I don't want.

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Old 11-27-2012, 03:29 PM   #14
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I think they should add a decent bumper or better yet a rack add on like I believe Heartland does on all models to hold bikes or a rack, lift kits should be standard with double step, bring back the decent tub depth like in 2012 or before in showers, bring back 2011 or older bath sinks with stopper that works, don't ever chinz on bed mattresses like many other makes are doing, make dinette more roomy for sitting, add step up with storage for each bunk end, add frig fan for faster cooling, create a breeze fan or something better than what is there now in bath.
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Old 11-27-2012, 04:09 PM   #15
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To clarify, here`s where I`m coming from on this. My TT has GVWR of 7500lbs. The axles are rated 7000 lbs, 3500 each and the tires I believe combine at about 7200 lbs. Now we all know that 10 to 15% will be on the tongue so all the weight is not on the tires or axles. But I do not like to cut things that close, which is why I suggest the axles, tires, springs should be rated to carry the full GVWR of the trailer. Perhaps a bit of overkill but that`s the way I would build one.
Got it now CM,
I am a little slow at times lol

I thought you were trying to help us with our weight distribution problem, but you were just adding design comments "-)

Your design basis would solve my problem, that's a good one.

Best regards,
Doug
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:02 PM   #16
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Rustic, I bought a Reese WD on the advice of Cliff's Welding in Mesa. Took the TT in for installation, went to breakfast and rec'd a call that that hitch wouldn't fit well on my coupler and suggested the Equalizer, which maxed at 1400.

Crabman, maybe I misunderstood your post's intent. I too like safety margins. That's why I don't like maxing out on TW. Used to be many things were over-engineered for additional safety. My SIL, an engineer, says many things still are. But I find so many products that get cheaper and cheaper every model until they barely do their job that I'm leary.
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:49 PM   #17
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Got it now CM,
I am a little slow at times lol

I thought you were trying to help us with our weight distribution problem, but you were just adding design comments "-)

Your design basis would solve my problem, that's a good one.

Best regards,
Doug
Quote:
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Crabman, maybe I misunderstood your post's intent. I too like safety margins. That's why I don't like maxing out on TW. Used to be many things were over-engineered for additional safety. My SIL, an engineer, says many things still are. But I find so many products that get cheaper and cheaper every model until they barely do their job that I'm leary.

My bad, I posted my comments right after yours which made for a bit of confusion. It was intended as a reply to the OP, how I would design one.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:27 PM   #18
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I would like to see a 60 X 80 bed.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:45 PM   #19
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Replace the standard 751 compartment locks with better quality locks keyed different on each RV so your neighbors key will not fit your locks.
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:44 PM   #20
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Replace the standard 751 compartment locks with better quality locks keyed different on each RV so your neighbors key will not fit your locks.
x2
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