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Old 05-29-2019, 12:44 PM   #21
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I did the same thing this past weekend, after watching the same video. Itís been pretty cool here in southeast Ontario so wasnít able to really test it. There is another video with a second mod rverís can make on the roof top unit cowl. If I locate the link again I will share it
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Old 05-29-2019, 12:47 PM   #22
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https://youtu.be/aWUqQnEw-8Y
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Old 05-29-2019, 12:48 PM   #23
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Need to check mine!
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Old 05-29-2019, 01:01 PM   #24
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I have a 355 MBQS. Last year I made sure both of my dividers were ok, one was good one needed to be fixed. I Removed each register in the ceiling and taped the gap between the ceiling And the duct and replaced the register. I then went into the spare bedroom where the return is for the heater I removed the grill and insulated behind it replaced the grill and that stopped a ton of hot air coming into the trailer from the basement. Now the trailer cause ve I then went into the spare bedroom where the return is for the heater I removed the grill and insulated behind it replace the grill and that stopped a ton of hot air coming into the trailer from the basement. That helped a lot but the kitchen living room area still was not getting enough air. I purchased two new registers and added them in the living/kitchen area. Now I have six registers in those roo now I have six registers in that area. I can run both air-conditioners on high without building too much pressure in that room gets all the air it needs. If Jayco would just add the two extra registers in the kitchen/living area it would be a tremendous help
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:03 PM   #25
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I have a Jayco FW but there is no access to the AC system other than the vents and the hot air return. Anybody have any ideas how to apply the tips in this video to a newer FW with limited access to the AC system?
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:11 PM   #26
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I have a Jayco FW but there is no access to the AC system other than the vents and the hot air return. Anybody have any ideas how to apply the tips in this video to a newer FW with limited access to the AC system?

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Old 05-29-2019, 05:09 PM   #27
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Here is another take on the same theme. This one, you don't get on the roof, all done inside the coach. Did this to mine, big, big difference. Was not done well from the factory.

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Old 05-29-2019, 07:58 PM   #28
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I wonder how you check this with a whisper quiet system? No big square cover plate to use for access.
I asked dealer after telling them what I found. they said u pull ac from the top and look to make any repairs u may need. I'll be helping my friend with his in the next couple weeks. I'll post the findings.
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Old 05-29-2019, 08:07 PM   #29
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I've always wanted one of these. Maybe this is a good reason to get one?https://www.amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Endo...SIN=B01MYTHWK4
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Old 05-29-2019, 09:52 PM   #30
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Wow! just checked mine and the divider was installed backwards (foil side was on the out take). Half inch gap showing past the divider, soon to be foil taped up
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Old 05-30-2019, 04:28 AM   #31
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All the inspecting and cleaning can be done from the to by removing the access panels on the roof of the rig. Not easy but it won't be something that needs to be done every year.
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Old 05-30-2019, 04:32 AM   #32
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All the inspecting and cleaning can be done from the top by removing the access panels on the roof of the rig. Not easy but it won't be something that needs to be done every year.

I just did both of my Coleman Mach III units. all access was from the roof and the hole going into the unit from the roof cab be protected with towels and plastic. All wiring can be disconnected with removal of one quick connect cable.

There are better video's than this one that show the work required.
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Old 05-30-2019, 05:43 AM   #33
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That correct. Remove the a/c shroud ( cover) then remove the 5/16 screws from the sheet metal. You can access the divider from the intake side. If you need to get to the blower side you will have to remove the fan assembly. Be careful. You will have to unloosing the condenser and pull it back a lil. Then you can remove the fan blade then the motor. Take your time it can be done.
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Old 05-30-2019, 03:45 PM   #34
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So I watched a video, well a couple, that talked about maximizing ur ac systems. so I went to town this weekend taping up all the air leaks in my ac's. It now blows about 25% better.....
Watched the video. My ac didnít have a baffle at all. Bought a sheet of styrofoam house insulation (1/2Ē) and put two pieces together to equal the width of the tray. Is this going to be ok or did I create a problem?
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Old 05-30-2019, 03:55 PM   #35
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Also, I was able to put it in by only taking off the inside cover (where the filter is located). I could easily see the intake and discharge. Did I place it in the correct place?
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Old 05-30-2019, 09:18 PM   #36
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Watched the video. My ac didnít have a baffle at all. Bought a sheet of styrofoam house insulation (1/2Ē) and put two pieces together to equal the width of the tray. Is this going to be ok or did I create a problem?
That should be ok.
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Old 05-30-2019, 09:19 PM   #37
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That should be ok.
Thank you for your reply
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Old 05-30-2019, 09:57 PM   #38
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Also, I was able to put it in by only taking off the inside cover (where the filter is located). I could easily see the intake and discharge. Did I place it in the correct place?
Yes you did. The idea is to divide the incoming air from the outgoing air ( to simplify the conversation). Use sliver duct tape thats made for a/c ducts. Spend the extra money and get the good stuff. It sounds like you are on the right track
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Old 05-30-2019, 10:16 PM   #39
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You’re welcome
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Old 06-01-2019, 11:01 AM   #40
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One thing to remember is that an A/C will generally only cool 20 degrees below ambient outside temps. If it's 100 outside, expect high 70's inside. An RV a/c isnt anywhere near as powerful or efficient as your home system. Also, the bolts do come loose from traveling, bumping, shaking, curves, etc that come with normal use and towing. You do have to check them and tighten them occassionally.
Good video and thanks for sharing!
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