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Old 04-09-2022, 04:17 AM   #1
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jayco jay flight SLX7 195RB

contacted customer service again to see about location of solar prep wires .
so impressed by the no help with anything policy really wants to help me to be a long term customer .
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Old 04-09-2022, 08:16 AM   #2
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contacted customer service again to see about location of solar prep wires .
so impressed by the no help with anything policy really wants to help me to be a long term customer .
Yea, that was what I came across too. Their answer was always, go talk to the dealer and touch anything and your warranty is toast. Very unhelpful. You quickly discover that you're on your own and if you want to do almost anything, you risk your warranty.

The solar prep is located in several places.

The external prep is simply a connection on the trailer tongue where you can plug in an external solar panel.



The roof-top prep should be a connector where you can plug in a roof-mounted solar panel (Jayco uses the Go Power Overlander 190 Watt)



As well as wiring (usually in the bedroom) where the Solar Charge Controller connects (Jayco uses Go Power OEM units).



You can use this prep wiring to install whatever components you choose. It's not difficult.
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Old 04-09-2022, 08:37 AM   #3
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Solar

Have roof top connection nothing labeled inside and no outside connection down below
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Old 04-09-2022, 08:53 AM   #4
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Odds are that you have a solar cable connection on the roof and wires that run down inside. It may be just about anywhere. Hopefully, it will be behind a wall where there is a solar sticker. You may have to cut into the wall to get to the wires. Or they may terminate inside under the bed or in the over bed closet or just somewhere else. I didn't get solar prep so I am adding a gland connection above the little closet over the bed on the hatch side and running the wires down through the the

If you have "Solar on the Side" then there is a connection port on the side and wires run inside and that is it. Meant to be used with a suitcase solar.

I got my solar system from Renogy and have spent some time talking with them regarding my 195RB if you have more questions. They also have referral discounts.
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Old 04-09-2022, 02:48 PM   #5
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THIS is interesting... I am wanting to add solar to my 195RB but I have a 2019 model without any such "luxuries"...

If you don't mind helping me out, where are these connectors located? What are they wired to?

Since I relocated my batteries to under the dinette I don't have or need a wire at the hitch, but that roofing one intrigues me - I can fish a wire from the roof since it's next to the door (at least I think I can... LOL)
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Old 04-09-2022, 03:08 PM   #6
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Solar

All I have and see is connection on roof to knoware
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Old 04-09-2022, 03:09 PM   #7
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Not sure Mrkabc where you are talking about. I was looking at going to the front edge of the roof where it meets metal and boring a hole into the hanging closet by the bed, then route it on the wall or maybe fish it inside the wall down to the under bed area. I have a piece of plywood to attach the MPPT and switches onto that I will attach to the front wall of the under bed storage area near the hatch for easy access.

Does this make sense. Love to find a better way.
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Old 04-10-2022, 06:36 AM   #8
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THIS is interesting... I am wanting to add solar to my 195RB but I have a 2019 model without any such "luxuries"...

If you don't mind helping me out, where are these connectors located? What are they wired to?

Since I relocated my batteries to under the dinette I don't have or need a wire at the hitch, but that roofing one intrigues me - I can fish a wire from the roof since it's next to the door (at least I think I can... LOL)
Jayco only recently started including a solar prep roof connector, your 2019 may not have one. If it did, you would plainly see it on the roof.

Wiring can be added to any RV, but it requires some skill to route it. For connecting a solar panel on the roof, you'll need to find a way to run a wire from the roof to the chassis. From there, it can be routed back up to the dinette. You could do this in a closet/pantry or any other such accessible area such as the entertainment area, the appliance area, etc. It takes a little skill and finesse, but it's usually doable.
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Old 04-11-2022, 07:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAL9001 View Post
Jayco only recently started including a solar prep roof connector, your 2019 may not have one. If it did, you would plainly see it on the roof.

Wiring can be added to any RV, but it requires some skill to route it. For connecting a solar panel on the roof, you'll need to find a way to run a wire from the roof to the chassis. From there, it can be routed back up to the dinette. You could do this in a closet/pantry or any other such accessible area such as the entertainment area, the appliance area, etc. It takes a little skill and finesse, but it's usually doable.
Right. Adding wiring isn't the problem, I was more interested in what the connectors are that are on the roof and how solar could be mounted without damaging the membrane. All I need to do is fish a wire from the roof down the doorway to my battery bank under the dinette. That's easy.

Then I saw the connectors might be proprietary to "Go Power" and saw a burned out controller in another thread - so it's definitely "what does everyone think is a good idea?"
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Old 04-12-2022, 07:21 AM   #10
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Right. Adding wiring isn't the problem, I was more interested in what the connectors are that are on the roof and how solar could be mounted without damaging the membrane. All I need to do is fish a wire from the roof down the doorway to my battery bank under the dinette. That's easy.

Then I saw the connectors might be proprietary to "Go Power" and saw a burned out controller in another thread - so it's definitely "what does everyone think is a good idea?"
Mounting a solar panel without damaging the membrane is not an issue. You simply install the mounts that come with the panel and then seal them with Dicor and EternaBond just as you would with any other RV roof component.

The connectors are generic and can be used with any panel. You can easily buy matching connectors. As far as the controller, they usually use bare wires that attach to the terminals on the controller. You don't need to use Go Power, there are many brands and models to choose from.

You can find all the answers you may have at Will Prowse's Mobile Solar Power website.
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Old 04-16-2022, 09:13 AM   #11
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I have a sticker on the wall next to the right side shirt closet that allegedly is the location for the wiring. I have the plug on the roof in that general area. I have not been brave enough to look any further for the wires as I am not ready for solar yet.
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Old 04-20-2022, 01:39 PM   #12
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@RallyAce, as you have not cut any holes yet it might be good to think about the type of controller you may want to go with before you do. They make it look like you have to use a GoPower controller however that is just one company in a large ocean of equipment. With that being said the wire that is in your wall, may not be cut yet. If that is the case it would generally go down to the area where the battery cut off switch is (if you can see the back side of that switch). If you can do a continuity type test that may save you cutting a hole and provide a better location out of view/way for the charge controller if/when you install one.

In my case solar came with the trailer and hole was already cut, I am reusing that space for the remote inverter controller. But have to devise a back plate to cover the larger hole that will now be there.
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Old 04-20-2022, 03:07 PM   #13
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If you have the solar prep gland on the roof, it's a good bet that the wire comes straight down from the gland into the most convenient wall or cabinet space below the gland that goes all the way to the floor.

Jayco's solar prep on my rig is routed as follows:
  • Down from the gland into a wall cavity, with the location for the charge controller marked with a label on the wall.
  • After the charge controller, the wires appear to join in parallel with the wires between the battery bank and the Converter/Charger. In my case, the solar wiring is well ahead of the location of the Converter, so I suspect that my wires just bug onto the battery wires...very simple.

There's one really great source for top quality "walk arounds" in many RVs. Josh the RV Nerd at Haylett RV does one of the best jobs of showing RVs.
This video is for a Jay Flight SLX. Not sure it's your precise model, but guess what it shows...around 26 seconds into the video, it shows the charge controller label.

In this video, the label appears to be over the bedroom window on the curb side, behind the dinette.

Look closely to be sure I am sharing a video about the correct model, but you can scour dealer videos until you find one that shows the location of the label on your exact model.

By the way, if you plan to recess-mount your charge controller, this is the best kind of saw to do the job. Extremely precise and easily controlled. It makes very clean cuts, and you don't have a saw blade plunging into the wall cavity. If you don't want to invest real money into a good tool, buy a cheap, off-brand corded one at Walmart for $30 or so to do this job.
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Old 04-20-2022, 03:12 PM   #14
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Mounting a solar panel without damaging the membrane is not an issue. You simply install the mounts that come with the panel and then seal them with Dicor and EternaBond just as you would with any other RV roof component.

The connectors are generic and can be used with any panel. You can easily buy matching connectors. As far as the controller, they usually use bare wires that attach to the terminals on the controller. You don't need to use Go Power, there are many brands and models to choose from.

You can find all the answers you may have at Will Prowse's Mobile Solar Power website.
I added one thing between the solar panel bracket and roof. Butyl tape. This squashes out under the bracket and provides a 360 degree seal below the brackent. The the Dicor self leveling sealant over the top. Belt and suspenders.
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Old 04-22-2022, 05:04 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by MrKABC View Post
THIS is interesting... I am wanting to add solar to my 195RB but I have a 2019 model without any such "luxuries"...

If you don't mind helping me out, where are these connectors located? What are they wired to?

Since I relocated my batteries to under the dinette I don't have or need a wire at the hitch, but that roofing one intrigues me - I can fish a wire from the roof since it's next to the door (at least I think I can... LOL)
I have a 2015 195RB and I installed 400 watts of solar mostly on the rear area of the roof. I used MC-4 connectors for all connections and ran the 2 cables down along the plumbing roof vent down to the area between the shower plumbing and the water heater. There should be an access panel there for the water heater. Then over to the wall above the kitchen sink and mounted the Go-Power 30 amp solar charge controller close to where the water tanks level gauges are. I resealed the roof around the plumbing vent with self leveling Dicor. That was 3 years ago and so far, so good.
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Old 04-04-2024, 09:23 AM   #16
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SLX 195RB Opinions Needed

Hello all,
Newbie here looking for input on the Jayco 195RB Baja Edition.
I've been doing my research on buying a travel trailer. I've done my share of tent camping and will be renting a TT before buying. I am looking at the 195RB for the layout and weight. It's just my wife and I and our goal is short camping trips. I am aware that this is an entry level unit with lower build and material quality but I'm not looking for top of the line for my first TT.
Things I've learned from reading and talking with experienced friends, all TTs will have issues, some minor, some major, every times it moves, it breaks. Small, lightweight TTs tend to bounce more causing more minor issues to resolve. Don't count on the warranty transferring on a used unit. Refrigerator and ac/furnace repairs could be costly and time consuming.
I am an adamant DIYer and have no reservations about minor and most major issues that could go wrong.

So..... from experienced users:
How is the Jayco brand to work on yourself?
Does this model have long term potential (to own, not long term camping)?
Should I go used and let the previous owner fix all the break-in period headaches and minor mods or just buy the new one and then everything I do is to my quality? There is a Jayco dealer in town so there is local warranty service.
Are replacement parts or upgrades readily available?
Is Jayco a good entry level brand or should I stay away from it?
I can't find a lot of reviews out there on this particular model so I'm hoping that's a good sign.

Any and all info is greatly appreciated!
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Old 04-04-2024, 09:50 AM   #17
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Happy With Ours

We had a 195RB and were very happy with it. The only issue we had was a thermocouple failure on the hot water heater. Not a Jayco issue as it was a purchased component for them, but our dealer was very good at locating a part for us while we were on the road and it only took me a few minutes to change it out.
Ultimately the unit was a bit small for us and we traded up to a Class A. Build quality was decent and what could be expected from its price point. Ours had a huge pantry between the bathroom and kitchen which was great although the larger refrigerator is a reasonable tradeoff for the loss of space. Underbed storage was inconvenient at times as things could be difficult to access from the outside hatch. It towed like a dream behind our Honda Pilot.Would I buy another one if it fit our future needs, yes.
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Old 04-04-2024, 11:58 AM   #18
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We got ours in 2017 and have taken it for weekend, 1 or 2 week long trips over maybe 30,000 miles.

The bad, limited storage, lousy seat cushions, mattress trash, front window (which I think was deleted?) leaked due to a poor seal that I fixed myself.
Since then I went with next size up Goodyears and after bouncing quite a bit I lowered pressure to actual weight/pressure on Goodyear chart with better result.

Absolutely love my Jeep with Andersen hitch with just no wind/sway problems. Have done a bunch of small mods to increase utility like bed lifters, hinge of access to pump area, shelves, insulated under bed, 200 watts Renogy solar, MPPT and Lithium. Don't waste money on cheap group 24 lead, apply it towards a Renogy with blue tooth status. Got a 10 inch Zinus short queen for great sleeping!. Replaced dim bulbs with LEDs on outside and LED taillights and LED backup lights. Etearnabonded all seams on roof at year 4.

Love it and did more if you are interested PM me.
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Old 04-04-2024, 03:25 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by LAM66 View Post
Hello all,
Newbie here looking for input on the Jayco 195RB Baja Edition.
I've been doing my research on buying a travel trailer. I've done my share of tent camping and will be renting a TT before buying. I am looking at the 195RB for the layout and weight. It's just my wife and I and our goal is short camping trips. I am aware that this is an entry level unit with lower build and material quality but I'm not looking for top of the line for my first TT.
Things I've learned from reading and talking with experienced friends, all TTs will have issues, some minor, some major, every times it moves, it breaks. Small, lightweight TTs tend to bounce more causing more minor issues to resolve. Don't count on the warranty transferring on a used unit. Refrigerator and ac/furnace repairs could be costly and time consuming.
I am an adamant DIYer and have no reservations about minor and most major issues that could go wrong.

So..... from experienced users:
How is the Jayco brand to work on yourself?
Does this model have long term potential (to own, not long term camping)?
Should I go used and let the previous owner fix all the break-in period headaches and minor mods or just buy the new one and then everything I do is to my quality? There is a Jayco dealer in town so there is local warranty service.
Are replacement parts or upgrades readily available?
Is Jayco a good entry level brand or should I stay away from it?
I can't find a lot of reviews out there on this particular model so I'm hoping that's a good sign.

Any and all info is greatly appreciated!
OK, HERE GOES...a lot of questions require a lot of answers.
FIRST. You've "highjacked" another thread, and only those on the thread will even see this, and fewer may answer. So I suggest that either you copy/paste this post into a new thread or ask the moderators to do it for you.

With that out of the way.

1) It appears this rig comes in two forms: Stick and Tin, or Fiberglass with welded Aluminum box section frame (for the coach). Fiberglass skin over welded aluminum box section frame is vastly superior, especially if you boondock (dispersed camping as you might in a tent). Stick and tin is cheaper, and because of that they sometimes come more lavishly equipped, but they are more fragile.

2) RVs are like box-house computers. They are ASSEMBLED from a broad variety of other manufacturers' parts. The RV manufacturer buys someone else's chassis, running gear, tires, fridge, stove, microwave, furnace, hot water heater, water pump, water and waste tanks, plumbing fixtures, propane regulator, tongue jack, converter, AC unit, awning, and, and, and. Then they build the coach body on and around all that stuff...and throw all that junk in there. It's important to note that in a rig your size, there are, perhaps, 2 brands of furnace, water heater, range, fridge, and so on. In other words, most of the rigs are pretty much the same when it comes down to how they are equipped by any given RV manufacturer.
WHAT DOES THIS SAY ABOUT WORKING ON JAYCOS? Pretty much the same as working on Forest River or any other brand drawing from the same parts bins. You're not working on a Jayco (unless its the walls and roof and floor). Your working on Dometic, Norcold, Suburban, Atwood (a Dometic by another name), Shurflo, RecPro. The frame, suspension and axles are 3rd party products. It will be a rare occasion indeed that you actually work on something Jayco...say the interior paneling, 120 volt wiring, and so on. Even the roof is a 3rd party product, from manufacturers of EPDM, TPO and some fiberglass products...in the case of EPDM, I think the company behind Dicor Self Leveling Lap Sealant makes the roof (I could be wrong).
Jayco makes precious little of what you buy when you buy a Jaco RV...none of the RV manufacturers do.

3) A lightweight, single-axle rig isn't necessarily more violent when it comes to how it rides. The fact is that, because they don't have shock absorbers, ALL rigs ride like crap. They all bounce unless you add shocks...and in rigs like the one you're eyeballing, that ain't happenin'. The smoothest ride for an RV is at the hitch ball, because the tow vehicle's suspension is far more sophisticated than the ox-cart axles added to RVs. The worst ride on the RV is at the rear bumper. NEVER, EVER, EVER hang a bike rack off the rear bumper or receiver hitch on an RV that doesn't have shocks...unless you hate your bicycles. If you want to carry bikes, there are carriers that go over the propane tank(s) or in your TV (tow vehicle) bed or on the roof.

4) If you take care of your rig....NUMBER ONE, DON'T ALLOW LEAKS...it could last you 20 years or more easily. Don't let the chassis rust out, don't let leaks ruin the coach, and don't let it fall apart, and you can get a LOT of years out of it, especially if you don't use it a lot.
GET A COVER for it to protect it from UV deterioration when it's parked/stored.

5) Warranty service on almost every RV from every manufacturer sucks. You lose your rig for weeks, have to drag it to and from the dealer, and they often do their level best to find a way to make you pay.
I DID HAVE 3 INSTANCES OF WARRANTY SERVICE:
a) The fiberglass roof on my popup began to delaminate in YEAR 5...the last year of the roof warranty. I documented with the manufacturer (Forest River) and they agreed that it was a warranty issue. They agreed to replace the roof in the off season. I finished the summer with a health gob of caulk on the cracks. In the winter, I brought it to a dealer for about a month, and they swapped out the roof. 100% happy.
b) On my Jayco, the rear spring hanger on my double axle rig broke clean off. The FRAME MANUFACTURER was great, and they paid for a mobile welder to repair and reinforce. There was no towing the thing to a dealer anyway, because one of the axles was hanging cockeyed. Not Jayco's fault.
c) On my Jayco, the main leaf on one of the springs on my Dexter axles broke. I proceeded with the repair with the help of a mobile RV repair. Again there was no towing the thing to a dealer anyway, because one of the axles was hanging cockeyed. I got it fixed and fought tooth and nail with Dexter for 6 months before they finally accepted responsibility and reimbursed me. Not Jayco's fault.

Beyond that, I've DIY'd myriad repairs: replaced the microwave, pulled the furnace 3 times before diagnosing the sail switch (all in the field), replaced the tongue jack (3rd party part), replaced the propane regulator...even though it was recalled for the very problem I had, the manuf. wouldn't replace it unless I BROUGH THE RIG TO A DEALER to remove the fitting, replace the regulator, and "test" it. I replaced the garbage kitchen faucet Jayco chose after one of the hoses that are part of the faucet blew clean off the faucet. I replaced their $10 faucet with a $100 faucet from Home Depot. Much better. Then there are the myriad screws and other fasteners that just fall apart on a new rig. Easy fix. Toothpick and glue in the hole, replace screw. Or Gorilla glue in the hole, replace screw. Upsize screw and replace screw. Lots of that, but no biggie.
I also installed 400 watts of solar on the roof and repaired two scrapes from low hanging branches that damaged the EPDM...can only blame that one on me.

6) Replacements... super easy. Amazon has almost everything, and eTrailer can fill in any blanks. Because so much of the stuff is off-the-shelf, you can buy many replacements at ANY RV dealer or even a hardware store. If you do something dumb like break your door frame, remember that most of the doors are the same, but you'll probably have to order from Jayco. Even things like taillights and such are basically off-the-shelf parts added to your rig. If you break your skylight over the shower, add duct tape and place an order. It will get there sooner or later.

7) Jayco is a decent brand. But RV brands are a constantly evolving mess of owners. Thor Industries owns Jayco...at least for now. This'll make your eyes roll: https://www.thorindustries.com/thor-companies In travel trailers, I'd say Thor owns from the best, Airstream, to the worst, Starcraft. But even the Starcraft is serviceable enough, because, wait for it, Starcraft only makes the body, and they fill it with more or less the same bits that other manufacturers have at their disposal.

So, you're a tent guy that wants to step up in the world. There are MANY considerations that can impact your choice of rig.
1) What is your tow vehicle? That means everything when it comes to what you can tow.
2) Are you an RV park guy or a boondocker? If you boondock, there's a LOT to know...which I'd be happy to cover in a sequel.
3) The junk battery a dealer will supply (a group 24 lead acid "marine" battery) with a new rig is just that. Get $100 off the price and bring your own LiFePo4. A new rig will come with a converter/charger that can be setup to handle a lithium battery. OLDER RIGS MAY NOT, AND UPGRADING TO LITHIUM WILL BE MORE COMPLICATED...BUT VERY DO-ABLE. If you go Lithium, you must take steps to protect your tow vehicle (TV) alternator, too....but no big deal. This is a book in its own right.
4) What kind of fridge comes with the rig? I have a 120 volt/propane "absorption" fridge...the good old RV fridge that runs on propane in the boonies. These days, it's all the rage to install a 12-volt compressor fridge. Great if you always have electric hookups, but terrible if you boondock. These fridges will, at minimum, eat an entire group 24 marine battery per day...or more. To run one, you really need solar, lithium and a good generator. Another book-length discussion.
5) And if you boondock, that means you will tote water in your freshwater tank. Fully loaded freshwater tanks are notorious for falling out onto the road, unless they are reinforced. Yup, yet another book.
6) An extra throw in: for giggles I'll mention that stabilizer jacks are most definitely NOT leveling jacks. To level your rig side to side (essential for refrigerator health), there are many methods. I personally prefer the Anderson Style leveler. Then you use the tongue jack for fore-and-aft leveling. Once level, drop the stab jacks. Whatever you do, get the Hopkins Levels to add to the rig. Their main advantage is the flat bottom and top that allow you to apply them to a straight surface without having to level your rig first.
But I digress.

Your not going to believe this, but I've barely scratched the surface. But if you're good at DIY, you'll do fine, and the forum is a great place to learn.

My Jayco is below...festooned with 400 watts of solar (which I installed when I was 71), two big 6 volt golf cart batteries in series on the tongue (when Lithium was a kilobuck a pop), and my cherished propane fridge. All we do is boondock, and in 2020, I had a choice. Today, a new rig might only offer the 12 volt compressor fridge, so you'll need to upscale your solar and battery if you boondock...and you'll need a generator. There are many to choose from, but I like mine. We don't need air conditioning in the Colorado Rockies. The other two images are where we camp...no hookups. If you squint, you'll see the rig parked about 1/4 mile down an ATV trail.
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Solar on Jayco Close.jpg   Lost Park 2020 - 2.jpg   Lake Vallecito - 8-10-23.jpg  
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Old 04-04-2024, 06:12 PM   #20
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Thank you all for the feedback and great ideas. I'll be looking later this fall to purchase so plenty of time to do more research. Yes jimmoore13, mostly off grid camping. Thank you for the very detailed feedback.
Apologies on the hijacking, I didn't even know I was a terrorist? Crazy world these days, go figure. I'll get working now on moving this. ��
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