Keeping moisture inside down

Hooknline · 02-09-2018, 09:07 AM

Good morning. We have a 24rbs new to use. We keep it under cover where there is power when not in use. To keep the mold down, we plug the 30 amp cord into a normal 3 prong residential outlet adapter that’s on a timer. That circuit is 20 amp. The timer is set to run for 1 hour each day and the only thing turned on is the Ac and the inverter/charger for the batteries.
Does anyone see any problems with this setup? I’m not sure on the Ac size or draw, but it seems to be working. Thanks

DonaandDon · 02-09-2018, 09:11 AM

Have you considered a dehumidifier instead of running the AC? How often do you check the inside with tis setup?

Hooknline · 02-09-2018, 09:15 AM

I just set it up like this today and plan to check it daily. We’re in Central Florida, so I would think a dehumidifier would struggle to keep up

Woodworker · 02-09-2018, 09:16 AM

I don't believe runnin the a/c 1hr out of the day is goin to help you much. You would be better served with a dehumidifier at a longer run time I would believe.

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Hooknline · 02-09-2018, 09:24 AM

I can set it to run longer, or multiple times a day.

troutslayer · 02-09-2018, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Woodworker

I don't believe runnin the a/c 1hr out of the day is goin to help you much. You would be better served with a dehumidifier at a longer run time I would believe.

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I agree with this. I would also think covering it would almost be worse than leaving uncovered. JMO

Woodworker · 02-09-2018, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hooknline

I can set it to run longer, or multiple times a day.

If you do that then you need to check the draw of your a/c. Depending on how many things you have on that circuit you could create a problem. I leave our camper plugged into a 20 amp 24/7 but I don't run the a/c.

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wags999 · 02-09-2018, 11:52 AM

You should have no issues running your AC, but, as others have said a dehumidifier running 24/7 would do a much better job than an AC running for a few hours a day.

Also by cover, I assume your talking a carport type cover not a cover on the camper it self.

Good Luck...

LiftedAWDAstro · 02-10-2018, 08:32 AM

What are you using for a timer? Better be very substantial! Why not leave it plugged in and on all the time? Yeah it will use some power but your camper will thank you later. Why let the interior get super hot and damp and then try to cool and dry it every day? For $30-$50 a month in electricity, leave it on all the time.

ifallsguy · 02-10-2018, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by troutslayer

I agree with this. I would also think covering it would almost be worse than leaving uncovered. JMO

I think the OP meant it is under cover - car port or roof of some sort.

ifallsguy · 02-10-2018, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hooknline

Good morning. We have a 24rbs new to use. We keep it under cover where there is power when not in use. To keep the mold down, we plug the 30 amp cord into a normal 3 prong residential outlet adapter that’s on a timer. That circuit is 20 amp. The timer is set to run for 1 hour each day and the only thing turned on is the Ac and the inverter/charger for the batteries.
Does anyone see any problems with this setup? I’m not sure on the Ac size or draw, but it seems to be working. Thanks

First, you risk voiding your warranty on the AC since you will be underpowering it start up. Don't be surprised if that circuit breaker shuts down on startup if there is anything else running on that circuit. I'm sure your manual says use minimum of 30 amp to power. In addition, the heavy draw can cause your house wiring on that circuit to heat up. Just have a 30 amp circuit with proper outdoor outlet installed. Much safer for all the equipment and your house.

If you are under cover (car port or roof of some type), you could leave your windows cracked. You might want to check out something like Damp Rid, a moisture absorbing chemical. I've used it in a Porsche I would store during winters in northern Wisconsin. Put a container in a plastic bucket and closed up the car. Interior was dry in the spring, no condensation on windows, rug dry. Just checked every few weeks to make sure there was Damp Rid in the bag (supported a few inches above bottom of bucket). The chemical absorbs moisture and pulls it out of the air and into the bucket. Have also used here is southern GA to keep tool boxes kept in a on property storage building without climate control dry and rust free.

Much less expensive than paying electric company and less wear and tear on the AC.

ETCrockett · 02-10-2018, 09:18 AM

I'm not familiar with storing RV in Florida, but I have air flow covers over the vents on the roof. This allows me to leave the vents on the roof open all the time when in storage and while traveling. I have never had a problem with moisture or mold. If the unit is under a carport or roof and is in a secure location, I would consider leaving a couple of windows slightly open to circulate air with the open vents. Using the AC can cause an issue with tripping the circuit breaker with start up. I had a TT that used 30AMP which I would plug into a 120V GFI outlet in the garage when getting ready for a trip. There would be times when the initial surge of the AC coming own would trip the GFI fuse. If your unit is unattended, it may be days before you realize nothing has been working. With the dehumidifier, you will have to visit regularly to empty the water or put in the shower/tub in case it overflows.

ReelCool · 02-10-2018, 09:41 PM

We live south of Orlando and park our camper in the backyard with electric and sewer hookup. We do nothing except turn the refrigerator on two days before leaving and the AC on the morning of a trip. We have never had an issue with mold or mildew or musty smells. On the list his year is an RV port to park the camper under.

Hooknline · 02-11-2018, 05:43 PM

Thanks for all the replies. Yes, by under cover I mean under a roof system. It’s actially in our barn. Not covered by a tarp or fitted cover. The timer system is one of those water heater type timers I wired in. A good friend suggested I just leave the main fan on 24/7 and one light on vs running the Ac. Says he’s been doing it for years. I may try that

troutslayer · 02-12-2018, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ifallsguy

I think the OP meant it is under cover - car port or roof of some sort.

Embarrassed! 😳

wags999 · 02-12-2018, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ifallsguy

First, you risk voiding your warranty on the AC since you will be underpowering it start up. Don't be surprised if that circuit breaker shuts down on startup if there is anything else running on that circuit. I'm sure your manual says use minimum of 30 amp to power. In addition, the heavy draw can cause your house wiring on that circuit to heat up. Just have a 30 amp circuit with proper outdoor outlet installed. Much safer for all the equipment and your house.

If you are under cover (car port or roof of some type), you could leave your windows cracked. You might want to check out something like Damp Rid, a moisture absorbing chemical. I've used it in a Porsche I would store during winters in northern Wisconsin. Put a container in a plastic bucket and closed up the car. Interior was dry in the spring, no condensation on windows, rug dry. Just checked every few weeks to make sure there was Damp Rid in the bag (supported a few inches above bottom of bucket). The chemical absorbs moisture and pulls it out of the air and into the bucket. Have also used here is southern GA to keep tool boxes kept in a on property storage building without climate control dry and rust free.

Much less expensive than paying electric company and less wear and tear on the AC.

An RV AC only uses between 12 and 16 amps, you will have zero issues with your RV. Even at start you will have no issues. I have a 15,000 BTU and even at start it never gets close to 20 amps. And the draw on your household wiring, I assume a 20 amp properly wired circuit will never get over 20 amps because your breaker would trip. I have run our AC on along with the frig (uses less than 3 amps) a number of times on multiple RV's and they worked well with no issues.

Now, will it be successful or not, that's another issue. As I said before i'm more for using a dehumidifier, but nothing your considering will cause you issues with your electric, unless you try using a toaster, MW etc then, worse case you trip the breaker.

Good luck.

Hooknline · 02-19-2018, 05:15 AM

So far it’s been working well. dumping a bunch of condensate out of the drains.

**norty1** · 02-19-2018, 07:22 AM

I use a small dehumidifier from Lowes. It runs until the moisture setting is reached and shuts off. I can dump the reservoir, Auto shutoff when full, or route the drain outside.

I have used this in my under cover rig for years with the windows closed. No musty smells or mildew.

Rustic Eagle · 02-19-2018, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hooknline

So far it’s been working well. dumping a bunch of condensate out of the drains.

I would open all the cabinet doors slightly for pass-thru air circulation...., "especially" the rear wardrobe cabinet. Might want to consider raising the bed as well.

I would recommend placing a container of DamRid in the outdoor stove/sink compartment. I keep DampRid in my 24RBS's stove/sink compartment and my wardrobe cabinet....., both containers draw moisture.

Bob

BudMor · 02-19-2018, 09:15 AM

I have 4 Eva-dry E-500 hanging throughout my Jayco while its sitting for the winter. I keep is closed up tight as once the humidity is down it will stay that way other than any air leakage or door opening. I check on them once a month if the color indicator goes blue I take them out and plug them in to dry them. Haven't had any problems with moisture.

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