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Old 08-28-2015, 11:51 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by lukenick1 View Post
Can I see a pic of where you put the jack? I don't know what hangars or leaf springs are. Ha ha ha
Well not sure if this is going to work (upload pictures) so if not then it's a test.
And sorry about the spelling never been my strong suit...

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Old 08-29-2015, 05:59 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by SouthCo View Post
Here's what I do. Pull in to the spot. I put a 2' level inside the trailer on the floor and see how far off level it is side to side. Then I pull forward or backward (whatever is easier), put however many Lynx blocks I need down and then pull over them. As to how many blocks to stack? Well after you do it a few times you get a feel for what you need. Then I chock the wheels and use the jack to level front to rear. It's quick and easy for me. But there are different ways and you will find a procedure that works for you...
X2
2 foot level works great. Practice gives you experience as to how much. We keep some short 2x6's to put under our tires for right to left leveling. One under one tire equals about 1 inch lift. One under both tires gives us about 2 inches of lift. We just pull into a spot and put the level on the kitchen floor and check it out. Then turn the level long ways to level from front to back. Only takes a second once you figure out what is going on and how to do it. wood and a 2 foot level are pretty cheap. I even cut 45 degree angles on the front of my 2x6's to make it easy to roll up on.
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Old 08-29-2015, 06:43 AM   #23
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Thank you for the great advice everyone! I think I can get used to it and it will be easier. Now if only I can get the camper to stop shaking around. Lol. My boys are like fish out of water and the rocking makes me so annoyed.
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:40 AM   #24
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This may help with the "rocking". It certainly helped me.
Wobble Stopper
Hope that comes through alright.
I made a slight modification to his work, I cut two boards a few inches longer and two boards a couple inches shorter. Now i can mix and match to suit the terrain of any campsite. Otherwise one or more boards would bow the J channel at edge of camper.
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:51 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by lukenick1 View Post
Thank you for the great advice everyone! I think I can get used to it and it will be easier. Now if only I can get the camper to stop shaking around. Lol. My boys are like fish out of water and the rocking makes me so annoyed.
Good luck!!! Lol

Make sure you use regular wheel chocks before unhooking, but als try adding a set of x-chocks which help prevent some tire "roll". Depending on how long your trailer is, maybe an extra set of scissor jacks in the middle of the trailer. Do you have the scissor jacks or just the lighter duty stabilizer jacks?

After leveling, when chocking the wheels, I set one on each side, pull forward (or back up depending on what is better in relation to the board edges) into the chocks, then set the second one on each side. The trailer then "settles" into the chocks, being fairly snug. Usually I need to do the same to remove the chocks. I set the e-brake while the second set of chocks are being placed or removed to prevent any injuries.
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Old 08-29-2015, 11:22 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by mike837go View Post
How many Lynx blocs to use:
- Bubble in the middle: Whoooo-Hooo Zero! Start unpacking
- Bubble off to one side, but not touching either side, one block under one wheel
- Bubble touching the line or just past it, one block under both wheels
- Bubble clearly just past the line, two blocks under both wheels
- 1/2 the bubble under the line, go find another spot.
x2
couldn't agree more.
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Old 08-29-2015, 01:18 PM   #27
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Question/Observation
We have a 145RB Baja edition. It is 16.5 feet long from bumper to hitch.
It's fully loaded weight is less than 3500 lbs when stationary. The unit is short enough to be easily leveled from front to back by using the tongue jack.There is one BAL brand stabilizer at each of the four corners. Each stabilizer is rated for 1500 lbs. The Baja is lighter in total weight than the combined total weight rating of the four stabilizers. Could the stabilizers be used for leveling purposes? Feedback?
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Old 08-29-2015, 01:44 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by ranchosinvacas View Post
Question/Observation
We have a 145RB Baja edition. It is 16.5 feet long from bumper to hitch.
It's fully loaded weight is less than 3500 lbs when stationary. The unit is short enough to be easily leveled from front to back by using the tongue jack.There is one BAL brand stabilizer at each of the four corners. Each stabilizer is rated for 1500 lbs. The Baja is lighter in total weight than the combined total weight rating of the four stabilizers. Could the stabilizers be used for leveling purposes? Feedback?
No. Stabilizers are never for levelling. They are for stabilizing the frame. You'll bend your frame using them for levelling.

Is it a single axle trailer? If so, consider the BAL Leveler; it levels and chocks in one step. Super easy to use. With our single axle, we used that and the companion BAL single axle locking chock. The trailer was always perfectly level and rock solid from movement.
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Old 08-29-2015, 11:39 PM   #29
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One I also am a fan of the Anderson RV leveling system that would be my first recommendation. If you don't want to use those and prefer blocks no problem, I feel the best way then is to use a 2' or 4' level and a tape measure. Park in your desired spot lay down the level on the floor at the door pulled up to the edge. Then raise the low end until level. Measure the distance from floor to bottom of level. If using 2' level multiply by 4 if using 4' level multiply by 2 and that will give you the number of inches to raise to get level.
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