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04-30-2018, 07:20 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 23
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Levelling the travel trailer
Just curious how you all go about levelling your rv. I usually level left to right by putting plywood or blocks under the wheels and putting my level on the floor above the axles. Then I level front to back using the tongue jack. I did this last weekend, but when I checked 3 different places on the floor, the top of the fridge cabinet and the a-frame, I got 5 different readings, so where am I supposed to check?
We have a 2017 22BHM if it makes a difference.
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04-30-2018, 07:22 PM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Roland
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfg
Just curious how you all go about levelling your rv. I usually level left to right by putting plywood or blocks under the wheels and putting my level on the floor above the axles. Then I level front to back using the tongue jack. I did this last weekend, but when I checked 3 different places on the floor, the top of the fridge cabinet and the a-frame, I got 5 different readings, so where am I supposed to check?
We have a 2017 22BHM if it makes a difference.
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Level side to side in the middle of the floor , then front to back in same place.
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04-30-2018, 07:46 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Bellingham,Wa.
Posts: 6,680
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The most important thing to be level is the refrigerator so let's start with that. There's the 3deg. 5deg. rule that you should follow for optium efficiency and a reasonable life for the frig. Buy a 6" level and place it in the freezer base for both side to side and front to rear. The stick on levels that can also be screwed on are the easiest to use once and for all.
__________________
2010 Jayco Hybrid EXP21M
2013 Toureg TDI
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04-30-2018, 08:23 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: State of Confusion
Posts: 5,014
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Get one of these and put it on the floor of your freezer!
Level the trailer so the freezer is level and then put levels on the outside of your rig.
Murff
__________________
Murff
2015 White Hawk 20MRB (It's last year)
2017 F150 2.7 Eco Boost 3.73 Gears
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04-30-2018, 09:11 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murff
Get one of these and put it on the floor of your freezer!
Level the trailer so the freezer is level and then put levels on the outside of your rig.
Murff
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I put one of these bubble levels on my tongue, on a pool of marine caulk, and then made sure it was level.
I no longer use a traditional level.
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04-30-2018, 09:28 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Florien, LA
Posts: 1,872
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We always set the outside levels by a 4’ longitudinal and 2’ transverse level on the floor vs 6” level both ways in the fridge. Took an average and set outside levels. We have a residential fridge but pretty much the same. You still want it level.
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John and Rebecca Dickson
Emma-13 / Little John-10 / Iva-7
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat FX4, CC LB PSD, DRW
2015 Jayco Jay Flight 28BHBE (#8)
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05-01-2018, 04:16 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Longwood
Posts: 1,263
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I guess I’m ashamed to admit it, but I just eyeball the trailer as I’m setting it up, using blocks under the wheels and the tongue jack to level.
__________________
2018 Jay Flight 29RLDS
2019 F250 FWD gasser
ΣΧ, UCF '78
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05-01-2018, 04:28 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Dallas
Posts: 4,281
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The first time I leveled the trailer by using a level on the freezer rack both front to back then side to side. When that was level then I put the levels on the outside of the camper at level. There was enough variance between the floor, counter top and fridge I went with the fridge to set the bubble levels outside
__________________
Tight Lines and accurate shots
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05-01-2018, 06:04 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Middle, TN
Posts: 1,098
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Back into our site while watching the LevelMatePro display on my phone that's on a magnetic mount on the TV dash. As I find a reasonably level area I jump out and throw the Andersen rapid jack under the low side, then back in the truck to back onto the jack while watching the display. When it says the TT is level I jump out and chock the wheels, then unhitch and run the tongue jack to the correct height while watching the display.
Takes a max of 5 minutes from backing in to unloading the truck, usually faster. I carry one light weight leveler for all occasions. Quick and easy.
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05-01-2018, 07:02 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kingston
Posts: 1,210
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The DW use to use the skillet with water in it so eggs don't run and the bathroom door. So glad my NP has the auto leveling system. Now she can blame the auto level.
__________________
Don & Donna Stout
E-9 Anchor Clanker
Full timers since 2010
2017 North Point 381 DLQS
2015 F-250 6.7 w/Timbrens
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05-01-2018, 07:39 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Chicago
Posts: 242
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Although a little on the pricey side for what it is, I was gifted a ReVo leveler and loved it. You level the trailer once and then set the ReVo. I used Anderson levelers, which worked well for the ReVo. You pull into your site, attach the ReVo and it tells you which side is low. You put the Andersons on the indicated side and slowly drive up until the big green arrows light up (you see them in your mirror). The Andersons work great for this because they are progressive vs. blocks, but IIRC, the ReVo can also tell you how many inches you need to raise the low side. Anyway, after side to side is done, chock and unhitch and then the ReVo tells you where to set your tongue jack.
As long as you're dead on with your level when you set the ReVo, it duplicates it perfectly every time.
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05-01-2018, 05:34 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Gilmer, Texas
Posts: 1,053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfg
Just curious how you all go about levelling your rv. I usually level left to right by putting plywood or blocks under the wheels and putting my level on the floor above the axles. Then I level front to back using the tongue jack. I did this last weekend, but when I checked 3 different places on the floor, the top of the fridge cabinet and the a-frame, I got 5 different readings, so where am I supposed to check?
We have a 2017 22BHM if it makes a difference.
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Very carefully push the button marked " Auto-level "
__________________
S.A.Young
2011 321RLTS
2012 Chevy duramax dually
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05-01-2018, 06:22 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: kaml
Posts: 1,285
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Doesn't matter what you pick for the location to check for level, just don't check another spot after you think it's done or you'll go crazy. These things torque too much to check multiple spots.
I use the level on the rear bumper to get side to side before I unhook then the basement door opening to get front to back. Then I open the fridge and take out a beer. Done.
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05-01-2018, 06:32 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: McKean, PA
Posts: 1,073
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When we brought our trailer home the first time, I parked on a pat of our drive way that is reasonably level and leveled the trailer with a 4 foot level using the floor. Once I had the trailer level, I stuck on two calibrated levels on the back corner (You could use the front corner) of our V-nosed trailer. Now when I park in a spot, I can look at the side to side level and determine exactly how much to put under the wheel and which side it should be added. I move forward slightly, put down the blocks or boards and back up, chock the wheels and disconnect. Then it is a simple matter to crank the front up or down to get level in that direction.
These are the type of levels I stuck on the trailer.
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2011 Skylark 21FKV
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05-01-2018, 06:33 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Dallas
Posts: 4,281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by us71na
When we brought our trailer home the first time, I parked on a pat of our drive way that is reasonably level and leveled the trailer with a 4 foot level using the floor. Once I had the trailer level, I stuck on two calibrated levels on the back corner (You could use the front corner) of our V-nosed trailer. Now when I park in a spot, I can look at the side to side level and determine exactly how much to put under the wheel and which side it should be added. I move forward slightly, put down the blocks or boards and back up, chock the wheels and disconnect. Then it is a simple matter to crank the front up or down to get level in that direction.
These are the type of levels I stuck on the trailer.
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X2 on the levels. Wasn't sure how they'd hold up on the metal sides buy they work so far
__________________
Tight Lines and accurate shots
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05-01-2018, 06:44 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Orlando
Posts: 186
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I put my wife in the trailer and tell her to walk from front to the rear and back again.... if she goes faster in one direction, I know to level it... if she goes to fast and hits a wall, I have to make dinner......I usually don't make dinner.....
I use a 3 foot level next to the door, check front to back and side to side. it stores nicely next to the door between the wall and our recliner of our 28RLS. After a while you can eyeball pretty close, then fine tune with a level.
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2016 Jay Flight 28RLS
2016 Silverado LT 2500DH Diesel 4x4 with towing Package
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05-02-2018, 07:32 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Mid-Mi
Posts: 1,492
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I also leveled per the fridge & freezer, then stuck two levels on like pictured above with the inch measurements. Stuck them to the front left corner of the rig, front d side wall.
As mentioned above, back in and see what’s needed to level. Pull forward, place the estimated 2x10 boards needed down, back on and check if we’re good to go. Once set, chock, unhook, then level front/rear.
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05-17-2018, 09:02 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,402
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The first time I leveled my trailer using a standard carpenters level on the inside (focusing on getting the frig level). Once the trailer was level I applied stick on 2" levels to the outside of the trailer on the drivers side, one for left to right (this goes on the front of the trailer) and another for front to back (this goes on the side of the trailer near the front). Since I know the trailer is level the stick on levels will be placed on the trailer with the bubble in the center. Once that's done anytime I get to a campsite I use blocks to level side to side checking against the small level at the front of the trailer (I do this first) and then use the front jack to level front to back checking against the level on the side of the trailer.
__________________
2018 Jayco 28RLS
2012 F-250 6.2L 3.73
Equalizer Hitch
Yamaha 2400ISHC
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05-17-2018, 09:39 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 137
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__________________
2013 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison
2018 Jayco White Hawk 31BH
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05-17-2018, 12:47 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave.H
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Two stick on levels $5
Level Mate Pro $139
__________________
2018 Jayco 28RLS
2012 F-250 6.2L 3.73
Equalizer Hitch
Yamaha 2400ISHC
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