Making RV Port II

FeatherFam · 03-14-2018, 03:05 PM

Okay, we are going to go with concrete. No asphalt.

Contractor #1: 4" driveway with rebar and fiber and 6" RV pad with rebar and fiber; he is 30% more expensive than contractor #3 and about 20% more than contractor #2.

Contractor #2: 4" driveway with 4" gravel pack and rebar and 6" RV pad with 4" gravel pack and rebar (no fiber)

Contractor #3: 5" driveway with rebar and 5" RV pad rebar (specified no gravel pack and no fiber); cheapest, 10% less than contractor #2.

What are your thoughts on the merits of adding fiber (cost benefit please)?
What are your thoughts on the merits of gravel pack (cost benefit please)?

On the surface, we are most comfortable with contractor #1 and contractor #2. We "feel" more inclined toward them after talking extensively with all of them. All of them are knowledgable, bonded, insured, and have good references. We are leaning mostly towards #2. He is mid-priced and pretty professional. #1 is the most professional, and #3 is the least professional.

Our biggest problem with #1 is he is very expensive and will only build a $11,000 stem wall for the retaining wall. #2 has three wall options (stem, 8" decorative block, or 6" block w/smooth stucco finish). #3 only wants to build a 6"x6' wood wall. Our home is modest. We do not want or need a wall that is too upscale for the house and the neighborhood. We like the looks of all the wall types. The wall is approx. 140' and 3' at its highest points.

It looks like we will have to forgo the carport for now. We cannot afford the concrete, the wall, the electric, and the a/c disconnect/reconnect. We can also hold on the electric. We may only be able to do the wall and concrete. We are spending much more than we want, but it's what it costs.

Thoughts and insights are welcome.

**norty1** · 03-14-2018, 03:20 PM

My guy told me that if you get the fiber added there is no need for rebar. That's the way we went.

On mine, I had the cover installed and they anchored it with 4' rebar just driven the ground. I did not like it and pushed the side legs out about 6 inches on each side and had the monolithic slab formed and poured. When it dried a few weeks, we gently put the cover on the slab and drilled thru every 4' and installed a thru slab bolt with lock nuts on both sides. The concrete cost me almost as much as the shed and that was years ago. I added the water and power later.

IMO, What they are suggesting seems over kill for a typical rv.

Siamese · 03-14-2018, 03:25 PM

That's a lot of loot just to store an RV. For just the cost of your wall at 11k, I could store my trailer at the storage facility where I keep it for 30.55 years.

I understand how a roof over it would be nice, but that nice?

If the money spent isn't necessarily going to enhance your house that much value-wise, sometimes it's good to just walk away from a project and pretend someone just put fifteen grand in your pocket.

bill777x · 03-14-2018, 04:33 PM

Feather, I've been in the Ready Mix supply business for 29 years. Fiber is $5 per cubic yard in our part of the country. It is made to take the place of wire mesh, not rebar, and will help reduce small surface cracking only. The rebar, if used properly, will make the slab structurally sound and the fiber is just cheap added insurance against small surface cracks.I would recommend it and I've used it in my driveway at my own house along with rebar as well. If a guy tells you that you don't need rebar its because he's uneducated or too lazy to do the job right. If fiber took the place of steel why do they still use steel in bridges and commercial work? You have every right to talk to your local concrete plant and ask their opinion as well as check up on the contractors you are considering, if they do good work, pay their bills, etc.

Judging by the weight of your rig now 4" concrete depth will be sufficient in the driveway and trailer pad both. You should have the sub grade prepared with compacted stone and need to remember that what the slab rests on is as important as the slab itself. If you place a 4" slab insist on control joints every 10 feet. Your slab WILL crack and the joints are there to give it a place to crack in a straight line rather than in random spots that will be unsightly. Please insist on a 4000psi mix to be used throughout and do not let them pour it like soup or you will not get a good end result. Stay home the days they pour, make sure of it yourself, it is your project.

In the midwest a 4' high concrete retaining wall will run around $35-40 per running foot. This includes the footing, material, and labor. Any excavation will add to that cost as well as back fill, final grade, etc. Sometimes the most expensive guy is that way because he is going to do the job right and what he builds will stand the tests of time. A lot of cheap guys come and go but the better ones are in the business a long time. Again, these are prices in my area and your market costs can vary.

Please educate yourself about the lien laws in your area and insist on lien waivers from any material suppliers before final project payment is made. You can be forced to pay the suppliers regardless of you paying the contractor already. You have all the power until the final check is written. It is your job and you can hire anybody to do it, go look at work they've done in the past. If they have been around a while it shouldn't be a problem to see things they've done 10 years ago. If they can't point you towards work done within the last 5 you may want to get somebody else.

Again, you have all the power until the last check is written. Any changes should be agreed upon in writing by you and the contractor. If they won't sign a contract or agree to your terms find somebody else. A good contractor will make your project a breeze, a bad one will make it a lasting nightmare.

Good luck, my advice is worth exactly what you've paid for it

dennis b · 03-14-2018, 04:48 PM

Did my drive last year. After much research We opted for rebar and 4 inch 6 bag mix.
Don't need to go with 6" unless you are driving a loaded quad axle truck on it continuously. TT weighs in at about 6,500 loaded sat all winter no problems

FeatherFam · 03-14-2018, 05:18 PM

No way we are spending $11k for the wall. The walls that we are considering are $3000-5000. That's one of the main reasons that we are leaning towards contractor #2.

This project has both "need" and "want" in it. We also need to act as this is a key piece in our retirement plan. It's the biggest project on the house before we retire. We need to take care of it while we are still working.

**norty1** · 03-14-2018, 05:29 PM

Good info from bill777x. Nothing like advice from someone who has done it. I readily admit that mine may be under built but we did put the control slots in and we have not had any cracking of the slab or surface cracks. Also I had some call it hog wire, with about 4 inch holes and approx. 1/4 inch thick wire that I had laying around. I suspended it in the slab before they poured it. Not rebar but some metal there. I also put every piece of scrap metal in the spot and secured it so it would be in the middle of the slab that they poured.

edit: We never have a hard freeze in my location.

Kinda amateurish but it seems to be doing the job.

wabirch · 03-14-2018, 05:33 PM

Consider a deeper excavation and more gravel, not sure if freeze thaw enters your climate but a deeper gravel base is helpful.

FeatherFam · 03-14-2018, 05:36 PM

We are in central Alabama. It's clay. Future RV could be large Class C MH.

**norty1** · 03-14-2018, 06:11 PM

Agree, overkill may be prudent.

One thing I did not do and regret, I had them form it level side to side and front to back. I told the guy that poured mine and built my forms that I wanted it level. I should have told them to form it with a slight tilt front to back to allow rain water that blows in to drain faster.

Big mistake on my part.

Chiggins · 03-14-2018, 06:49 PM

Did not read all comments so forgive me if someone said this... if you mean by "gravel pack" as in a well compacted subgrade of gravel under the concrete? If so I would never work with a contractor that suggested none. He doesn't know what he is doing, that concrete will crack up without proper foundation. And for reference I manage a multi million construction company. Honest don't compare bids based on just price... interview the contractor and go with who you are confortable. Big investments you are making should be with best contractor you can afford but like you went with a more expensive jayco.

Cannon · 03-14-2018, 08:31 PM

I have over 900 yrds and most was poured in late 90's on hard Ga. clay with very little fill and stills look great after almost 20yrs. The last 400ft was done in 2005. Used different concrete co. and had lots of cracks in less than 2 years. Complained but got nowhere. Found out years later the the co. had class auction law suite for to much ash in mix. You don't need much fill as long as you have solid base that has not been disturbed and a good mix.

1955farm · 03-15-2018, 06:39 AM

Stay away from #3 contractor. Get both the gravel pack and fiber. You'll regret it if you don't. May be cheaper without but won't be nearly as stable. Also build as large as you'd ever think you'd need for any rigs in the future. It cost a lot to enlarge later and might require a total rebuild.

Remember to put in drains in the floor for washing the rig and floor. Also run pipe/conduit NOW for the future. That way you can add power and water with minimal problems in the future. And use pipe/conduit larger than you'd think you'd use to make things easier.

Bill777x is spot on.. And I'm speaking from experience as I built a 40x70 building for our Precept last year. Also using it as a shop and storing a few tractors. I used 4 inch base with 7 inches of concrete with fiber and wire due to weights that will be on the floor. It's not cheap to do but actually doesn't cost excessively more to build it to last a lifetime. Do it right and you won't regret it.

Good Luck!

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