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Old 05-24-2020, 07:31 PM   #1
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More issues with the Jayco Eagle 330RSTS

Iíve got a 2019 and itís one thing after another! Item 100 today is no cold A/C. After leaks everywhere on everything from within and out, the heater, and now the A/C. I canít believe they can sell this stuff so cheaply made for these prices!

The A/C works just no cold air. Does anyone know what voltage I should be seeing on the compressor and the 2 capacitor looking things?

The compressor reads 0.47v on every wire. The capacitor reads 237v on one and 0.57v on the other. The second bigger capacitor looking thing called the fan motor on the sheet reads 0.47v on all 3 wires.

Again the fans working. maybe the other side of the capacitor is dead, the second bigger fan motor thing is dead or the compressor is dead. I highly doubt we lost refrigerant.
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Old 05-24-2020, 07:43 PM   #2
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Again the fans working. maybe the other side of the capacitor is dead, the second bigger fan motor thing is dead or the compressor is dead. I highly doubt we lost refrigerant.
If only the squirrel cage fan is running and not the condenser fan it sounds like either a thermostat issue or a control box issue. If it was calling for cooling both fans would be running.
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Old 05-24-2020, 07:51 PM   #3
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If only the squirrel cage fan is running and not the condenser fan it sounds like either a thermostat issue or a control box issue. If it was calling for cooling both fans would be running.
I didn’t know there was 2. The only thing I hear and see is the fan on the open side that sucks air through the radiator thing on the right. Or left since these pics keep getting messed up!
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Old 05-24-2020, 08:04 PM   #4
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I didnít know there was 2. The only thing I hear and see is the fan on the open side that sucks air through the radiator thing on the right. Or left since these pics keep getting messed up!
I mis-understood your post, it sounded like you had the MACH 8 that has two fans. Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 05-24-2020, 08:12 PM   #5
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On top of the compressor you should have 120v between the black wire and the white thats hooked to compressor. If not check black input side of the overload (the round part with two black wires) to the white to see if voltage is there. If it is then the overload is bad. If not you have power supply problem.
Does the compressor ever hum?
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Old 05-24-2020, 11:38 PM   #6
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I mis-understood your post, it sounded like you had the MACH 8 that has two fans. Sorry for the confusion.
Yeah I think I have a roughneck. Mine doesn’t do heat.
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Old 05-24-2020, 11:45 PM   #7
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On top of the compressor you should have 120v between the black wire and the white thats hooked to compressor. If not check black input side of the overload (the round part with two black wires) to the white to see if voltage is there. If it is then the overload is bad. If not you have power supply problem.
Does the compressor ever hum?
Any combo you do on the compressor it’s all 0.005v no matter which way you’re touching wires to a ground with a meter. It’s all 0.47v no matter which way you’re touching wires to themselves with a meter. So it’s not getting power or it’s dead itself. Now I checked these power levels with the A/C turned on and trying to cool to like 68 and the fan was on. It’s kinda loud with the fan running but I hear nothing and don’t feel a buzz or anything. I need to find out how the unit gets it’s power. Maybe another capacitor inside somewhere? That makes me think it’s not the compressor as one of those wires should be reading 120v or 230v.
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Old 05-25-2020, 05:50 AM   #8
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I need to find out how the unit gets it’s power. Maybe another capacitor inside somewhere? That makes me think it’s not the compressor as one of those wires should be reading 120v or 230v.
The control box is accessible from inside after you remove the ceiling grill. No capacitors inside.
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Old 05-25-2020, 05:56 AM   #9
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Looking at the wiring diagram check to see if the purple wire going to the start relay or the positive temp resistor is showing any power. Could have a bad connection at one of those points or in the plug connection on the main harness plug.
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Old 05-25-2020, 08:35 AM   #10
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The control box is accessible from inside after you remove the ceiling grill. No capacitors inside.
I donít have inside access. The eagle has duct work like a home.
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Old 05-25-2020, 08:37 AM   #11
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Looking at the wiring diagram check to see if the purple wire going to the start relay or the positive temp resistor is showing any power. Could have a bad connection at one of those points or in the plug connection on the main harness plug.
Iím not sure where that is. The other side of the unit is sealed. I have to remove tape, cut through silicone and remove metal plates and housings.
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Old 05-25-2020, 08:44 AM   #12
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I donít have inside access. The eagle has duct work like a home.
Looks like you can remove the cover on the evaporator and access it then.
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Old 05-25-2020, 11:45 AM   #13
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Looks like you can remove the cover on the evaporator and access it then.
Right. Just have to cut the silicone and tape all around.
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Old 05-25-2020, 02:19 PM   #14
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More issues with the Jayco Eagle 330RSTS

Iíd swap thermostats and see if that works. Easy troubleshoot and wonít cost anything. I had a similar issue with my unit in my HT, and a new thermostat solved.
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Old 05-25-2020, 06:39 PM   #15
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Got it!!

The thin thin thin white wire making the loop on the left side is the ice up sensor jammed into the fins of the condenser. It was half way severed. Dumb ass design. All that exposed sheet metal with sharp edges and as the air blows down into the roof those wires are just blowing around. Now the thick yellow home 12/3 wire isnít going to move or get blown around but this paper thin wire sure was!
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Old 05-25-2020, 06:42 PM   #16
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Got it!!
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