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Old 06-04-2018, 05:28 PM   #1
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MORryde CRE/3000 Jacking

Let me start by saying I have spent a lot of time searching the internet for the "correct" jacking location on a tandem axle travel trailer and have learned a lot of very good information. I recently purchased a 2014 Jayco Eagle 314bhds and decided I would replace the original tires so I had Carlisle Radial Trail HD tires installed at my local Discount Tire store last Friday. I am a little concerned about how they jacked the trailer up to install the tires as they used a standard floor jack directly under my MORryde CRE/3000 and now they don't seem to be "straight" anymore. I have attached a picture to show how the suspension system now sits with the trailer parked back at my house. Should I be concerned that they used the "suspension" as the jacking point for the trailer? Should I jack the trailer back up using the frame and attempt to move the suspension so it sits "straight" again?

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Old 06-05-2018, 10:10 AM   #2
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It is probably o.k. as long as they didn't damage the rubber insert. My equalizer sometimes sits straight and at other times cocked off to the side. It depends on the surface I'm parked on. In any event, I dont think jacking up the rv and trying to straighten it will make any difference.
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Old 06-05-2018, 11:15 AM   #3
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I agree that it is likely ok as long as the rubber inside isn't damaged. It will likely straighten out with the next tow.
That said, they should have jacked under each asle spring mount. 2 floor jacks raising each at the same time. Or, like Discount Tire did mine, 4 floor jacks, one under each spring mount all raised at the same time.
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Old 06-05-2018, 11:23 AM   #4
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Thank you to everyone that has replied, I had actually contacted MORryde yesterday and they had one of their engineers look at my picture today and he stated that from the angle of the picture everything looks good. He also mentioned that I should check that the equalizer is not tipped sideways, either inward or outward. I am probably just worrying too much.

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Old 06-05-2018, 11:29 AM   #5
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Next time tell them to jack from the front or rear spring hanger bracket or both.

It's sad that a tire shop would not know better.
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Old 06-05-2018, 11:33 AM   #6
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I was very surprised to see how they had jacked the trailer up. I would not have even known but I ended up walking outside when the salesman informed me that I had several damaged lug nuts and recommended replacing them so I went outside to see the lug nuts. I guess I should have told them where I wanted them to jack up the trailer, but I made the mistake of assuming that a tire shop should know where to properly jack a trailer.
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Old 06-05-2018, 11:40 AM   #7
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I do have to admit this is on reason I like the torsion style axles. Just drive up on a couple of 2x4's and the tire without the wood under it is off the ground. Granted for your scenario it wouldn't have worked but when out traveling it is way easier than using a jack.

I would imagine in your case though that after a couple of drive cycles everything will come back in line and you'll never know it happened.
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Old 06-05-2018, 11:44 AM   #8
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If I ever have to change one on the road, I drive the good tire up on 2 x 10 blocks after breaking the flat tires lug nuts. Then use a small hydraulic jack under the axle bracket to lift the bad tire enough to change it.

That's in case road service is out of range.
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Old 06-05-2018, 12:12 PM   #9
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I thought you jacked the trailer up by the frame only.?????
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Old 06-05-2018, 08:40 PM   #10
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I thought you jacked the trailer up by the frame only.?????
Great discussion starting here. I'm not sure if its been covered on this site but on others it has been worked over hard with no decisive answers that I have found.
Where to jack...???
Some say frame only but Lippard says no no. Don't jack under our frame it will bend.
Some say under spring hanger but Lippard says no no, don't jack under our axel tubes as they will crush.
Best I have seen and used are a cradle (half pipe) to adapt to the jack to spread the weight over more of the axel (about 12" seems ok) or the plastic molded ramps to drive the good tire onto hence bringing the damaged one off the ground. (blocks work in most cases also)
What say thou??
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Old 06-06-2018, 10:36 AM   #11
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Our previous 5th wheel trailer had a Lippert I-beam frame. The bottom of the I-beam deformed slightly when we attempted to jack it up with a floor jack one time. I would imagine lighter trailers that use a C-sectioned frame would fare even worse.

We've found a 8-12 ton bottle jack positioned underneath the axle tube, as close as possible to the brake drum as possible works well. We also use a semi-circle shaped metal cradle (similar to what Watsons suggested) to distribute the weight, plus a jack-stand next to the bottle jack for safety. Done this many, many times on our last 3 trailers (for flat tires, tire rotations, bearing repacks, etc.) with no issues.

Keep in mind a flat trailer tire will drop the axle tube closer to the pavement when it's flat. If you use a bottle jack make sure to choose one that will fit underneath the axle tube when the tire is flat. HF sells a few low profile models.

FWIW, I've witnessed a few emergency road service crews change trailer tires. They have no standardized method. For better or worse, I've seen them jack underneath the frame, axle tube, and even underneath the suspension hangers.
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Old 06-06-2018, 11:08 AM   #12
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On are fiver we auto level first, then put in manual and lift the wheels right off the ground. According to Lippert each jack has a 5K rating.That's another reason we love auto level! Thanks
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Old 06-06-2018, 01:55 PM   #13
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When I jack mine up for service, I lift at the frame and put jack stands fore and aft.
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:03 PM   #14
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I have many 2x4x16 cribbing pieces just for this need. Like Trout, I lift the frame but always put a 2x4 ON TOP of my jack (a 20T bottle jack) to spread the load out a bit. I’ve not had any bending of the frame and can get all 4 tires off the ground for service, front supported by the landing gear and cribbing towers with jack stands on top just behind the axles with the bottle jack doing the lifting.
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Old 06-10-2018, 04:37 PM   #15
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I have many 2x4x16 cribbing pieces just for this need. Like Trout, I lift the frame but always put a 2x4 ON TOP of my jack (a 20T bottle jack) to spread the load out a bit. I’ve not had any bending of the frame and can get all 4 tires off the ground for service, front supported by the landing gear and cribbing towers with jack stands on top just behind the axles with the bottle jack doing the lifting.
We tried using 2x4's on top of a bottle jack on a heavy 5th wheel trailer before. The 2x4's immediately split. The bottle jacks shifted position and almost slipped off the frame. It may work with some trailer applications, but IMO it's not a safe, universal solution for everyone.

I believe the better, safer solution is to securely weld a tube underneath a cradle. The top of the bottle jack is placed underneath the cradle, inside the tube so it can't slip. The cradle itself can be a flat-bottomed U shape for placement underneath a frame rail, or semi-circle in shape for placement underneath an axle tube. The latter option has worked safely for us on our last 3 trailers.
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Old 06-10-2018, 04:53 PM   #16
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We tried using 2x4's on top of a bottle jack on a heavy 5th wheel trailer before. The 2x4's immediately split. The bottle jacks shifted position and almost slipped off the frame. It may work with some trailer applications, but IMO it's not a safe, universal solution for everyone.

I believe the better, safer solution is to securely weld a tube underneath a cradle. The top of the bottle jack is placed underneath the cradle, inside the tube so it can't slip. The cradle itself can be a flat-bottomed U shape for placement underneath a frame rail, or semi-circle in shape for placement underneath an axle tube. The latter option has worked safely for us on our last 3 trailers.
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Old 06-10-2018, 05:16 PM   #17
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Rv Doctor says main frame rail. The RV Doctor: Safely Jacking Up a Travel Trailer Our camper has an I-beam frame and I've never had an issue while jacking as close to the wheel as possible. Lots of differing opinions out there on the net though.
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Old 06-15-2018, 08:26 AM   #18
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I have the plastic molded ramp that thankfully I have only had to use once in the 10 years that I have had it. It works awesome . Probably the safest way to change a tire. My 2 cents Larry ps got it at TS Just saw " trailer aide " at wally world for $23.+
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Old 06-15-2018, 02:54 PM   #19
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Well, I've always used any piece of wood I had on hand to distribute the force. I would like to see one of these steel cradles if someone can please post some pics. Thanks.
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Old 06-15-2018, 04:20 PM   #20
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I would like to see one of these steel cradles if someone can please post some pics. Thanks.

Here's pics of one I made:
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