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Old 06-04-2018, 06:28 PM   #1
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MORryde CRE/3000 Jacking

Let me start by saying I have spent a lot of time searching the internet for the "correct" jacking location on a tandem axle travel trailer and have learned a lot of very good information. I recently purchased a 2014 Jayco Eagle 314bhds and decided I would replace the original tires so I had Carlisle Radial Trail HD tires installed at my local Discount Tire store last Friday. I am a little concerned about how they jacked the trailer up to install the tires as they used a standard floor jack directly under my MORryde CRE/3000 and now they don't seem to be "straight" anymore. I have attached a picture to show how the suspension system now sits with the trailer parked back at my house. Should I be concerned that they used the "suspension" as the jacking point for the trailer? Should I jack the trailer back up using the frame and attempt to move the suspension so it sits "straight" again?

Thank you,
Zubie
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Old 06-05-2018, 11:10 AM   #2
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It is probably o.k. as long as they didn't damage the rubber insert. My equalizer sometimes sits straight and at other times cocked off to the side. It depends on the surface I'm parked on. In any event, I dont think jacking up the rv and trying to straighten it will make any difference.
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Old 06-05-2018, 12:15 PM   #3
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I agree that it is likely ok as long as the rubber inside isn't damaged. It will likely straighten out with the next tow.
That said, they should have jacked under each asle spring mount. 2 floor jacks raising each at the same time. Or, like Discount Tire did mine, 4 floor jacks, one under each spring mount all raised at the same time.
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Old 06-05-2018, 12:23 PM   #4
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Thank you to everyone that has replied, I had actually contacted MORryde yesterday and they had one of their engineers look at my picture today and he stated that from the angle of the picture everything looks good. He also mentioned that I should check that the equalizer is not tipped sideways, either inward or outward. I am probably just worrying too much.

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Old 06-05-2018, 12:29 PM   #5
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Next time tell them to jack from the front or rear spring hanger bracket or both.

It's sad that a tire shop would not know better.
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Old 06-05-2018, 12:33 PM   #6
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I was very surprised to see how they had jacked the trailer up. I would not have even known but I ended up walking outside when the salesman informed me that I had several damaged lug nuts and recommended replacing them so I went outside to see the lug nuts. I guess I should have told them where I wanted them to jack up the trailer, but I made the mistake of assuming that a tire shop should know where to properly jack a trailer.
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Old 06-05-2018, 12:40 PM   #7
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I do have to admit this is on reason I like the torsion style axles. Just drive up on a couple of 2x4's and the tire without the wood under it is off the ground. Granted for your scenario it wouldn't have worked but when out traveling it is way easier than using a jack.

I would imagine in your case though that after a couple of drive cycles everything will come back in line and you'll never know it happened.
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Old 06-05-2018, 12:44 PM   #8
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If I ever have to change one on the road, I drive the good tire up on 2 x 10 blocks after breaking the flat tires lug nuts. Then use a small hydraulic jack under the axle bracket to lift the bad tire enough to change it.

That's in case road service is out of range.
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Old 06-05-2018, 01:12 PM   #9
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I thought you jacked the trailer up by the frame only.?????
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Old 06-05-2018, 09:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCNashville View Post
I thought you jacked the trailer up by the frame only.?????
Great discussion starting here. I'm not sure if its been covered on this site but on others it has been worked over hard with no decisive answers that I have found.
Where to jack...???
Some say frame only but Lippard says no no. Don't jack under our frame it will bend.
Some say under spring hanger but Lippard says no no, don't jack under our axel tubes as they will crush.
Best I have seen and used are a cradle (half pipe) to adapt to the jack to spread the weight over more of the axel (about 12" seems ok) or the plastic molded ramps to drive the good tire onto hence bringing the damaged one off the ground. (blocks work in most cases also)
What say thou??
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