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Old 11-05-2010, 06:12 PM   #11
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I am heading out to the farm in the morning to check out if I have any more mice. I bought some more Bounce plus I bought some bleach to put around my tires(not on) and around my landing gear. I was also reading about another product called "Cab Fresh" and was wondering if anyone had heard of this and where to obtain it other than on-line?
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Old 11-05-2010, 06:13 PM   #12
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Just USE the RV .... head S for the winter... we still have a few places left here at Slab City... lots of Alberta people out my east window.
Where is Slab City?
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Old 11-05-2010, 10:39 PM   #13
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For years and years, we used moth balls, bouncy sheets, steel wool and hand spray foam cans in open under belly holes. Even used posion in small cans (under its chassis) - so only small critters would eat the stuff. They would eat the stuff instead of hunting for food inside our TT. Still, those critters got in "every year". Once they find an opening, its under belly fiber glass insulatuon was drilled into like soft swiss cheese. They were so bad under our Jayco, they actually chewed across thick 10 guage electric brake wiring and got into its infloor heating vents. If they wanted inside or past something, they found a way.

For pictures, surf:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0593.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0594.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0601.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0603.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0592.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0599.jpg

The only method to eliminate "critters" from entering the under belly of our 2006 Jayco 29FBS trailer was to manually remove its under belly materials, remove its pink fiberglass sheets (that hold water anyway) and Spray Foam it all. re: 2 lbs Closed Cell approx 3.5-4.0" thick by a certified Spray Foam company. Thus, sealing all critter entry holes. And, for tigtening up its floor.

For pictures, surf:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0700.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0696.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0695.jpg

So far, NO critters since our under belly spray foam upgrade. To me, all trailers must has spray foam within their walls, within their roof and under their belly. And for service line entry points, their over sized access holes are both steel mesh and spray foam protected as well.

Good luck in your "critter" protection upgrade ideas. Mass spray foam (2 lbs - Closed Cell) works great under our Jayco - at our seasonal camp site.

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Old 11-06-2010, 09:12 AM   #14
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Spike99, that looks like the answer for sure. What did it cost? Did you reinstall that membrane on the underbelly after the spray or did you leave it open?
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Old 11-06-2010, 09:36 AM   #15
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The cost of Spray Foam is different within each region. For me, I took 10 ft (trailer width) and 24 ft (trailer length) with 3.5-4.0" thick measurements and called the many Spray Foam companies within my area. Some didn't want to touch a small 240 sq ft job. Others wanted me to bring my TT into their large warehouse size bays. re: Where they Spray Foam the insides of refrigerated tractor trailers. Since we don't tow our seasonal site TT, those companies we crossed off my list. Of the 6 companies in my area, I was now down to 2 different companies. One guy wanted to charge me travel + application. The other guy was doing a "drive by" our seasonal camp site and decided not to charge me travel - since he was driving by anyway. Do call around because each company has different application estimates. Some of the estimates I got was actually "double" - and I had to take my own TT to them. Man, they must make huge profits on others - who don't do in-depth cost estimate research.

For my seasonal site Trailer's under belly Spray Foam upgrade, it took 4 weekends to complete. The first 2 weekend was for me to manually remove our TT's under belly materials, pull away the pink fibre glass insulation and "tape off / wrap off" sensitive under belly areas. For example, slide rails, slide motor, re-do its under belly wiring into 90 degree plastic loom protected runs, tape around its holding tank to floor area (to stop foam from getting between tanks and under floor gap area), etc. etc. I also had to mask off areas to stop over spray. The 3rd weekend was for Spraying. He came in at 4:30 PM and completed by 7:30 AM. After spraying, they recommend clearing the area for 24 hours. For the specialized guy, I made the environment very comfortable. Thus, he spent more quality time - while laying on his back - to spray upwards. If wondering, I used to mask off vehicles before they got painted. Master painter guy comes in, does his specialization, then leaves. I used the same quality of pre-spray preparation skills for the Spray Foam guy as well. The 4th weekend was used for "trimming and clean up". For example, removing over spray plastic areas, removing plastic off motors, remove plastic off tank valves, rack the ground, etc. etc.

In thinking back and knowing the positive results, I'd do it again. IMO, all trailers should have 2 lbs Closed Cell spray foam in their walls, inner roof cavity and under belly areas. And all under belly service lines should be put into plastic loom &/or protective PVC piping as well. Thus, reducing critter entry and the damage they do create - once they get under the under belly fabric layer.

For more pictures, see the my PM (Private Message).

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Old 11-06-2010, 09:59 AM   #16
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Spike99, that looks like the answer for sure. What did it cost? Did you reinstall that membrane on the underbelly after the spray or did you leave it open?
If wondering, I left the under belly of our TT open. From a factory design perspective, the black fabric layer is a floor for critters. Once they get on top of that layer, they can walk around the entire under belly area (all 240 sq ft). And, can "drill upwards" into its under belly heat floor vents and over sized holes (for service lines). With no fabric layer, no floor for them to walk on / stand on. They may stand on some of the steel cross frame or corner areas and try to "dig" upgrades. With open belly area, I simply crawl under my TT every 6 months and perform a visual inspection. If I see digging, I pack that area with steel screen and re-foam that area with hand held can. Many critters don't like chewing throw steel. Once they hit steel, they often look for different (easier) shelter to invade. Since our TT is for seasonal site and we never pull our TT in the rain (personal safety thing), our TT doesn't need that under belly fabric layer.

Hope this helps in your research as well...

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Old 11-06-2010, 10:54 AM   #17
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If wondering, I left the under belly of our TT open. From a factory design perspective, the black fabric layer is a floor for critters. Once they get on top of that layer, they can walk around the entire under belly area (all 240 sq ft). And, can "drill upwards" into its under belly heat floor vents and over sized holes (for service lines). With no fabric layer, no floor for them to walk on / stand on. They may stand on some of the steel cross frame or corner areas and try to "dig" upgrades. With open belly area, I simply crawl under my TT every 6 months and perform a visual inspection. If I see digging, I pack that area with steel screen and re-foam that area with hand held can. Many critters don't like chewing throw steel. Once they hit steel, they often look for different (easier) shelter to invade. Since our TT is for seasonal site and we never pull our TT in the rain (personal safety thing), our TT doesn't need that under belly fabric layer.

Hope this helps in your research as well...

.
Spike99, thanks for your great post and pictures. I think this is the way to go but it looks like a lot of work that I never thought of. I still wonder how the foam will stand up while traveling. I hate to do this and then have to put that membrane back on so that critters have a chance to use it as place to ride. I must check out the place that sprayed my truck box and see if they do this type of insulation. They are close by and easy for me to bring my unit to them.
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Old 11-06-2010, 11:13 AM   #18
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Seems to be lots of Spray Foam companies within Calgary area. For a map and lots of drill down details, surf:

http://www.google.ca/#hl=en&source=h...2b21d0b019ad35

Note: Only use 2 lb. Closed Cell for external Spray Foam areas. Open Cell dissolves with water exposure and 1 lb. foam shrinks too much. 2 lbs CC is best for external / high moisture applications. Also, Spray Foam will NOT stick to anything shiny. If water beads off the surface (like shinny tin - used in TT under floor heat ducts), Spray Foam won't stick to it. For these areas, simply screw steel screen (like in screen window material) to it. Thus, allowing "grip" for Spray foam. And use Gorilla tape - NOT shiny box tape for protecting gaps (like between tanks and under floor gap area). Only use shiny box tape and shiny plastic sheets on external over spray areas. Areas where over spray will be removed afterwards.

Also... Tiger company ( http://www.tigerfoam.ca/ ) makes a DIY Spray on kit. After buying the kit and travel costs (for pickup + estimated 20% wastage), I found is was only "slightly" LESS expensive then hiring a professional contractor - with their own stuff. IMO, the spray foam used by professional contractors is "much - much" better (compared to retail DIY kits - like Tiger).

Hope this helps as well...

.
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Old 11-06-2010, 11:35 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Spike99 View Post
Seems to be lots of Spray Foam companies within Calgary area. For a map and lots of drill down details, surf:

http://www.google.ca/#hl=en&source=h...2b21d0b019ad35

Note: Only use 2 lb. Closed Cell for external Spray Foam areas. Open Cell dissolves with water exposure and 1 lb. foam shrinks too much. 2 lbs CC is best for external / high moisture applications. Also, Spray Foam will NOT stick to anything shiny. If water beads off the surface (like shinny tin - used in TT under floor heat ducts), Spray Foam won't stick to it. For these areas, simply screw steel screen (like in screen window material) to it. Thus, allowing "grip" for Spray foam. And use Gorilla tape - NOT shiny box tape for protecting gaps (like between tanks and under floor gap area). Only use shiny box tape and shiny plastic sheets on external over spray areas. Areas where over spray will be removed afterwards.

Also... Tiger company ( http://www.tigerfoam.ca/ ) makes a DIY Spray on kit. After buying the kit and travel costs (for pickup + estimated 20% wastage), I found is was only "slightly" LESS expensive then hiring a professional contractor - with their own stuff. IMO, the spray foam used by professional contractors is "much - much" better (compared to retail DIY kits - like Tiger).

Hope this helps as well...

.
Thank you.
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Old 11-07-2010, 11:08 AM   #20
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Where is Slab City?
In SE California in the Imperial Valley. about 90 miles east of Palm Springs, and about 90 mi NE of San Diego. The nearest town is Niland Ca. I am here and set up for the winter....
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