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Old 05-12-2015, 07:24 PM   #11
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The pipe clamps make for easy tightening, although I'm guessing I'll need to whack the 4x4 with a hammer to loosen them when I want to take them off.
The pipe clamps are a superior design, but I didn't have any when I made mine. When the chocks are tight, loosening them is easy, but because they're "wedged" in between the tires, they won't fall out. I just stomp on the bottom one and they come out.

On another forum, there was some concern that by "forcing" the chocks between the wheels may put undue strain on the axles and springs, but when you consider that it's really not that much compared to the strain those same components experience at highway speed over a bumpy road, which I would imagine is exponentially more.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:35 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by North of 49 View Post
I did consider a wingnut, or welding "handles" on to the top nut, but I have a ratcheting wrench that works quite well.
McMaster has knobs with threaded holes I nearly ordered this AM:

McMaster-Carr

If you go with 3/8" all-thread there are knobs on Amazon that are pretty cheap.

I can't rely on me remembering tools.

What is the advantage to this kind of chock?

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Old 05-12-2015, 08:59 PM   #13
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@Bryan Welcome to the forum.

Chocks like these do a couple of things: They reduce some of the trailer movement and work to lock the wheels when using wood blocks to level the trailer.

There are also similar chocks made commercially; check Camping World etc.

I haven't tried them myself, but if you read more posts you'll find lots of folks really like them.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:15 PM   #14
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@Bryan Welcome to the forum.

Chocks like these do a couple of things: They reduce some of the trailer movement and work to lock the wheels when using wood blocks to level the trailer.
Thanks - I may have to try these out if I have materials around.

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Old 05-12-2015, 10:31 PM   #15
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The chocks limit the amount of back and forward movement of the wheels and flexing of the suspension, and when combined with the snugged-up stabilizers, greatly reduce the amount of wiggle in the trailer as a whole. Done correctly, you'd almost think the trailer is a permanent structure. Some people even use them alone instead of in combination with standard wheel chocks. It might be okay on a flat surface, but my driveway -- where the picture was taken in my first post -- has quite a slope to it. My neighbors across the street are great people, but I don't think they would appreciate having my trailer roll down my driveway, across the street and into their yard. I know I wouldn't. So I go to extraordinary efforts to secure my trailer.
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Old 05-12-2015, 11:52 PM   #16
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I will probably build a set of these in the near future. I thought I was all set with the set of 'yellow' chocks I've had for years. WRONG!

My previous RV was a class-B. I could use wood blocks under the low side tires and put the transmission in Park.... done. It wouldn't roll and NO chocks of any kind were needed.

With my new trailer (my first by the way), I pulled it up on wood blocks under the low side tires, put chocks at the front and rear of both sides, and started unhitching.

The cheap plastic chocks slid on the low-side boards! I didn't panic in front of the DW, but mentally I freaked out!! The chocks slid an inch or so, but that was enough to teach me the value of really good chocks and/or chocks between the tires. In a different situation, the outcome could have been very bad.

Since I don't have really good chocks, making the DIY chocks that go between the tires seems like the best route for me. It will be a few weeks before we go out again, building a pair of these chocks is now on my to-do list.
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Old 05-13-2015, 05:43 AM   #17
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would be nice to use a "cam arm" type deal. With a nut so you could get it snug then pull down the arm to crank it tight. Of course you would have to source the cam arms. I had some from old VW van roof carriers.
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Old 05-13-2015, 06:23 AM   #18
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I built the same set up for mine last year. a little way to make things easier, I loaded the bottom block with wood glue to hold the all thread in place. So no twisting when tightening. they work great
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