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Old 03-25-2015, 08:25 AM   #11
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Marion
Posts: 30
Originally Posted by SouthCo View Post
Get the diesel and be done... It's so worth it.
Believe you me, I'd love to - but that $9K hit buys alot of gas and alot of campground stays - among other things.

My new TT has a dry weight of 6160#, and a GVWR of 8200#. I'm figuring somewhere around 7200-7500# loaded. I just don't know if I can bring myself to upgrade to the Duramax with this load in mind. Having had several boats, I'm well aware of two-footitis - but we went with the 28BHKS after initially looking at 23's and 25's, so I'm hoping to keep the trailer for a while. I'm still leaning toward a gasser, but if the right used 2014 comes along in an oil burner, I might be swayed. We'll see.

Thanks again for all the input!

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Old 03-25-2015, 04:14 PM   #12
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Scotia NY
Posts: 41
I had gas trucks my whole life, I bought a 2011 2500 with a duramax and will never buy a gas truck again! I never thought it would make much of a difference but OMG! I love it! Nothing like climbing a hill and going down one with the exhaust break on, I have converted 2 other guys from 6.0s to a duramaxs and they couldn't be happier, I agree its more money but dam it so much better lol Just my 2 cents

2013 White Hawk 27dsrl
2011 silverado 2500HD 6.6 Duramax diesel
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:07 PM   #13
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: oneonta ny
Posts: 533
Theres more to the diesel drive train package than just the extra torque IMO. The tranny and diff. are higher quality and more durable/long lived. My duramax is linked to an allison trans. and eton locking diff.
both well know names. You can expect a much longer service life from your initial investment that may justify it if you keep the truck.....and if not it will certainly help resale.
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:22 PM   #14
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Hot Sulphur Springs
Posts: 108
I read, I believe in Diesel Power Magazine, that right around 110,000 miles you would have broke even with buying the diesel motor. I believe they included all maintenance costs too. If you plan on keeping the truck past that mark, go for the diesel. I'll see if I can find that article.

I looked and couldn't find the article, sorry...
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Old 03-25-2015, 08:09 PM   #15
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Greater Grand Rapids
Posts: 1,119
My 2011 F-150 EcoBoost w/Max Tow Pkg. has the built-in sway control. With that in mind when I bought my trail, I made a deal with the salesman for just a heavy-duty hitch insert. Then I got to thinking, "You're pulling a $XX,XXX trailer with a $XX,XXX truck. Do you really want to cheap out on the only thing connecting the two together?" I decided there was more going on back there than just sway. There was weight distribution, in addition to that 30' wind magnet of a box I was going to be towing. That's when I called him back and had him upgrade me to the proper WD hitch with sway control - the one he'd install on his own vehicle. He set me up with a Husky w/single sway bar. I'm glad he did! In fact, even with the integrated sway control and the single friction sway bar, I was still getting quite a bit of sway in windy conditions. At the recommendation of JOF's own "Rustic Eagle", I added a second (left side) sway control. It was like a night and day difference! Now I'm perfectly relaxed and comfortable towing even in 25-30 mph side gusts. (I'll admit that I don't care much for 30+ mph winds, though.)

I'd highly recommend getting a good weight distributing hitch with sway control . . . even with the truck's built-in sway control. You won't regret it!

2013 Eagle 266RKS
2011 Ford F-150 w/3.5L Ecoboost & H.D. Tow Package
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