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Old 08-03-2014, 08:30 PM   #1
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oops...lose the jack block?

Since we have owned the TT, I've always used a 6" tall retaining wall block (the solid concrete, stackable kind) under the tounge jack for a firm footing and to get a little more lift out of the jack when I set up or take off the WDH bars.

This weekend, we camped and I used the tounge block at a site with a little downhill and side slope. We chocked the right side and used lynx levelers (3 high on the left) and all was fine until we started to break camp this morning. The DW grabbed the drill and began to lift the stabalizer jacks starting with the front. She moved to the rear of the TT and safely raised the right stabalizer jack but when she started to raise the left rear jack, the TT rolled back off the Lynx levelers and the tounge block. The chock blocks acted like a pivot point and the TT didn't roll far but it was enought to shake us up for a few seconds.

Is the use of a block under the tounge a bad idea or was this just dumb luck? The DW pointed out the TT's tanks were empty when we parked and the grey and black tanks were nearly full and may have contributed to the downhill weight shift. If there a way to chock a raised wheel(s) when the TT is on leveling blocks or something I could have done different?
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Old 08-03-2014, 08:42 PM   #2
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I'm certainly happy no damage was done, I can imagine it was very startling.

I don't think the block under the tongue jack was the issue, more about dumb luck.

But have you heard the saying "luck is when preparation meets opportunity" or something like that. I imagine that is what happened hear, if you would have had wheel chocks on both sides this might have been prevented. I too use links so I get that it's hard to use standard chocks on the side with leveled, but I usually can find a way and that is often building the platform big enough to use them. Lynx makes some chocks specifically for use with the levelers, I haven't bought them yet but plan too. I also use X-Chocks between the tires...these may have helped hold the trailer. In future I would keep the tongue jack block, but I would be sure to chock both sides.
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Old 08-03-2014, 08:52 PM   #3
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I just witnessed a situation similar to this a month ago. In this case the grandson installed the chocks the wrong way for the ground conditions. The use of a solid concrete block is OK. Never use a hollow block.

As for the stack of Legos. If you can make a ramp of them, then add an extra one that you do not roll up on to. And use it as a chock. One of the Lego makers have an optional chock. I have used a stack of fire wood as a chock before too.
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Old 08-03-2014, 08:54 PM   #4
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Smile

I use Lynx levelers with the chock fixture - works very well.
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:34 PM   #5
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When one side is higher to level trailer i use my ratcheting wheel lock that goes between the tires and applies pressure works great no movement
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Old 08-04-2014, 02:22 AM   #6
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When one side is higher to level trailer i use my ratcheting wheel lock that goes between the tires and applies pressure works great no movement
x2, only I always use them. First thing on. Last thing off.
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Old 08-04-2014, 06:13 AM   #7
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It really has nothing to do with the cement under the tongue jack. It has to do with the chock blocks. They should be on both sides of every tire on the trailer..
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Old 08-04-2014, 07:55 AM   #8
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I have a set of x-chocks but took them off before we started to raise the leveling jacks. I think there was a statement from Bal that said they are not intended to be used as a wheel chock to prevent the trailer from rolling. That statement could have been more of a liability disclaimer but will an x-chock really stop a 5k TT from rolling?
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:22 AM   #9
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I have a set of x-chocks but took them off before we started to raise the leveling jacks. I think there was a statement from Bal that said they are not intended to be used as a wheel chock to prevent the trailer from rolling. That statement could have been more of a liability disclaimer but will an x-chock really stop a 5k TT from rolling?
X2. I do the same for the same reason. X-chock goes on after leveling and comes off before raising the tongue to hitch.

I suspect the x-chock could damage the tires when the trailer pivots when hitching and unhitching. I am extremely cautious about my tires.
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:22 AM   #10
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I have a set of x-chocks but took them off before we started to raise the leveling jacks. I think there was a statement from Bal that said they are not intended to be used as a wheel chock to prevent the trailer from rolling. That statement could have been more of a liability disclaimer but will an x-chock really stop a 5k TT from rolling?
If the trailer wants to roll, those X-Chocks will pop right off from what I've heard. Mine are LAST on, FIRST off. I would also try to chock both sides of the trailer at least (if not every wheel), but I don't know how I'd do it. Typically, we only need one lynx leveler block to level our trailer, and I don't yet know a good way to chock that side in that situation. I'm looking really closely at adding one of their chocks that fits their system, but just haven't pulled the trigger yet... After your story, it might just move right up to the top of the wish list!
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:55 AM   #11
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I often don't have to level BOTH tires on one side of the trailer, thereby leaving one on the ground. I use those yellow plastic wheel chocks - two per side.

I have also had a trailer pivot before due to one side not being chocked. makes for a bit of excitement.
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:58 AM   #12
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I, too, use the X-Chocks. Both sides. Strange how different people have different experiences with the same issue. I generally check things for myself in "this is what I heard" cases.

My way is the X-Chocks go on FIRST and come off LAST. The trick is they must be placed perfectly. Centered and vertical. Plus you must be reasonable level. Most campsites are reasonably level. Don't expect them to hold on a 30 degree slope. I know what the manufacturer states but their warning is lawyer driven.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:15 AM   #13
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I, too, use the X-Chocks. Both sides. Strange how different people have different experiences with the same issue. I generally check things for myself in "this is what I heard" cases.

My way is the X-Chocks go on FIRST and come off LAST. The trick is they must be placed perfectly. Centered and vertical. Plus you must be reasonable level. Most campsites are reasonably level. Don't expect them to hold on a 30 degree slope. I know what the manufacturer states but their warning is lawyer driven.
I also have the Bal X-Chock's and they are first on last off. I once forgot to remove one of them on my 32BHDS and tried to pull out of my site. when I looked in the side mirror both tires on that side where just sliding in the gravel site. Point is they hold very well.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:22 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Kellys View Post
When one side is higher to level trailer i use my ratcheting wheel lock that goes between the tires and applies pressure works great no movement
x3

Been there, done that. Bent the tongue jack 250 miles away from home in the U.P. I always have a floor jack along, so I was still able to hook up, but at the time, I think every mother in the cg had to cover their kids ears.... Fortunitly, we passed one large RV store in Ishpeming Mi on our way to Straights SP for the night, and bought a new one late Saturday afternoon. Man talk about a rough day... I now never...ever...ever... remove the chocks or wheel x chock until the camper is attached to the TV, espicially if I am using my linx levelers on one side or the other. I always put the x chock on what ever side has blocks, or if none are being used, its on the slide side..
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:23 AM   #15
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I find that a good pair of rubber chocks will grip just fine on the Lego blocks allowing me to chock both sides, even on an unlevel site.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:34 AM   #16
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Re; solid concrete block?
Would the use of a short length of 8x8 or similiar sized timber be easier to work with? When not in use does the concrete block ride in the TV bed or is it carried in the storage bay of the TT? Does it slide around in its stored location? Even solid concrete blocks are quite brittle when dropped or when something is dropped on them. Also the TT jack leg seems to "settle" into a wood block better while it may "slide" off a concrete block? We all seem to do what works best for us but concrete?
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Old 08-04-2014, 11:27 AM   #17
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Re; solid concrete block?
Would the use of a short length of 8x8 or similiar sized timber be easier to work with? When not in use does the concrete block ride in the TV bed or is it carried in the storage bay of the TT? Does it slide around in its stored location? Even solid concrete blocks are quite brittle when dropped or when something is dropped on them. Also the TT jack leg seems to "settle" into a wood block better while it may "slide" off a concrete block? We all seem to do what works best for us but concrete?
The block travels in the back of my TV. I didn’t slide around in my old truck with a Line-X bed nor does it slide in my newer truck with a Bedrug.
With the inertia generated when the TT rolled off the leveler blocks, I don’t think the jack would have stayed on any block with a flat surface. I may try a wood block and route out a shallow depression for the jack footing…still that set up may slide where the block makes contacts the ground (if this ever happens again) but the jack may not fall off the block.
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Old 08-04-2014, 01:55 PM   #18
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With the BAL chocks the camper is not gonna go anywhere because they apply pressure in reverse directions on both tires. If there is a huge incline then I use a piece of RailRoad tie to chock the wheels as well. Most cases the trailer will not go anywhere with the BAL x chocks.
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Old 08-04-2014, 02:14 PM   #19
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I, too, use the X-Chocks. Both sides. Strange how different people have different experiences with the same issue. I generally check things for myself in "this is what I heard" cases.

My way is the X-Chocks go on FIRST and come off LAST. The trick is they must be placed perfectly. Centered and vertical. Plus you must be reasonable level. Most campsites are reasonably level. Don't expect them to hold on a 30 degree slope. I know what the manufacturer states but their warning is lawyer driven.
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I also have the Bal X-Chock's and they are first on last off. I once forgot to remove one of them on my 32BHDS and tried to pull out of my site. when I looked in the side mirror both tires on that side where just sliding in the gravel site. Point is they hold very well.
This makes me feel better about using mine. I had read the instructions which (as mentioned) say not to use them to chock the trailer's entire weight, and had read some accounts of them coming off or the possibility of ruining tires, and whatnot (stories; they can't put it on the internet if it's not true, right? ). Sometimes you just never know with these things. I don't know if I'm going to change my order of operations, but it's definitely food for thought... I'd have to change my shorts if my trailer did something like that!
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:10 PM   #20
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If I can only chock one side because of leveling blocks I chock that one side with one behind rear tire and one chock in front of front tire that way it cant roll ether direction and it does work.
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