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Old 09-03-2011, 02:16 PM   #1
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Options for Lowerer Trailer for Storage

The door to the pole barn I'd like to store my trailer in about 2" too short. What's the best way to lower my trailer just for storing (getting into the pole barn)?

* Reduce Trailer Ties, move into pole barn, add air back
* Jack up Trailer, replace tires with smaller ones for storage, in the spring after removing from pole barn, put regular tires back on
* Some other option I've not thought of?

Thanks,

- Justin
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Old 09-03-2011, 03:30 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbwjbw View Post
The door to the pole barn I'd like to store my trailer in about 2" too short. What's the best way to lower my trailer just for storing (getting into the pole barn)?

* Reduce Trailer Ties, move into pole barn, add air back
* Jack up Trailer, replace tires with smaller ones for storage, in the spring after removing from pole barn, put regular tires back on
* Some other option I've not thought of?

Thanks,

- Justin
Is the floor of the barn paved? If it is dirt, mayhap you could dig down a few inches.

Another possibility is if the springs run under the axles and you can get away with towing a trailer that sets a few inches lower, you might be able to get longer u-bolts and fit spacers between the springs and the perches to lower the trailer. I would first check with a spring and axle shop to see how feasible that would be.

I wouldn't let air out of the tires. By the time you let out enough to get the clearance you need, you run the risk of breaking the bead from the rim and/or ruining the tires.
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Old 09-03-2011, 04:14 PM   #3
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How about getting those four wheeled dollys that are used in the automotive industry. Lower the tailer onto four of those after taking the wheels off than push or drag it into the barn. It may require running a cement trac into the barn but worth it in my mind.
Another idea is to get the trailer next the barn with the wheel on the jack. Lower the jack until the front half of the trailer dips under the cross beam and push the trailer forward or use a come along to pull the trailer as far as it will go. Now raise the jack so the back half is able to dip under and than your in. You may have to let some air out at the middle point but wouldn't have to travel far before you could then re-inflate and adjust the jack. I would try this first if it's only two inches. Hope this helps and good luck.
Ps.it may also be easier just to dig out a run to get the trailer into the barn.
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Old 09-03-2011, 04:19 PM   #4
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I'm with Lady F. on this...if you have a dirt floor, get your shovel and dig you out a track to back the trailer in. If not, and you have an extra set of wheels/tires that will bolt up correctly and are a couple inches shorter, use them. If you didn't have to let out more than 20 lbs of air or so from your tires to get the clearance, this may be the way to go but as Lady F. said, you don't want to break the bead...if you do go this way, make sure you do air them back up for the winter and DO NOT forget to deflate them when you get the trailer out next spring. You have a few options, I'm sure you will find the right one.
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Old 09-03-2011, 04:47 PM   #5
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The pole barn does have a concrete floor so no option to dig it out. I too was worried about letting too much air out and causing issues.
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:11 PM   #6
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Get a jack hammer? Just kidding.

Since you are "stuck" with a concrete floor in the barn, Murphie's idea for the dolly's is sounding good. You would need a paved apron in front of the door.

What are the chances that you can raise the height of the door?
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:50 PM   #7
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Would be easier and simpler to raise the door height mop
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Old 09-04-2011, 08:39 AM   #8
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jbwjbw-- Can you hinge the door header or is it a structural part of the barn and not just the door way ? Larry
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Old 09-05-2011, 03:50 PM   #9
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I'd have to re-look. I think there was room to go up before hitting the structural part but my father-in-law thinks different. It's his pole barn so he's not really wanting to make many changes to it.

It would be nice to cut out part of the floor right at the door area (in a few feet) and pour that part lower or at an angle, but not sure about the cost and effort to do that.

Once the camper is past the door, I'd have about 2" between the plastic on the AC unit and the ceiling rafters, so we'll be ok once we get in (just have to say away from the lights :-)

So close and yet so far...

- Justin
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Old 09-07-2011, 03:26 PM   #10
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Invite you friends and relatives over for a BBQ. Tell them how nice the inside of your trailer is.When they all get inside it should drop a few inches, then back it inside. When the Spring comes, do the same thing again. If you have an AC unit on the roof,
you might be able to remove the cover. That should give you a couple of inches, and that's usually the highest point on the trailer.
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