recaulk question

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

What kind of sealant do i use for where the roof meets the sides and gutters?

[JDooley]

Remove all of the sealant.

Clean it well.

Pull out the black strip. Will expose rivits or screws. Cover these with sealant and reinstall black cover. If screws carefully tighten any found loose. Inspect rivits to assure tight and solid.

Use urethane sealant at the roof to termination bar also.

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

Jdooley. Thanks you so much for the reply. Is urethane sealant dicor non sag? osi quad? Proflex?

[JDooley]

Dicor non sag.

[PaulB12]

Look at Lexel also. No mildew, fast set, apply in dampness, waterproof, and comes in clear or white.
I used proflex for years and have switched to lexel. Comes in squeeze tube or regular caulk gun tube.

PaulB12

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

How can I clean it properly to prepare for sealant? I'm scard to squirt water and soap on there as can get under the rubber? I see some people say mineral spirits the alcohol and others say never use mineral spirits? I'm confused and a little nervous I dont want to ruin the roofing? Any recommendations?

[PaulB12]

Mild soap and water. Hand apply, wipe with damp cloth to clean away dirt and grime. Let dry and then clean with alcohol. Let dry and reseal with your choice of sealant. You know mine, Lexel!
PaulB12

[hikerjohn7]

Originally Posted by Jayco2015JayFLIGHT

What kind of sealant do i use for where the roof meets the sides and gutters?

Make sure the sealant is the one for rubber roofs. The call it self-leveling.

Dicor Lap Sealant in a tube is a good one.

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

Originally Posted by hikerjohn7

Make sure the sealant is the one for rubber roofs. The call it self-leveling.

Dicor Lap Sealant in a tube is a good one.

The dicor self leveling is for the top only. Only horizontal surface or it will drip down. But the dicor non leveling non sag is for the area I'm speaking of. Lol I've read like 20 threads and got alot of help from everyone. Much appreciated

[Riich]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

Two other areas that tend to leak. AC roof gasket. Check the mounting bolts annually. They should be snug, but not pulled down tight. The gasket should compress over time. Once the bolts are tight, you should replace the gasket.

Interesting. Are these bolts accessed from above or below? I know next to nothing on how the AC is mounted.

Thank you.

[JDooley]

Originally Posted by hikerjohn7

Make sure the sealant is the one for rubber roofs. The call it self-leveling.

Dicor Lap Sealant in a tube is a good one.

Lap sealant will flow and self level. Be careful on vertical surfaces I would use the regular dicor.

Tpo rubber roofs are cleaned with xylene in prep for thermal patching. Dont rub it beyond where the sealant is to be installed.

The prep is key to proper sealant installations.

[hikerjohn7]

Originally Posted by Jayco2015JayFLIGHT

The dicor self leveling is for the top only. Only horizontal surface or it will drip down. But the dicor non leveling non sag is for the area I'm speaking of. Lol I've read like 20 threads and got alot of help from everyone. Much appreciated

It's not that the Dicor is for the roof only because it will drip down. It's because the Dicor lends itself better for joints and seams in rubber and fiberglass roofs. It forms self leveling mounds.

For joints in the RV fiberglass outer walls, around windows and other protrusions in the walls, you need a different sealant more applicable for small, tight joints and seams. I like Proflex RV Flexible Sealant. You will probably want the clear. You can clean it up with mineral spirits.

[LuckyDuck]

Originally Posted by hikerjohn7

It's not that the Dicor is for the roof only because it will drip down. It's because the Dicor lends itself better for joints and seams in rubber and fiberglass roofs. It forms self leveling mounds.

For joints in the RV fiberglass outer walls, around windows and other protrusions in the walls, you need a different sealant more applicable for small, tight joints and seams. I like Proflex RV Flexible Sealant. You will probably want the clear. You can clean it up with mineral spirits.

X2 on Proflex. You can also smooth the joint easily with your finger and soapy water.

[PaulB12]

Lexel works too, and can be applied in the rain.
Used problem for years and now use lexel.

PaulB12

[hikerjohn7]

Originally Posted by PaulB12

Lexel works too, and can be applied in the rain.
Used problem for years and now use lexel.

PaulB12

Lexel sounds like a good product. I'll have to check into it.

Here's a link I stumbled on to on Flex Seal. It does not sound too good.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...tail&FORM=VIRE

[PaulB12]

Proflex^^^^^^
PaulB12

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

I'm not sure what was used around the storage compartments, plugs and lights but its turned yellow. It feels super hard. Definately not silicone. I havent tried removing but seems like it would be a b**ch. Can I put proflex right over the spots that are cracking or do i have to remove the old stuff?

[PaulB12]

Do the job right the first time.
I'd clean all old caulk, remove access hatch, remove all old brutal tape stuff. Re-do brutal tape stuff level perpendicular to tt side and use lexel caulk to finish.
I had a similar problem on our last tt and did it this way.
JMHO
PaulB12

[JDooley]

That looks like silicone (Very old) nothing sealant wise will cover it.
I would use the sealant the manufacturer recomends.
Do it once and correctly.

[RichCarter]

If it's silicone, JDooley is right. Nothing will stick to it. Try to put some Proflex on a small area and let it dry. If it sticks, you're OK to clean it up and put some Proflex over it.