recaulk question

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

Originally Posted by PaulB12

Ok, here is my fix for you.
Find an appropriate size ss wood screw just large enough and long enoughto be tight in the existing holes and not go through thickness of door. Clean both door and latch dohicky. Squeeze some caulk(I'd use either lexel or geocel pro flex) into holes. Use your choice of adhesive (mine would definitely be lexel caulk) to flat places on door catch and screw down being careful of not stripping holes with new screws. Let cure. Should be as good as original.
Again. That's how I'd fix if it were mine.

Paul B12

Paul thanks I definately like the simplicity of your idea. But I dont know how that will hold up when t hook is attatched and the wind is pulling on the door? Those are some pretty big hole do they make wood screws that thick? Lol Also the top right hole is pretty banged up dont know if there is anything left for a screw to grab onto. I believe inside of door is foam board insulation(so nothing to grab inside) with just thin sheet of fiber glass or something on the outside.

[LuckyDuck]

I’d suggest plugging the holes with this first: Marine-Tex® Epoxy Putty | Marine Tex
I’ve used it for small dings on our sailboat. It hardens nicely and can be drilled, tapped etc. Just push in enough to fill the holes and shape or sand it. Then use the screws as Paul mentioned, with some caulk.

[PaulB12]

Ok, if holes are overly big I would add a larger aluminum plate newly screwed or riveted on the door. Then add latch piece to aluminum plate, caulking as you go.
Paul B12

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

I would love to just fill with epoxy( this was my first thought) but is epoxy gonna form a strong bond on foam insulation? Idk.. Just doesnt sound like it will work in the long run.

So I guess the aluminum plate is my best bet. But my question if I go this route what kind of screw is going to hold plate to door? I originally bought self tapping metal screws but I think the door is fiber glass and then foam board. I plan on putting some epoxy behind the plate for strength and rv flex around the edges of the plate for waterproofing. I dont know what screws will work best? Or if epoxy will bond the plate strong enough to the door on its own..but my instincts tell me eventually it will come off with out screws.. wood screws? Or self tapping screws? Orrr...?

Also I just looked at my receipt. My metal sheet is cold rolled 22 gauge. I belive thats steel. Is that ok? I dont think they had aluminum. I plan on painting it with black rustoleum. I'm going to be painting my whole frame and leveling jacks of trailer tomorrow with satin black rustoleum. Its faded and a little rusty in areas. I sanded everything today.

[LuckyDuck]

Originally Posted by Jayco2015JayFLIGHT

I would love to just fill with epoxy( this was my first thought) but is epoxy gonna form a strong bond on foam insulation? Idk.. Just doesnt sound like it will work in the long run.

So I guess the aluminum plate is my best bet. But my question if I go this route what kind of screw is going to hold plate to door? I originally bought self tapping metal screws but I think the door is fiber glass and then foam board. I plan on putting some epoxy behind the plate for strength and rv flex around the edges of the plate for waterproofing. I dont know what screws will work best? Or if epoxy will bond the plate strong enough to the door on its own..but my instincts tell me eventually it will come off with out screws.. wood screws? Or self tapping screws? Orrr...?

Also I just looked at my receipt. My metal sheet is cold rolled 22 gauge. I belive thats steel. Is that ok? I dont think they had aluminum. I plan on painting it with black rustoleum. I'm going to be painting my whole frame and leveling jacks of trailer tomorrow with satin black rustoleum. Its faded and a little rusty in areas. I sanded everything today.

I don’t claim to be an RV tech or fiberglass fabricator, but I think you might be overthinking things. You just need to create or recreate a solid fiberglass surface to attach the mounting screws, right? Not sure why you need a strong bond to the foam insulation. Packing the epoxy in the holes and letting it harden should give you a flat solid surface to screw into. It’s just to hold the door latch — doesn’t need to withstand F5 winds does it?

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

Originally Posted by LuckyDuck

I don’t claim to be an RV tech or fiberglass fabricator, but I think you might be overthinking things. You just need to create or recreate a solid fiberglass surface to attach the mounting screws, right? Not sure why you need a strong bond to the foam insulation. Packing the epoxy in the holes and letting it harden should give you a flat solid surface to screw into. It’s just to hold the door latch — doesn’t need to withstand F5 winds does it?

Lol your probably right. I say the foam because when I look in the holes that's all I see. So essentially the epoxy will be bonding to the foam.

[LuckyDuck]

I think if you pack it in there, it should bond to the exterior fiberglass “wall” and harden. But maybe a quick query of your local RV dealer tech to be sure?

[PaulB12]

Not pretty but you could go with through bolts. Using washers on the back would be able to withstand almost F5 winds!!
As said above quit overthinking it just do it!(hehe).
PaulB12

[JDooley]

Marine tex...hollow some foam out till there is a recess between inside and outside panels. Install the plastic (fake) wood from home depot. Use 3m 5200 adhesive sealant to bond the plastic wood in place. Use the marine tex, after 10 days to allow sealant to set around the wood to fill any gaps. On the inside cover wit a shiit of aluminum then install hardware and fasteners

[Scoutmaster253]

Originally Posted by Jayco2015JayFLIGHT

Lol your probably right. I say the foam because when I look in the holes that's all I see. So essentially the epoxy will be bonding to the foam.

The epoxy might attack the foam. You may want to test for compatibility before you go too far.

[JDooley]

Test it..but I dont think it will be an issue

[Jayco2015JayFLIGHT]

I noticed around my windows where the trim in the corners isnt tucked all the way under. Is this suppose to be like that or did florida sun shrink them?

2nd question should I put some proflex over them?

[PaulB12]

Hopefully that trim is a beauty type trim. The sealing is done to the window itself, so is up to you.
And yes sun and weather shrinkage, unless it's cold out(hehe!)
PaulB12

[hikerjohn7]

Originally Posted by PaulB12

Hopefully that trim is a beauty type trim. The sealing is done to the window itself, so is up to you.
And yes sun and weather shrinkage, unless it's cold out(hehe!)
PaulB12

Yes, sun and time make rubber seals become brittle and crack and perhaps even shrink. It certainly makes sealant, where it's exposed, shrink and pull apart forming cracks and voids. My RV is only about 4 years old and the seals and in Florida's sun sealants are starting to deteriorate.

I just reapplied new sealant to all the Proflex joints/seams after I discovered floor damage and rusty screws in my slide outs. I also had all the lap seal beads removed and replaced on the roof. It's a pain but that's what you have to do to keep them for ten years.

I also just tried a new trick to help me detect leaks getting inside the RV. I purchased some inexpensive little Govee hygrometers which I can monitor with my cell phone using bluetooth. They tell me the relative humidity in their vicinity. I placed them on the floors next to the outer walls inside each of my slides. Now, every time I check on my RV, I get out my phone and I can see if any of the sensors are reading high humidity. Their batteries last for about a year. Here's the link on them...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224204035879