RV Carport/Shelter/Garage

[shrpshtr]

All,

I am in the final stages of designing a shelter to keep my RV in. I am pretty sure of the overall design I have in mind but I'm running into a couple gotchas along the way. That's where I'd like y'all's help. Those that are willing, would you post a picture on your carport/garage/shelter where you store your RV? It can be any type or variation. Thanks in advance.

shrp

[norty1]

Here’s mine.

[Atlee]

What are the dimensions on your shelter?

Originally Posted by norty1

Here’s mine.

[norty1]

Originally Posted by Atlee

What are the dimensions on your shelter?

36' x 16'. 12' side poles.

[Pfflyer]

20' x 30'

[Shorty Cox]

No pic. Don't make my mistake. I've got a 36'X12' Coast to Coast Carport with 12' legs. It covers the RV, but I can't extend the slides which is a problem. I should have got the 18' wide model.

[Gypsea]

Ours is the same as Norty's, except back side is closed to ground and sides are closed to within 4' of ground. 35' long, 18' wide, 10' side posts, which give 12'6" center clearance. 18' wide allows for slide outs to open, but my 22FB has no slides. Just planned for future. It's at a storage facility, and I'll have it disassembled and rebuilt if I ever move. Got from a company in Mt. Airy, NC. Cost $3k incl. erection. Certified for 140 mph winds. 30# snow load. Plan to hang down mesh shade cloth half way down on open (South) end for summer months.

[spoon059]

https://www.alansfactoryoutlet.com/carolina-carports

This is where I found the best price for me in Maryland. I don't know how to post pics anymore, but I have a 31' long, 18' wide with 10' legs with boxed eaves. It is tall enough with the 10' legs that I have about one foot of clearance at the center for my AC. It is wide enough that I can keep my slide open at home, plus have plenty of covered area to walk around the camper to load gear. I wish it was a little longer, but 31' is all the room I had before I hit a hill in my back yard.

It has hurricane ties for my area's wind load, additional bracing for my areas snow load as well. Prices on the website take into account restrictions or requirements for your environment.

I leveled the area and simply installed gravel, to keep it a temporary structure. I poured some concrete pads for the tires, so I can easily level it. I think I paid right around $2400 for it. That included delivery and installation. A team of 3 guys came and installed it in a couple hours in the morning. I was parked underneath it after lunch time. I was very happy with it, I still am. It is covered 320 days a year with no extra effort on my part. When I sell my house, it can quickly be removed if the new owner doesn't want it. It'll be standing for about 12 years by the time I plan to sell my house so it will have cost me about $200 a year (a little more than $15 a month) to store my camper covered for 12 years.

[FeatherFam]

My winter project is getting pavement estimates from contractors for a new driveway and RV port pad. I am also talking with contractors for a utility station for the RV port. I have not selected the cover material or supplier yet. We are going to be in the 20-25'x30-35' range.

[DaveT]

Are there "generally accepted" garage heights needed for various trailers? As in, single axle: X'; double axle: Y'; class A=Z'; with AC add 2'; with flipped axles add 1', etc.?

Or maybe 5th wheel = A'; TT = B'

Similar to how most trailers have 8' width or whatever.

David

[WeRJuliian]

In the days when we had a pop-up, it would fit our existing carport.

Now that's we've come up in the world and got a hybrid, there's no room, so it has to sit on a pad between the carport and the fence. ... and I had to cut some trees down to get it in there!

Fortunately, here in Florida, we don't need heavy-weather covering, because it's too close to the property line to build a roofed structure.

[01tundra]

Here’s the one I build for our TT -

[Atlee]

But I would think you need something to keep the hot sun off of it.

Originally Posted by WeRJuliian

In the days when we had a pop-up, it would fit our existing carport.

Now that's we've come up in the world and got a hybrid, there's no room, so it has to sit on a pad between the carport and the fence. ... and I had to cut some trees down to get it in there!

Fortunately, here in Florida, we don't need heavy-weather covering, because it's too close to the property line to build a roofed structure.

[Gypsea]

My earlier post noted a 35' length of my metal RVport. It's 31'... sorry for mistake. Nearly half of the cost (total $3k) is the fully enclosed rear wall & adding two sheets of metal on each side making the side enclosed to 4' off the ground. I'm in eastern NC, so like in Florida, the sun cooks the roof. I also felt the trailer rear and sides should have sun protection, but some air flow on the sides. With the 18' width and the sun angle, the sides should protect nearly the entire trailer side walls. As noted, my plan is to hang a sunscreen mesh curtain down about half way on the open front wall to protect the trailer front & decals.

[farnik78]

18x35 with 12’ legs from carportsandmore.com. I went with the vertical roof panels.


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[poohbear]

I built ours 20 x 45 with 15 ft sides. I used 4in sq tube for posts. I can't figure out picture posting.
One thing, you can't make it toooooo big. We are looking at upgrading to something with the 1/2 bath so wish had made it 50 ft long.

[Rock]

Mine is a Carolina RV carport. 20x45 with 12 ft side poles full sides half back
Rock

[Atlee]

Vertical roof panels are the only want to go, if you get snow/sleet/ice.

Originally Posted by farnik78

Attachment 36697

18x35 with 12’ legs from carportsandmore.com. I went with the vertical roof panels.


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[poohbear]

Here is ours, think I figured the photo post out. This is 20x45 x15 wall with 3ft appron

[farnik78]

Originally Posted by farnik78

Attachment 36697

18x35 with 12’ legs from carportsandmore.com. I went with the vertical roof panels.


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I have recently added a back wall. Much more stable in heavy wind now. The back wall is an option when you purchase the building but I was cheap. Which actually worked out because the wall I added in the pic is much sturdier.






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