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07-06-2013, 08:24 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Leander, Texas
Posts: 12
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shore power is not charging battery? first time rv-er here
I have a 2012 swift slx 154bh and while getting it ready for our first trip out I had it plugged into my garage outlet, everything worked fine off of the 110. I pulled the camper 4 hours to a family members lakehouse, once here I plugged straight in to a 30amp plug and was getting no charge from the shore power and the a/c wouldn't kick on. I brought a generator as a backup plan but even that won't charge the battery, but the a/c works now? I can only get the battery to charge if I start the truck. I checked all the fuses and breakers, all seems good. The converters working since my 110 plugs work but why can't I get charging power from a 110 source?
Am I missing something stupid?
__________________
Travis
Flickr pictures
2012 Jayco Swift SLX 154BH
2008 F350 King Ranch - A few fun things, Newton 2-1/2" leveling kit, HID headlights and fogs, 325/60 Hankook Dynapro ATM2's on stock 20" wheels, Firestone ride rite air bags, Air Lift wireless air controller, B&W gooseneck
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2005 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - with some stuff
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07-06-2013, 08:44 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 4,792
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Your converter provides 12V from 120V
Check the output side of your converter with the battery disconnected.
The converter should be putting out ~12.5 - 13.5V and all your 12V system should work. Lights etc.
If you have 0 volts on the output side of the converter you either have fuses on the backside bad or the converter is bad.
The fuses on the back side of my converter had small screws that had to be loosened to remove them.'
You can carefully check them in place with a multi-meter touching the two sides of the filament.
Not sure why your ac wasn't working with shore power/
Doug
__________________
Cape Coral, Florida
2021 Toyota Tundra SR5, 5.7 V8
2022 Jayco 240RBS
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07-06-2013, 09:30 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Leander, Texas
Posts: 12
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Thanks for the reply, I'll check the back of the converter for fuses in the morning. Hopefully it's something simple like that!
__________________
Travis
Flickr pictures
2012 Jayco Swift SLX 154BH
2008 F350 King Ranch - A few fun things, Newton 2-1/2" leveling kit, HID headlights and fogs, 325/60 Hankook Dynapro ATM2's on stock 20" wheels, Firestone ride rite air bags, Air Lift wireless air controller, B&W gooseneck
Build Thread
2005 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - with some stuff
Build thread
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07-06-2013, 10:05 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 6,818
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I'm suspecting the 30A plug was not wired properly and it popped a fuse on the converter (and why the AC wouldn't operate). It's a good idea to check out every outlet before plugging in. Good luck with the new TT.
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07-07-2013, 04:42 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: King George
Posts: 2,761
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This is a simplified flow chart for the typical 30AMP Trailer Electrical wiring.
Your description of NO Battery charging sounds like the battery may have been have installed with the battery terminals REVERSED. The simple check is to observe where the word "NEG" or the symbol "-" is marked on the 12VDC battery case and make sure this is the terminal that is going to the trailer frame ground. If this is the case then correct this right away before replacing any 12VDC fuses. When connected in reverse polarity normally two fuses on the Power Distribution Panel labeled REVERSE POLARITY will be blown. There is also an IN-LINE fuse very close to the battery that may be blown as well. A charged battery should read 12.6-12.7VDC at the battery terminals. When connected to shore power then this DC VOLTAGE at the battery terminal should read 13.6VDC unless it is in bulk charge mode which will read 14.4VDC. This increased DC Voltage is coming from the on-board Converter/Charger unit when connected to the shore power. Having a multimeter around is most useful to have.
Keep in mind without the shore power connected the trailer ceiling lights should be operating from the battery. The diagram shows a few other items that also must be activated from the 12VDC battery when shore power is NOT ON.
Once all of these items list here are working from the battery then you can connect the trailer to the Shore Power connection and it should charge your battery them.
just my thoughts
Roy Ken
__________________
Roy and Carolyn
I claim Horse Creek Country in Southern Ill - Momabear is from North Texas
We live in King George VA
RETIRED DOD DOAF DON CONTRACTOR Electronics Tech 42YRS
"We're burning daylight" - John Wayne
2008 STARCRAFT 14RT OFF-ROAD POPUP with PD9260C and three 85AH 12VDC batteries
2010 F150 FX4 5.4 GAS with 3.73 gears - Super Cab - Towing Package - 2KW Honda EU2000i Gen
K9PHT (since 1957) 146.52Mhz
"We always have a PLAN B"
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07-07-2013, 04:59 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Leander, Texas
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougtoms01
Your converter provides 12V from 120V
Check the output side of your converter with the battery disconnected.
The converter should be putting out ~12.5 - 13.5V and all your 12V system should work. Lights etc.
If you have 0 volts on the output side of the converter you either have fuses on the backside bad or the converter is bad.
The fuses on the back side of my converter had small screws that had to be loosened to remove them.'
You can carefully check them in place with a multi-meter touching the two sides of the filament.
Not sure why your ac wasn't working with shore power/
Doug
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Well I just plugged back up to 120v power at my house and the battery is still not charging I know it worked before the trip because while I was plugged in, if I turned a few lights on the converter fan would kick on and the battery monitor on the wall showed full battery charge. Now the battery shows it's not charging and I'm only getting 12.4 volts at the battery. How to I go about checking the output side of the converter? None of the fuses on the front of the converter are bad and the fuse by the battery is good as well. I did notice that if I pulled the 40amp reverse battery polarity fuse at the converter and put it back in the fan would come on for a second but then go back off. So that would mean the converter is at least getting power, right? I didn't see any fuses on the back of the converter but maybe I missed them?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threebutchers
I'm suspecting the 30A plug was not wired properly and it popped a fuse on the converter (and why the AC wouldn't operate). It's a good idea to check out every outlet before plugging in. Good luck with the new TT.
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But it was working fine before the trip and now it's getting nothing from shore power? Maybe the 30A breaker is bad or something?
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyBraddy
This is a simplified flow chart for the typical 30AMP Trailer Electrical wiring.
Your description of NO Battery charging sounds like the battery may have been have installed with the battery terminals REVERSED. The simple check is to observe where the word "NEG" or the symbol "-" is marked on the 12VDC battery case and make sure this is the terminal that is going to the trailer frame ground. If this is the case then correct this right away before replacing any 12VDC fuses. When connected in reverse polarity normally two fuses on the Power Distribution Panel labeled REVERSE POLARITY will be blown. There is also an IN-LINE fuse very close to the battery that may be blown as well. A charged battery should read 12.6-12.7VDC at the battery terminals. When connected to shore power then this DC VOLTAGE at the battery terminal should read 13.6VDC unless it is in bulk charge mode which will read 14.4VDC. This increased DC Voltage is coming from the on-board Converter/Charger unit when connected to the shore power. Having a multimeter around is most useful to have.
Keep in mind without the shore power connected the trailer ceiling lights should be operating from the battery. The diagram shows a few other items that also must be activated from the 12VDC battery when shore power is NOT ON.
Once all of these items list here are working from the battery then you can connect the trailer to the Shore Power connection and it should charge your battery them.
just my thoughts
Roy Ken
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Thanks for the diagram Roy! I'm pretty mechanically savvy so I tried checking simple things first but being new to TT, something as simple as a switch was what I was hoping for. I disconnected the battery and I got nothing from the lights so I assume this means there is no power being converted. Do converters just go bad? I do have a fluke multimeter so checking things are not a problem I would just like a direction to head in.
It's just very strange that everything was working fine before the trip and after towing it 4 hours it didn't work off shore power anymore? Here are some general pics of what I'm working with
__________________
Travis
Flickr pictures
2012 Jayco Swift SLX 154BH
2008 F350 King Ranch - A few fun things, Newton 2-1/2" leveling kit, HID headlights and fogs, 325/60 Hankook Dynapro ATM2's on stock 20" wheels, Firestone ride rite air bags, Air Lift wireless air controller, B&W gooseneck
Build Thread
2005 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - with some stuff
Build thread
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07-07-2013, 06:40 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Leander, Texas
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougtoms01
Your converter provides 12V from 120V
Check the output side of your converter with the battery disconnected.
The converter should be putting out ~12.5 - 13.5V and all your 12V system should work. Lights etc.
If you have 0 volts on the output side of the converter you either have fuses on the backside bad or the converter is bad.
The fuses on the back side of my converter had small screws that had to be loosened to remove them.'
You can carefully check them in place with a multi-meter touching the two sides of the filament.
Not sure why your ac wasn't working with shore power/
Doug
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Well I just plugged back up to 120v power at my house and the battery is still not charging I know it worked before the trip because while I was plugged in, if I turned a few lights on the converter fan would kick on and the battery monitor on the wall showed full battery charge. Now the battery shows it's not charging and I'm only getting 12.4 volts at the battery. How to I go about checking the output side of the converter? None of the fuses on the front of the converter are bad and the fuse by the battery is good as well. I did notice that if I pulled the 40amp reverse battery polarity fuse at the converter and put it back in the fan would come on for a second but then go back off. So that would mean the converter is at least getting power, right? I didn't see any fuses on the back of the converter but maybe I missed them?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threebutchers
I'm suspecting the 30A plug was not wired properly and it popped a fuse on the converter (and why the AC wouldn't operate). It's a good idea to check out every outlet before plugging in. Good luck with the new TT.
|
But it was working fine before the trip and now it's getting nothing from shore power? Maybe the 30A breaker is bad or something?
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyBraddy
This is a simplified flow chart for the typical 30AMP Trailer Electrical wiring.
Your description of NO Battery charging sounds like the battery may have been have installed with the battery terminals REVERSED. The simple check is to observe where the word "NEG" or the symbol "-" is marked on the 12VDC battery case and make sure this is the terminal that is going to the trailer frame ground. If this is the case then correct this right away before replacing any 12VDC fuses. When connected in reverse polarity normally two fuses on the Power Distribution Panel labeled REVERSE POLARITY will be blown. There is also an IN-LINE fuse very close to the battery that may be blown as well. A charged battery should read 12.6-12.7VDC at the battery terminals. When connected to shore power then this DC VOLTAGE at the battery terminal should read 13.6VDC unless it is in bulk charge mode which will read 14.4VDC. This increased DC Voltage is coming from the on-board Converter/Charger unit when connected to the shore power. Having a multimeter around is most useful to have.
Keep in mind without the shore power connected the trailer ceiling lights should be operating from the battery. The diagram shows a few other items that also must be activated from the 12VDC battery when shore power is NOT ON.
Once all of these items list here are working from the battery then you can connect the trailer to the Shore Power connection and it should charge your battery them.
just my thoughts
Roy Ken
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Thanks for the diagram Roy! I'm pretty mechanically savvy so I tried checking simple things first but being new to TT, something as simple as a switch was what I was hoping for. I disconnected the battery and I got nothing from the lights so I assume this means there is no power being converted. Do converters just go bad? I do have a fluke multimeter so checking things are not a problem I would just like a direction to head in.
It's just very strange that everything was working fine before the trip and after towing it 4 hours it didn't work off shore power anymore? Here are some general pics of what I'm working with
Attachment 8936
Attachment 8937
Attachment 8938
Attachment 8939
__________________
Travis
Flickr pictures
2012 Jayco Swift SLX 154BH
2008 F350 King Ranch - A few fun things, Newton 2-1/2" leveling kit, HID headlights and fogs, 325/60 Hankook Dynapro ATM2's on stock 20" wheels, Firestone ride rite air bags, Air Lift wireless air controller, B&W gooseneck
Build Thread
2005 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - with some stuff
Build thread
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07-07-2013, 09:31 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Leander, Texas
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougtoms01
Your converter provides 12V from 120V
Check the output side of your converter with the battery disconnected.
The converter should be putting out ~12.5 - 13.5V and all your 12V system should work. Lights etc.
If you have 0 volts on the output side of the converter you either have fuses on the backside bad or the converter is bad.
The fuses on the back side of my converter had small screws that had to be loosened to remove them.'
You can carefully check them in place with a multi-meter touching the two sides of the filament.
Not sure why your ac wasn't working with shore power/
Doug
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Well I just plugged back up to 120v power at my house and the battery is still not charging I know it worked before the trip because while I was plugged in, if I turned a few lights on the converter fan would kick on and the battery monitor on the wall showed full battery charge. Now the battery shows it's not charging and I'm only getting 12.4 volts at the battery. How to I go about checking the output side of the converter? None of the fuses on the front of the converter are bad and the fuse by the battery is good as well. I did notice that if I pulled the 40amp reverse battery polarity fuse at the converter and put it back in the fan would come on for a second but then go back off. So that would mean the converter is at least getting power, right? I didn't see any fuses on the back of the converter but maybe I missed them?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threebutchers
I'm suspecting the 30A plug was not wired properly and it popped a fuse on the converter (and why the AC wouldn't operate). It's a good idea to check out every outlet before plugging in. Good luck with the new TT.
|
But it was working fine before the trip and now it's getting nothing from shore power? Maybe the 30A breaker is bad or something?
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyBraddy
This is a simplified flow chart for the typical 30AMP Trailer Electrical wiring.
Your description of NO Battery charging sounds like the battery may have been have installed with the battery terminals REVERSED. The simple check is to observe where the word "NEG" or the symbol "-" is marked on the 12VDC battery case and make sure this is the terminal that is going to the trailer frame ground. If this is the case then correct this right away before replacing any 12VDC fuses. When connected in reverse polarity normally two fuses on the Power Distribution Panel labeled REVERSE POLARITY will be blown. There is also an IN-LINE fuse very close to the battery that may be blown as well. A charged battery should read 12.6-12.7VDC at the battery terminals. When connected to shore power then this DC VOLTAGE at the battery terminal should read 13.6VDC unless it is in bulk charge mode which will read 14.4VDC. This increased DC Voltage is coming from the on-board Converter/Charger unit when connected to the shore power. Having a multimeter around is most useful to have.
Keep in mind without the shore power connected the trailer ceiling lights should be operating from the battery. The diagram shows a few other items that also must be activated from the 12VDC battery when shore power is NOT ON.
Once all of these items list here are working from the battery then you can connect the trailer to the Shore Power connection and it should charge your battery them.
just my thoughts
Roy Ken
|
Thanks for the diagram Roy! I'm pretty mechanically savvy so I tried checking simple things first but being new to TT, something as simple as a switch was what I was hoping for. I disconnected the battery and I got nothing from the lights so I assume this means there is no power being converted. Do converters just go bad? I do have a fluke multimeter so checking things are not a problem I would just like a direction to head in.
It's just very strange that everything was working fine before the trip and after towing it 4 hours it didn't work off shore power anymore? Here are some general pics of what I'm working with
Attachment 8936
Attachment 8937
Attachment 8938
Attachment 8939
__________________
Travis
Flickr pictures
2012 Jayco Swift SLX 154BH
2008 F350 King Ranch - A few fun things, Newton 2-1/2" leveling kit, HID headlights and fogs, 325/60 Hankook Dynapro ATM2's on stock 20" wheels, Firestone ride rite air bags, Air Lift wireless air controller, B&W gooseneck
Build Thread
2005 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - with some stuff
Build thread
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07-09-2013, 08:14 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Leander, Texas
Posts: 12
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Wow, sorry for the triple post
I couldn't find a edit button to delete the posts, if there is one please point me in the right direction or maybe a moderator can delete the other 2.
Maybe since they were "reviewed" posts, I can't edit them? I see the edit button on my other posts....
__________________
Travis
Flickr pictures
2012 Jayco Swift SLX 154BH
2008 F350 King Ranch - A few fun things, Newton 2-1/2" leveling kit, HID headlights and fogs, 325/60 Hankook Dynapro ATM2's on stock 20" wheels, Firestone ride rite air bags, Air Lift wireless air controller, B&W gooseneck
Build Thread
2005 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - with some stuff
Build thread
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07-09-2013, 08:23 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 6,818
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Travis - click "edit post" (if the option is still available) then click "delete" ....then click the radio button "reason" "delete"....then click "delete" one last time at the bottom of the form....
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07-09-2013, 08:53 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 6,818
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Travis
Looks like you have a WFCO Converter like me. It is curious that you can remove the the "reverse polarity" fuse and the converter fan will run a short time. My converter fan cycles when I restore power to it. The Owners manual notes that my WFCO converter has "Electronic Current Limiting" feature that "automatically shuts down the converter upon a power overload or short-circuit condition"....then "automatically returns to normal operation after conditions are corrected".
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07-09-2013, 10:28 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Leander, Texas
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threebutchers
Travis
Looks like you have a WFCO Converter like me. It is curious that you can remove the the "reverse polarity" fuse and the converter fan will run a short time. My converter fan cycles when I restore power to it. The Owners manual notes that my WFCO converter has "Electronic Current Limiting" feature that "automatically shuts down the converter upon a power overload or short-circuit condition"....then "automatically returns to normal operation after conditions are corrected".
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Yep, I have a WFCO. The fan cycles after I remove the fuse then reinstall so it seems its able to "reset" itself? Maybe fine just shut down and wasn't able to automatically return, maybe the breaker itself is bad? I'm looking into WFCO's warranty since its a 2 year parts and labor warranty and I don't think it says anything about voiding it after the 1st buyer.
__________________
Travis
Flickr pictures
2012 Jayco Swift SLX 154BH
2008 F350 King Ranch - A few fun things, Newton 2-1/2" leveling kit, HID headlights and fogs, 325/60 Hankook Dynapro ATM2's on stock 20" wheels, Firestone ride rite air bags, Air Lift wireless air controller, B&W gooseneck
Build Thread
2005 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - with some stuff
Build thread
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07-11-2013, 07:31 AM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Leander, Texas
Posts: 12
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I'm taking it in to a local dealer I know tomorrow morning to try to get WFCO to warranty it. They will confirm the issue and file a claim with WFCO, no where in WFCO warranty writing does it say first time owners only so hopefully this shouldn't be an issue. I'll post an update with the outcome
Thanks for everyone's help
Travis
__________________
Travis
Flickr pictures
2012 Jayco Swift SLX 154BH
2008 F350 King Ranch - A few fun things, Newton 2-1/2" leveling kit, HID headlights and fogs, 325/60 Hankook Dynapro ATM2's on stock 20" wheels, Firestone ride rite air bags, Air Lift wireless air controller, B&W gooseneck
Build Thread
2005 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - with some stuff
Build thread
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07-25-2013, 07:43 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Leander, Texas
Posts: 12
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Well, it turns out the converter is bad. WFCO's warranty paperwork that came with the trailer doesn't mention anything about only applying to the first owner but after looking the wording up on their site it does say "original owner". That was kinda misleading since I believe it should be on all paperwork if that's their policy. With having a young soon and a long honeydo list I opted to have the dealer replace it for me. Now at least I have a warranty on the new converter and a labor warranty if they mess up installing it. I would have liked to tackle it myself and put the new one in but too many other things took precedent.
We are suppose to be getting it back tomorrow so hopefully it all works!
__________________
Travis
Flickr pictures
2012 Jayco Swift SLX 154BH
2008 F350 King Ranch - A few fun things, Newton 2-1/2" leveling kit, HID headlights and fogs, 325/60 Hankook Dynapro ATM2's on stock 20" wheels, Firestone ride rite air bags, Air Lift wireless air controller, B&W gooseneck
Build Thread
2005 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - with some stuff
Build thread
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08-03-2013, 11:38 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Leander, Texas
Posts: 12
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Update, I picked it up from the dealer and everything works fine now. I assume that I overloaded the circuit when trying to power up the large a/c from a sketchy shower power source. Lesson learned and I went ahead and picked up a Honda EU3000is generator as backup so I should be good to go now. Thanks for everyone's help on this!!
__________________
Travis
Flickr pictures
2012 Jayco Swift SLX 154BH
2008 F350 King Ranch - A few fun things, Newton 2-1/2" leveling kit, HID headlights and fogs, 325/60 Hankook Dynapro ATM2's on stock 20" wheels, Firestone ride rite air bags, Air Lift wireless air controller, B&W gooseneck
Build Thread
2005 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - with some stuff
Build thread
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08-03-2013, 12:24 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 6,818
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Thanks for the update! Everybody learns when we get the happy ending....
Happy Camping / Wheelin'
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