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Old 06-20-2017, 02:50 PM   #1
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Solar Suitcase - won't charge when battery is low?

I'm about to pull the trigger on a the Renogy 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Foldable Solar Suitcase. Mostly everything I've read about it is great. The one thing that struck me was that it sounds like the controller won't work (thus, the whole unit won't work) unless the battery already has 9 or 10 volts. Rookie question: Is there another component I could use with this panel & controller to charge my battery if it does go below 9-10 volts? I don't plan to get stuck below 10 volts, but if it happens, it would be nice to be able to use the solar to charge, somehow.
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Old 06-20-2017, 03:05 PM   #2
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You could use shore power, a generator, or connect battery into the tow vehicle.
"Possibly" you could bypass the controller completely until the battery reaches the required voltage. I think the main reason for the controller is to prevent overcharging...but don't quote me on that.
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Old 06-20-2017, 03:29 PM   #3
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You could use shore power, a generator, or connect battery into the tow vehicle.
"Possibly" you could bypass the controller completely until the battery reaches the required voltage. I think the main reason for the controller is to prevent overcharging...but don't quote me on that.
Thanks. I actually was wondering (still am since you're not sure either), if it would work when bypassing the controller. I'll see if that's even possible when it arrives.
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Old 06-20-2017, 04:19 PM   #4
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I'm about to pull the trigger on a the Mostly everything I've read about it is great. The one thing that struck me was that it sounds like the controller won't work (thus, the whole unit won't work) unless the battery already has 9 or 10 volts. Rookie question: Is there another component I could use with this panel & controller to charge my battery if it does go below 9-10 volts? I don't plan to get stuck below 10 volts, but if it happens, it would be nice to be able to use the solar to charge, somehow.
Just so you understand your battery is DEAD at 10.5Volts. A couple trips down to that voltage and the battery will be useless as it will discharge in a very short time.

Instead of planning on charging the batteries at such a low voltage invest in a Digital Voltage Display that you can monitor the battery voltage and shut down your 12Volt system when the voltage hits 12.0VDC. Replacing batteries can become an expensive part of camping.

But to answer your question, SOLAR charge controllers are meant to maintain a voltage in the 12VDC range. They are not designed to do a complete charge of a dead battery. You do not want to connect the panels directly to the batteries as the panel voltage is probably 24VDC in that kit you are getting.

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Old 06-20-2017, 04:45 PM   #5
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Thanks Mustang. I was hoping you'd reply as I've seen you on numerous solar threads. I've probably gotten a bit confused with electrical terminology as I'm hung up on "your battery is DEAD at 10.5Volts". When we camped a few weeks ago (no hookups), I used a mulitmeter to check the camper's battery about a dozen times, and we maintained it above 12 the whole time, but I assumed that if I hadn't run the TV to charge it morning and night, I'd probably have dropped it below 11 or even 10. It sounds like that would have limited the life of the battery pretty significantly.
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Old 06-20-2017, 05:12 PM   #6
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The appliances in your rig will not work or even worse at that voltage. Most are engineered to shut themselves down at low voltage.
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Old 06-20-2017, 05:41 PM   #7
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What you can try is should the batteries ever get to a low voltage (around 10.5 volts), leave the SOLAR charge controller hooked up and if there is enough SUN, hook up the TV to charge the battery. With the charge coming from the TV it will bring the battery voltage up to somewhere between 12 and 14.2. Leave the TV run for a few minutes then disconnect the TV. This may have locked in the PWM SOLAR charger and will continue to charge your battery(s). Since there is probably only about 3 or 4 amps from the panel, it will not do much. Take a look in the RVing with SOLAR social group, there is a lot of good information there regarding SOLAR and batteries.... Join the group and keep us informed as to how it is going.

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Old 06-20-2017, 05:45 PM   #8
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The Renogy suitcase panels work great!! I have two of them. But don't assume that they will be all that you need, particularly if you are using an inverter to make AC power. A generator is still required if you are going to do long term dry camping. Mustang is right on target about installing a digital voltage readout. You'll find that to be one of the most useful tools that you"ll have. Particularly when you aren't hooked to shore power.
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Old 06-21-2017, 10:03 AM   #9
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Thanks all. I've purchased the Renogy Solar Suitcase and will test it out it in a week and a half when we head back to the mountains. I've checked out the pics of your setup, Don. That looks pretty sophisticated. The 'blueprints' you put up are very helpful. I don't think I'll need anything quite like that yet...not wiith my little 16XRB. For now, I'm going to play with this new solar panel and see how it works.
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Old 06-21-2017, 10:22 AM   #10
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You just crossed the SOLAR LINE.... there is no looking back now! Once this weekend is over you will be sitting down and trying to figure out how you can add MORE SOLAR. Maybe a SOLAR panel awning that attaches where the awning used to mount, to replace the cloth one you have... ,maybe SOLAR window awnings that you in hook and extend at the CG, Panels on the top of the TV... maybe..... maybe.... see your imagination is already going SOLAR crazy.

Keep us informed as to how the weekend went... no clouds I hope... nothing but BRIGHT SUNNY sky!

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Old 06-21-2017, 10:28 AM   #11
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You just crossed the SOLAR LINE.... there is no looking back now! Once this weekend is over you will be sitting down and trying to figure out how you can add MORE SOLAR. Maybe a SOLAR panel awning that attaches where the awning used to mount, to replace the cloth one you have... ,maybe SOLAR window awnings that you in hook and extend at the CG, Panels on the top of the TV... maybe..... maybe.... see your imagination is already going SOLAR crazy.

Keep us informed as to how the weekend went... no clouds I hope... nothing but BRIGHT SUNNY sky!

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Haha. Thanks Don! I can see how solar can become an addiction. I'll let you know how the test run goes!
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Old 06-21-2017, 12:20 PM   #12
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The appliances in your rig will not work or even worse at that voltage. Most are engineered to shut themselves down at low voltage.
Even worse!

Long before the battery won't run the fridge controller, the CO/propane detector will let you know the battery needs charging!
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Old 06-22-2017, 10:40 AM   #13
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I'm about to pull the trigger on a the Renogy 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Foldable Solar Suitcase. Mostly everything I've read about it is great. The one thing that struck me was that it sounds like the controller won't work (thus, the whole unit won't work) unless the battery already has 9 or 10 volts. Rookie question: Is there another component I could use with this panel & controller to charge my battery if it does go below 9-10 volts? I don't plan to get stuck below 10 volts, but if it happens, it would be nice to be able to use the solar to charge, somehow.
Your battery should never be run down below 12 volts. Mine is at 13.7 with a full charge, and has never even hit 12. My brother-in-law uses jumper cables from his TV to charge it when he's out longer than than his 100w solar panel will handle (or the sun doesn't cooperate).

I decided to go with a generator, because for me it's easier than trying to decipher solar tech. If solar connections and equipment were standardized, I might consider it, but as it is right now, the more I read on it the more confusing it becomes. My TT is supposedly prewired for solar, but the connector doesn't fit any panel wiring I've tried. Just stupid as far as I'm concerned. I think that they are just cutting their own throats by not having some sort of standardization. I'm not an electrician, so I'm not going to try and assemble a system from scratch.
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Old 06-22-2017, 11:45 AM   #14
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Your battery should never be run down below 12 volts. Mine is at 13.7 with a full charge, and has never even hit 12. My brother-in-law uses jumper cables from his TV to charge it when he's out longer than than his 100w solar panel will handle (or the sun doesn't cooperate).

I decided to go with a generator, because for me it's easier than trying to decipher solar tech. If solar connections and equipment were standardized, I might consider it, but as it is right now, the more I read on it the more confusing it becomes. My TT is supposedly prewired for solar, but the connector doesn't fit any panel wiring I've tried. Just stupid as far as I'm concerned. I think that they are just cutting their own throats by not having some sort of standardization. I'm not an electrician, so I'm not going to try and assemble a system from scratch.
Pretty much my thinking too. If I was on a seasonal site off grid I might think solar to be worth the effort and $$ but for occasional trips and vacations where power is scarce I go with my H2000i. Easy to recharge or maintain a peak charge with the Honda and fuel cost is minimal as I can get 8 - 10 hours of run time from one fill. A full tank and a 2 1/2 gal red can and I'm good for up to 2 weeks.
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Old 06-22-2017, 02:59 PM   #15
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Pretty much my thinking too. If I was on a seasonal site off grid I might think solar to be worth the effort and $$ but for occasional trips and vacations where power is scarce I go with my H2000i. Easy to recharge or maintain a peak charge with the Honda and fuel cost is minimal as I can get 8 - 10 hours of run time from one fill. A full tank and a 2 1/2 gal red can and I'm good for up to 2 weeks.
Yep... no Honda here - went with a Powerhorse 2000 from Northern Tool, but still a great generator and at $560, right between the cheaper $400 Champion and the $1000 Honda and Yamaha. 52 db on idle and 61 at full load - not silent, but not overly obtrusive when out in the woods with no walls to deflect the sound. I'll only be using it for battery upkeep and maybe for a few minutes around suppertime to nuke our already cooked and frozen meals.

I still have to evaluate how long the battery will go before it needs recharging (so far only 2 trips in our Jay Feather, and both had electrical hookups). I have a monitor so I can watch the voltage and charge up if it gets down to 12v.
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Old 06-22-2017, 03:21 PM   #16
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Thanks all. I've purchased the Renogy Solar Suitcase and will test it out it in a week and a half when we head back to the mountains. I've checked out the pics of your setup, Don. That looks pretty sophisticated. The 'blueprints' you put up are very helpful. I don't think I'll need anything quite like that yet...not wiith my little 16XRB. For now, I'm going to play with this new solar panel and see how it works.
You will want to consider some sort of an extension system for your cables. The Renogy comes with 12' of cable which restricts you heavily when it comes to sun position. The real beauty of the suitcase is that the trailer can set in the shade and your solar panel will still get the job done if you have the flexibility to add an extender. I have 2 sets of 25 ft. 8 gauge cables made up with quick connectors on each end. I normally use one set on each panel but have the ability to connect in series which gives me 62 ft of running cable for getting to sunlight if needed. I rarely use the panels without the extenders. Something to think about!!!
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Old 06-22-2017, 03:21 PM   #17
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I decided to go with a generator, because for me it's easier than trying to decipher solar tech. If solar connections and equipment were standardized, I might consider it, but as it is right now, the more I read on it the more confusing it becomes. My TT is supposedly prewired for solar, but the connector doesn't fit any panel wiring I've tried. Just stupid as far as I'm concerned. I think that they are just cutting their own throats by not having some sort of standardization. I'm not an electrician, so I'm not going to try and assemble a system from scratch.
It can be daunting at first, but if you have enough electrical knowledge and ability to wire up a light or a switch, you can do solar.

But, solar isn't for everyone and won't make sense for everyone.

My decision to use solar is predicated on 1 or 2 week vacations in National Parks without hookups. I started with the generator route, and it worked, but we had to be at camp for the limited generator hours, which didn't always happen. This is what lead us to solar. Now my 200 watts of panels does the work while I am gone. We don't have to be back at the campground. I still bring the generator to use for certain 120 volt needs, but we aren't a slave to it. We don't have an inverter, so it is 12 volt use only and that 200 watts keeps our two 6 volts in good charge. So for my situation, solar works good and reduces stress.

Happy camping!!
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Old 06-22-2017, 03:59 PM   #18
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So true!!!!! In the western states that is particularly true. Having some of both generator and solar gives a lot more flexibility. We were in Kodachrome state park in Utah a couple years ago and with thought we were good because generators were allowed. Turned out you could only run them between noon and 4 PM. At the time we had no solar so we had to move. I really didn't want to be setting around camp in mid afternoon watching a generator run. A little of both is a nice security blanket.
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