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Old 09-13-2011, 09:30 AM   #11
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how ugly it could be if there was freezing and cracking involved!
It is not the freezing that is the problem - it is the thawing!

So another possible option - but not a great one -- so it sounds like there is somewhere around 10 gallons in there. How much antifreeze would it require to protect this -- I am thinking quite a bit. Does antifreeze tend to sink and go down around the valves, float on top, or mix 50/50? It would be pretty expensive, but cheaper than the damage caused by freezing.
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Old 09-13-2011, 01:54 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by tafische View Post
It is not the freezing that is the problem - it is the thawing!

So another possible option - but not a great one -- so it sounds like there is somewhere around 10 gallons in there. How much antifreeze would it require to protect this -- I am thinking quite a bit. Does antifreeze tend to sink and go down around the valves, float on top, or mix 50/50? It would be pretty expensive, but cheaper than the damage caused by freezing.
Assuming you're going to use RV antifreeze, there are two things to consider:

One- RV antifreeze works differently than the automotive variety- it does actually freeze, but doesn't expand so your pipes won't burst. Just ask any RVer that has a refrigerator with an icemaker about making the pink ice cubes when they winterize.

Two: You use RV antifreeze undiluted so I'm not sure how effective it will be mixing it with the current contents of the tank. And since the trailer's not going to be moved, how do you ensure it gets mixed thoroughly.

As for using an automotive antifreeze, again, you'd have to figure how much to use to get it 50/50 and how will you mix it. Also, you'd have to find out what damage, if any, automotive antifreeze might cause to your tank, pipes, valves and seals.
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:13 PM   #13
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As for using an automotive antifreeze
Oh - was not talking about using automotive...just a 50/50 mix of RV to tank water -- but I guess that is a possibility -- but you are right - will it cause other issues? My gut feeling is no, but I am not sure. As long as you dont even think about getting it close to your fresh water lines it would not harm you - BUT - then you have the environmental issue - I dont think you can dump that can you?

I think everyone is in agreement that the best course of action is to go dump, but if that was impossible - what would you do??...none of our other suggestions sound that good, do they?
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Old 09-13-2011, 04:28 PM   #14
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If I could not move the unit for whatever reason I would use my blue tote and haul it to the DS.
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:14 PM   #15
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Nope...it's been decided...it's a far better option to just get the trailer out and get the tanks emptied as opposed to the alternative. Besides, I might just squeeze in one last overnighter at a local campground at the same time. I have a question for those talking about sewer cleanouts, etc...what the heck is that? I'm pretty sure we don't have something like that for our house.
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:32 PM   #16
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A sewer clean out is "T" that is put in the line usually at the property line. If you line is blocked they can go in from the ther end to clear it. You can see a steel grate on top of the service . Mine is about 15 feet in from the road in the middle of my driveway. I've dumped my backwater tank on several occasions down the line. It has come in very handy. I would also caution you on driving with a full black or grey tank. I'm sure your aware of the weight factor.
I am very meticulous about keeping our tanks clean. I am always surprised on how much residue is left in the tank after dumping them out prior to rinsing them. Spend sometime reading the posts on upkeep of your holding tanks. You will find that the effort to keep them clean is well worth it. Don't put yourself in a position where you leave your tanks partially full when you put your tailer in storage. Consider buying a black water spay unit . One popular one is called Tornado. A wand to rinse out the tanks is effective also.
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:45 PM   #17
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When anybody accuses you of not "roughing it" you should remind them that tent campers don't have to deal with emptying and cleaning holding tanks.

Here's what I've done.

Put a 5 gallon bucket under the sewer and pull the gate for a few seconds, then close it. Yes. You will have a bucket of waste. It's no big deal. Carefully walk it to your toilet and dump it in. Flush the toilet for every 2.5 gallons of waste to ensure the solids makes it to the city or septic system. Repeat until the RV is empty.

Then, pour 4 gallons of fresh water back down the RV toilet and drain into the bucket again to ensure that all the solids were flushed out. This is particularly important since you operated the gate valve during the initial dump, you might have pinched in some solid waste there.

If this seems too gross or too involved, then use it as a great excuse to go camping just one more time this year.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:59 PM   #18
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I would sure like to put in a (clean out) at our house but the sewer line is on the wrong side of the house.
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Old 09-17-2011, 06:08 PM   #19
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Problem solved. I managed to get the grey and black holding tanks emptied today. As a matter of fact I got the trailer winterized at the same time. First time winterizing the unit so I had to make sure I remembered everything...drained the HW tank, emptied the low-point drains, holding tanks emptied and RV antifreeze run throughout all of the hot and cold lines including the outside shower. I think I'm good to go.
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